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lovesclimbing
May 6, 2007, 5:49 AM
Post #1 of 19
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Registered: Jun 29, 2003
Posts: 551
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Had my first gear fall, broke my foot after 15m, fuck does it hurt, peice that stopped me was the yellow cam.
WHat peice's have stopped you guys?
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stymingersfink
May 6, 2007, 5:54 AM
Post #2 of 19
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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lets see how many i can remember now.
.5 camalot: at least twice, maybe more
.75 camalot: 4 in short order, backed up by a #1 camalot in case things went south. plus a few times other than that day.
#1 Camalot: too many times to remember clearly
00 TCU: couple of times
0 TCU: again, couple of times
1 TCU:once that I can recall
2 TCU:several
blue/black alien hybrid: once
yellow/green alien hybrid: twice
#4 stopper: couple times
#5 stopper: couple times
#3 Lost Arrow: once
#2 Knife Blade: couple times
BD Pecker: 4 times that I recall
#4 stopper: twice
#5 stopper: 3-4 times
bolts: too many times to even think about counting
I'm sure I've missed a few though.
Except for the ice pro. I've never tested that shit. My partner took a whipper on a 16cm screw a couple years ago though. It held.
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on May 6, 2007, 6:21 AM)
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bako_prc
May 6, 2007, 5:57 AM
Post #3 of 19
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Registered: Jul 18, 2006
Posts: 56
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if you really love the cams like you say, i thinks you shoulda used a couple more, at least enough to keep you fom hitting the ground.
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catbird_seat
May 6, 2007, 6:00 AM
Post #4 of 19
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Registered: Apr 7, 2004
Posts: 425
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I've fallen on nuts, pitons, hexes and cams. They are all good. I've never had an injury as severe as yours (knock on wood).
I had one (orange Alien) pull out on me for the first time at Joshua Tree back in December, resulting in a minor injury to my foot. Another cam caught me but with rope stretch, I just barely hit the ground.
My advice to you is to make sure you have enough gear in so that you never rely on a single piece to save your bacon. Also strive to make each placement a good one.
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lovesclimbing
May 6, 2007, 6:02 AM
Post #5 of 19
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Registered: Jun 29, 2003
Posts: 551
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This was on pitch 2/3, the cam was on the red rope and it took most of the force, the blue was on the pin.
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nooyoozer
May 6, 2007, 6:38 AM
Post #6 of 19
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Registered: Sep 20, 2005
Posts: 66
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wow, too many to list, but... it seems like #1 and .75 camalots take the cake, damn thin hands, can't seem to figure them out... also many nut falls, nothing too huge though.
(This post was edited by nooyoozer on May 6, 2007, 6:41 AM)
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climb_eng
May 6, 2007, 6:45 AM
Post #7 of 19
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Registered: Apr 23, 2007
Posts: 1701
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Wow.... where were you climbing???
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tallmark515
May 6, 2007, 2:45 PM
Post #8 of 19
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Registered: Oct 2, 2006
Posts: 281
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old style dual stem .75 camalot backed up by an overcammed (can't remember size) old style baby friend (yellow), held my 40 footer at red rocks.
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petsfed
May 6, 2007, 3:03 PM
Post #9 of 19
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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I'm a big fan of the #2, but it just gets used a lot.
Anybody know the best way to keep the trigger wires on camalots from coming unhooked (not a swage blowing out, it just came undone from the plastic trigger)? I had one do that to me last week. Fortunately the climbing was easy, but the nut I threw in instead wouldn't have held.
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holdplease2
May 6, 2007, 3:07 PM
Post #10 of 19
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Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
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First trad fall - Red DMM
Second, a #3 RP (Stupid)
Yellow alien
Yellow camalot - same fall twice
Green alien
Black alien
Blue alien
Yellow alien again
Red DMM stopper (Booty stopper)
Red Link Cam
Red Alien (most recent)
A few "takes" not included, but the gear appreciated all the same.
That may cover all of my trad/aid falls to date.
-Kate.
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dontmaytagme
May 6, 2007, 4:25 PM
Post #11 of 19
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Registered: Jun 1, 2003
Posts: 224
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nooyoozer wrote: wow, too many to list, but... it seems like #1 and .75 camalots take the cake, damn thin hands, can't seem to figure them out... also many nut falls, nothing too huge though.
Which can quickly translate to a good batch of booty gear.. those pesky thin hands ;p
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theirishman
May 6, 2007, 4:52 PM
Post #12 of 19
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Registered: Aug 17, 2005
Posts: 169
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i love camalots but i dont love the weight and price of them, but the one C4 i will have on my rack always and for ever is a #1 ive place that to many times to count
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trebork2
Deleted
May 6, 2007, 5:56 PM
Post #13 of 19
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Camalots are the sh*t and always will be. My favorite is the #3. That thing has saved my life too many times to count.
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rcnc21
May 6, 2007, 6:04 PM
Post #14 of 19
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Registered: Jun 13, 2004
Posts: 71
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.75,#1,#2,#3 Camalots
#10 Stopper
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lovesclimbing
May 6, 2007, 6:28 PM
Post #15 of 19
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Registered: Jun 29, 2003
Posts: 551
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I fell on Yam doing a varation of Gollum groves, its a good route but I left a cam and 2 draws on the route, I wanted to head back up but after I relized I was hurt we headed down. It was a long walk out though, about 3.5 hours compared to the 30-45min 
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vegastradguy
May 7, 2007, 3:15 PM
Post #16 of 19
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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Lemme see...
#3 camalot- once
#1 camalot- once- onto two lobes..yeah, that was fun.
#7 HB Stopper- at least three times now (i love that stopper!)
Yellow Alien- once
Red C3- once
Bolts- lots, although probably less than a couple of dozen still....
(This post was edited by vegastradguy on May 13, 2007, 6:25 PM)
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lovesclimbing
May 7, 2007, 5:26 PM
Post #17 of 19
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Registered: Jun 29, 2003
Posts: 551
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I cant say that I have ever counted falls on bolts, I remember on climb in which I was just about to pull over the roof to the anchors lost her, dont know how mush slack my brother had but I met him just off the ground up in Jasper (younger brothers!?!  )
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johnathon78
May 8, 2007, 8:18 PM
Post #18 of 19
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Registered: Jul 30, 2004
Posts: 340
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blue tcu..
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tradrenn
May 18, 2007, 2:19 AM
Post #19 of 19
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
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.4 C4 last Sunday, I love that little bugger.
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