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bluesmusic
May 10, 2007, 6:34 AM
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So i've come across 3 different instances now of hearing climbers talk about once they could do a one arm pull up on a door jam their climbing ability drastically improved.
I know it sounds a little silly, its basically like saying "once I was capable of doing things drastically stronger I became a drastically stronger climber!"
but all these individuals went out of their way to do the one arm pull up on a door frame and from that point on they climbed much stronger.
it really is a crucial breaking point being able topull your body through like that.
What confuses me is why climbers don't make that same kind of effort with slopers and pinches, i know some of the reasons...
1. slopers aren't on door frames (architecturally awkward)
2. slopers and pinches don't tend to be the kind of things you can even do a one arm on (e.g slab, squeezing arête, et al.)
3. crimpers are more ubiquitously liked
even if people spend much more time on crimpers, it tends to be WAAAAY more time spent training on crimpers.
oh well... insights? responses?
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nooyoozer
May 10, 2007, 7:11 AM
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i try to get out and traverse my roofline as much as possible. it's about 45 degrees and the grit of the shingles makes you stick nicely. it's hard, and I'm glad my house is only one story. i guess it's just a lot easier to find crimpers around the house, thus you spend more time on them. i don't know.... what was the question?
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climbsomething
May 10, 2007, 7:27 AM
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In reply to: ...What confuses me is why climbers don't make that same kind of effort with slopers and pinches...
*titters like Beavis and/or Butthead*
huh huh. I said titters.
Titters.
.......
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camerona91
May 10, 2007, 8:47 AM
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Crimper is to door jam as sloper is to BREAST.
I can't believe no one has pointed out the obvious yet. All you need to do is get out more, get a girlfriend, enjoy her charms and then you will be a master of both slopers and pinches!
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bluesmusic
May 10, 2007, 9:36 AM
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i'm not entirely sure if i even had a question
rambling is more like it.
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caughtinside
May 10, 2007, 4:20 PM
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bluesmusic wrote: What confuses me is why climbers don't make that same kind of effort with slopers and pinches
Oh, believe me, the effort is being made.
Wait, are we still talking about rock climbing?
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sevrdhed
May 10, 2007, 4:23 PM
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Were we ever talking about rock climbing?
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trenchdigger
May 10, 2007, 4:24 PM
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bluesmusic wrote: Crimper is to door jam as sloper is to...
(This post was edited by trenchdigger on May 10, 2007, 4:25 PM)
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mturner
May 10, 2007, 4:27 PM
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bluesmusic wrote: What confuses me is why climbers don't make that same kind of effort with slopers and pinches,
Along with your listed reasons, I would argue that there are more edges than pinches and slopers outside and thus training your crimp strength would be most beneficial. Likewise, if you can learn to train edges open handed you also strengthen your sloper power.
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gunkiemike
May 12, 2007, 11:15 AM
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hosh wrote: bluesmusic wrote: I know it sounds a little silly, its basically like saying "once I was capable of doing things drastically stronger I became a drastically stronger climber!" So once I got better at golf, my golf game improved a lot. When I started running faster, I cut some time off my mile... I see what you're saying... I like that you point out the obvious. My wife and I had a chuckle and started trying to think of other tautonymous statements. hosh.
One that irked me years ago was when a (generally respected) running magazine suggested that runners focus more on stride length than turnover rate, because "studies have shown that the main difference between average marathoners and elite marathoners isn't turnover rate, but DISTANCE COVERED PER STRIDE".
Duh!
Back on topic... crimper is to trad route as sloper is to boulder problem, so who cares.
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petsfed
May 12, 2007, 2:07 PM
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camerona91 wrote: Crimper is to door jam as sloper is to BREAST. I can't believe no one has pointed out the obvious yet. All you need to do is get out more, get a girlfriend, enjoy her charms and then you will be a master of both slopers and pinches!
See, I was gonna go one lower and say UR MOM. I figure if you're gonna aim low, you may as well shoot for dirt.
(This post was edited by petsfed on May 12, 2007, 2:08 PM)
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musicman1586
May 12, 2007, 5:34 PM
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mturner wrote: Along with your listed reasons, I would argue that there are more edges than pinches and slopers outside and thus training your crimp strength would be most beneficial. Likewise, if you can learn to train edges open handed you also strengthen your sloper power.
I'd say that depends where your climbing; places like Font and Castle Hill are notorious for containing a majority of slopers.
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climbsomething
May 12, 2007, 8:36 PM
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Aww, some people are giving serious answers.
*blows raspberries*
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curt
May 13, 2007, 1:34 AM
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climbsomething wrote: Aww, some people are giving serious answers. *blows raspberries*
Yeah--enough of that. SHOW US YOUR SLOPERS....
Curt
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builttospill
May 15, 2007, 9:44 PM
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gunkiemike wrote: hosh wrote: bluesmusic wrote: I know it sounds a little silly, its basically like saying "once I was capable of doing things drastically stronger I became a drastically stronger climber!" So once I got better at golf, my golf game improved a lot. When I started running faster, I cut some time off my mile... I see what you're saying... I like that you point out the obvious. My wife and I had a chuckle and started trying to think of other tautonymous statements. hosh. One that irked me years ago was when a (generally respected) running magazine suggested that runners focus more on stride length than turnover rate, because "studies have shown that the main difference between average marathoners and elite marathoners isn't turnover rate, but DISTANCE COVERED PER STRIDE". Duh! Back on topic... crimper is to trad route as sloper is to boulder problem, so who cares.
Especially dumb when you consider that almost all runners average between 80 and 90 strides per minute and it doesn't change based on pace.
Let me guess.....runner's world? Fucking idiots.
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chossmonkey
May 17, 2007, 2:05 PM
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petsfed wrote: camerona91 wrote: Crimper is to door jam as sloper is to BREAST. I can't believe no one has pointed out the obvious yet. All you need to do is get out more, get a girlfriend, enjoy her charms and then you will be a master of both slopers and pinches! See, I was gonna go one lower and say UR MOM. I figure if you're gonna aim low, you may as well shoot for dirt.
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Josiah718
Jun 4, 2007, 2:38 AM
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i was going to say that but i figured i would check if any 1 had already so i didnt look like a complete douche.
Crimp is to door jam as sloper is to BOOB. 
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olive
Jul 7, 2007, 5:14 PM
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camerona91 wrote: Crimper is to door jam as sloper is to BREAST. I can't believe no one has pointed out the obvious yet. All you need to do is get out more, get a girlfriend, enjoy her charms and then you will be a master of both slopers and pinches!
Damn. Does that mean that I have to become a lesbian to be a stronger climber?
Or do butts work too?
(This post was edited by olive on Jul 7, 2007, 5:14 PM)
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chossmonkey
Jul 9, 2007, 5:31 PM
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olive wrote: camerona91 wrote: Crimper is to door jam as sloper is to BREAST. I can't believe no one has pointed out the obvious yet. All you need to do is get out more, get a girlfriend, enjoy her charms and then you will be a master of both slopers and pinches! Damn. Does that mean that I have to become a lesbian to be a stronger climber? Or do butts work too?
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bmwman91
Jul 9, 2007, 9:32 PM
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trenchdigger wrote: bluesmusic wrote: Crimper is to door jam as sloper is to... 4" (or larger) PVC mounted horzontally coated with sandpaper of the grit of your choice
Excellent idea! Sounds like my next little project.
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blakegt
Jul 10, 2007, 9:19 PM
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There is an 8" Steel pipe at the bottom of the stairwell in my building that works pretty well
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