Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
5 vrs 6 step aiders
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


mountainstuss


May 5, 2007, 4:14 PM
Post #1 of 31 (5518 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 123

5 vrs 6 step aiders
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Noob to aid climbing, about to invest in some etriers. Wondering about 5 vrs 6 step aiders. What are the pros and cons and so forth? Which would you recommend? Thanks in advance


jerseyclimber


May 5, 2007, 4:22 PM
Post #2 of 31 (5513 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 5, 2004
Posts: 38

Re: [mountainstuss] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

From the relatively small amount of aiding I've done I can say that I prefer five steps to six. There's less bulk and that's always a good thing when aiding. If the extra length is absolutly needed on a particular move you can simply clip a sling to the bottom step and you'll gain that sixth step. Good luck...but beware....aid is quite addictive!


(This post was edited by jerseyclimber on May 5, 2007, 4:23 PM)


m-earle


May 5, 2007, 4:34 PM
Post #3 of 31 (5502 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2007
Posts: 36

Re: [mountainstuss] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have little aid expirience, but last year i bought a pair of the BD 6 step aiders. i couldn't decide weather to get the 6 or 5, but figured i could cut the last step of my 6's if i didn't find i need them. I am 6' with a long reach, and find that i don't really need the extra step, so i will probably cut them. Keep in mid thuogh, when i do aid climb, it is usually only for a pitch or two inbetween free climbing. if you are looking to do intensive aid routes, where you will be standing in aiders all day, i would go for six. Again, i don't do that much aid so I really don't hold an opinion that you should trust on the subject.

-mason


organika


May 5, 2007, 5:30 PM
Post #4 of 31 (5489 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 25, 2005
Posts: 18

Re: [mountainstuss] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have played with many combos....My personal favorite is a 6 and 5 combo per daisy. I am over 6 foot and having a six step makes it easier for me to get my foot into if i am in the top two steps of the other aiders....it seems this way i can bounce test the next piece from a stable position...but eh..that my .02 anyhow.....speed ladders by yates will be my next purchase......I have a tendency to make a cluster f*** up there.

L


iamthewallress


May 5, 2007, 5:51 PM
Post #5 of 31 (5481 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2003
Posts: 2463

Re: [mountainstuss] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mountainstuss wrote:
Noob to aid climbing, about to invest in some etriers. Wondering about 5 vrs 6 step aiders. What are the pros and cons and so forth? Which would you recommend? Thanks in advance

I recommend LADDERS instead of etriers. Strongly! 5 or 6 step are both fine depending on what you do. 6 step matters most when you're
--really tall
--using a cheat stick
--on something dicey where you need to get real low to bounce.

The longer the ladder, the greater the clusterfuck.

So if you want to do mellow stuff w/ lots of free, smaller can be better.

If you want to do hard stuff, you'll probably end up with an array of different kinds of ladders by the time you get there anyway.

Good luck. Cool


stymingersfink


May 5, 2007, 6:30 PM
Post #6 of 31 (5471 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250

Re: [iamthewallress] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

no matter what, DO NOT CUT YOUR LADDERS DOWN!!!! in an emergency they can be used as a full strength runner, that is, until you have altered them.

I like to run with four aiders, or two pairs.

Each pair consists of a five and a six step etrier. As wallress mentioned, the ladders are preferable to the off-set steps (think Misty or Yates). I have a set of the BD etriers, and one set of the Misty, making two pairs. I have found that I prefer the misty ladders.


giza


May 5, 2007, 7:26 PM
Post #7 of 31 (5449 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2003
Posts: 315

Re: [mountainstuss] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm 6'3" and find that while top-stepping and making reachy moves I wish I had 7 steps instead of 6.... can't imagine having only 5 steps to work with.


stymingersfink


May 5, 2007, 7:31 PM
Post #8 of 31 (5446 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250

Re: [giza] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

clip a 30 or 60cm sling to the bottom step maybe?


majid_sabet


May 5, 2007, 7:37 PM
Post #9 of 31 (5444 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8390

Re: [stymingersfink] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 

[URL=http://imageshack.us]






























[URL=http://imageshack.us]


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on May 5, 2007, 7:58 PM)


mike_ok


May 5, 2007, 8:55 PM
Post #10 of 31 (5421 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 21, 2003
Posts: 345

Re: [majid_sabet] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This picture just never gets old ;-)

I'll second the advice for ladders... (Yates). Also suggest a notchless biner on top (BD positron or Petz Spirit)... makes clipping in and out of the pro much smoother.


Partner pbcowboy77


May 6, 2007, 1:03 AM
Post #11 of 31 (5404 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 8, 2002
Posts: 574

Re: [giza] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I too am 6'3" and I have started using 7 step from Yates. Makes a world of difference when your in your top step. i say deal with the bulk and get the long one's, you won't regret it. But when your either trying to high step into your ladders or want to get lower to bounce test you will regret it.

What I do is use two six step and one floating 7 step to try to keep the bulk down, but I think I'm gonna go back to using four aiders (two six step and two seven step)


Oh and yes, go with the ladders. Way better


Z


desertdude420


May 7, 2007, 5:44 PM
Post #12 of 31 (5299 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 294

Re: [pbcowboy77] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

For a wall setup use two 5 step and two 6 step aiders, rig one of each on each daisey. That way, when you are moving onto the new/highest placement, you have one aider with an extra (low) step. Your next step will be one up from the one the other aider, so using two of the same length is silly Get it? There's only one first/low step, so get one of each on each side. There!

P.S.- Get four separate colors of aiders for obvious reasons!


flamer


May 15, 2007, 4:37 PM
Post #13 of 31 (5155 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: [desertdude420] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Do yourself a favor. Do not buy/use 4 aiders. Learn to do it with 2 aiders and 2 daisy's. It's way faster and way less of a hassle. The system to do it is easy.
...but do use the ladders instead of the etriers.
josh


shimanilami


May 15, 2007, 5:45 PM
Post #14 of 31 (5141 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043

Re: [mountainstuss] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I might as well weigh in, too.

Ladders are preferred. Yates or Misty Mountain.

Make sure that each aider in a "set" has the same spacing between steps. You want to be able to put your feet at the same level for balance, and if your steps don't line up with each other, then you'll always be standing with one foot up higher than the other, which is frustrating.

I like having a 6th step, especially when on traversing, dicey pitches where you want to stay as low as possible. I hadn't considered using a 5-step and 6-step in combination within the same set. I suppose this could reduce tangles (but by how much, really?).


stymingersfink


May 17, 2007, 10:37 PM
Post #15 of 31 (5108 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250

Re: [shimanilami] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

the 5-6 combo makes sense when you think about stepping up into a placement made from one's top step (or near-abouts).

in that, the placement may be made, the ladders/daisy connected, then one might step down a tad to relax a bit for testing. i will perform initial testing with the daisy sometimes, as I can generate a pretty good body-weight bounce with it alone.

having the longer ladder will facilitate getting a foot into the bottom rung, where more elaborate testing may occur, but once I know it's good enough, up i go. since i am now moving up, a pair of 6 steps would be unnecessary, which is why i pair the six with the five.

all of this might highly unnecessary on c1 where a pitch might only take an hour or less, but when you're in the stirrups for 5+ hours of sheer terror, having two pairs of ladders can be key to one's continued comfort. well worth the extra weight and additional CF-management issues, in my book.

i guess it all depends on what you're gonna be getting on. I've tried the 3-ladder system advocated by Ron O.'s video, and that system works fine on easy stuff, but might come up lacking on some more challenging pitches.


flamer


May 18, 2007, 11:27 AM
Post #16 of 31 (5084 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: [stymingersfink] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

stymingersfink wrote:
but when you're in the stirrups for 5+ hours of sheer terror, having two pairs of ladders can be key to one's continued comfort.

...or it could be one of the reason's you're in the stirrups for that long.

josh


climbhigher


May 18, 2007, 6:42 PM
Post #17 of 31 (5047 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 224

Re: [flamer] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Use one 5 step and one 6 step. Bring a 3rd for traverses and roofs or where ever u might need it. Just clip the third aider to the other one when needed. the slight offset is not a problem. Put your wrist through the webbing on top of aider and thumb over it like holding a ski pole if you ski. Get use to climbing your aiders and using rock features even if u use Yates or Metoilus aiders. Fifi in from waist to top biner. Have fun.

Chris.


climbhigher


May 18, 2007, 6:47 PM
Post #18 of 31 (5041 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 224

Re: [climbhigher] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Oh yeah, most aiders are good. I prefer the ladder type steps on top of steps over "etiers" sp? where the steps are offset. I use Mountain Misty's they are kind of like the Yates. I have used BD which are good and Metouilus which are also good.


pmyche


May 19, 2007, 9:24 AM
Post #19 of 31 (5004 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 1160

Post deleted by pmyche [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


climbhigher


May 19, 2007, 5:39 PM
Post #20 of 31 (4978 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 224

Re: [pmyche] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

(putting hand through loop) and above i met to say yates or metoluis daisey's. Actually, Putting hand through loop (After bounce testing that skecthy piece of gear) and climbing your aiders and not cinching up your daiseys saves lots of time and keeps you from getting a forearm pump.

I learned this method in the early 90's from John Middendorf.

I see no problem if the piece blows????

I would like to hear your opinion on this.
And other problems with this method.

One other thing. I found out using the bar on Yates aiders gives me a pump much faster because you are doing assisted one arm pull ups over and over again. My method it's like holding onto a ice axe after a placement.

Cheers,
Chris.


epic_ed


May 21, 2007, 4:49 PM
Post #21 of 31 (4926 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: [climbhigher] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think the question of how many steps is of lesser importance than which style of aider and how many to use. Of course, all of this stuff is personal preference but I couldn't even recall how many steps my ladders have until I looked it up. I could tell you from vivid memory, however, that I much prefer a ladder style to staggered; and out of the ladders on the market I much prefer my Yates stuff than the Moisty Mountain or Metolius ladders I have.

I started out using two-pair of ladders and did it that way for a couple of years and then decided to try less cluster-fuckage to see if it helped speed things up. There was an uncomfortable transition period but I eventually got used to one ladder per daisey, plus a third (Yates Speed Ladder) clipped to the harness just in case -- for traverses or over hangs. After a while that 3rd ladder rarely got used. The benefits of less CF, lighter weight, and increased speed were well worth the time invested to learn a new technique.

YMMV.

Ed


pmyche


May 23, 2007, 12:57 PM
Post #22 of 31 (4853 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 1160

Post deleted by pmyche [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


climbhigher


May 29, 2007, 8:01 PM
Post #23 of 31 (4720 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 224

Re: [pmyche] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hello. . I don't usely bounce test any peices while aid climbing anything A3 and under. I can usely see if the piece is good or not by just looking at it. And when pounding pins I know if it's good just by feel and sound most of the time. I don't cinch up my yates adjustable unless i absolutely have to. They are great for roofs and traverses. And i never use them alone for tying into the anchor with out being tie in with the rope also.
U sound like a experienced fast aid climber. how's your free climbing, ice climbing, and alpine climbing compare?


pmyche


May 30, 2007, 10:47 PM
Post #24 of 31 (4671 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 1160

Post deleted by pmyche [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


climbhigher


Jun 9, 2007, 7:34 AM
Post #25 of 31 (4573 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 224

Re: [pmyche] 5 vrs 6 step aiders [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I found out those six steps are really good when u want to get really low to test that iffy placement. One six step and one five step, Maybe?

Anyways, I am have been extremely busy lately and I am retired from aid climbing for the time being. All focus goes to Work, Diet, Sleep, and Freeclimbing. With a little Basketball and Pool thrown in for concentration during distraction and being consistent. Remind me not to gamble at Pool, Please!!!

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$16.16 (10% off)
$23.36 (10% off)
$21.56 (10% off)
$14.36 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook