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bob_54b
Apr 18, 2007, 6:32 PM
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If you're most likely going to die if you fall, then you're free soloing.
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flamer
Apr 18, 2007, 7:45 PM
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thomasribiere wrote: A freesolo would be the free ascent of an equipped route or route known to be equipped to be climbed. It's not a matter of height but a matter of "tradition" on the said "problem/route". So a route put up onsight freesolo on thye first ascent is a boulder problem? I find fault in that logic. josh
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spceal_ed
Apr 18, 2007, 8:37 PM
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CONDRO wrote: notapplicable wrote: CONDRO wrote: Could someone go around freesoloing 5.6s? You could try but if you push that hard for long youv got a death wish. Haha, that's why I asked. At what level is it cool? Why do people do it? and how many people have been seriously injured or died failing? If being "cool" is your reason to solo then you're going to die. Don't take that as an attack against you it is just my opinion.
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CONDRO
Apr 18, 2007, 8:51 PM
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totally not taken that way at all. I have no ambition to freesolo (at least at this point in my climbing), but I find it very interesting. It seems like a mad way to show of how confident you are, but the confident know they don't need to show it off. So that is why I am inquiring as to what drives people to freesolo?
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ylfoo
Apr 19, 2007, 12:50 AM
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I will not dare to think about it...
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cintune
Apr 19, 2007, 1:43 AM
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CONDRO wrote: So that is why I am inquiring as to what drives people to freesolo? Not having a rope.
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rexusmaximus
Apr 19, 2007, 1:54 AM
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well im usally a mountain project guy but i had to get in on this one. ill try not to rant like micheal reardon,but i see it like this, to me free soloing is a understanding of your own limits, knowing your body and mind and being connected, knowing your strenghth and health, not confidence not ego, its a personal thing, have you ever been out climbing by yourself no people, no music, and climbing , focusing on your breath, your movements , not stopping to think and place gear, no cams no draws, just flowing, staying on the wall awhile, quiting your mind, suddenly small dinks become huge, when your connected, your mind some how stops telling you body to send lactic acid to your arms, pumping out stops, you breath and you find a place that, if i have to explain any more you might not understand, i dont solo every day , i rarley do, only when you know your centered, and i dont solo super hard routes, and often i like to just traverse a long wall going from10-30 feet up just feeling it, if your do do it for other reasons.. sa la vie ...rex |
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angry
Apr 19, 2007, 1:54 AM
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CONDRO wrote: It seems like a mad way to show of how confident you are, but the confident know they don't need to show it off. So that is why I am inquiring as to what drives people to freesolo? You are right, kindof. I freesolo as an expression of what I know and the confidence in the skills I've learned and the strength I've gained. All the showing off is done to myself, no-one else. 5.6 is technically a freesolo, but it's not the same. 5.10 and 5.11, Multi-pitch, sandbagged OW's, overhanging cracks etc... you are going beyond the whole "it's easy" bit and entering into the "I intamately trust myself" thing. It's very different. Now I don't suggest that you go freesolo but at the same time, I know that no-one can take the routes I've freesoloed away from me.
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notapplicable
Apr 19, 2007, 3:10 AM
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CONDRO wrote: notapplicable wrote: CONDRO wrote: Could someone go around freesoloing 5.6s? You could try but if you push that hard for long youv got a death wish. Haha, that's why I asked. At what level is it cool? Why do people do it? and how many people have been seriously injured or died failing? Huhh, wait, you know I was kidding right? If you cannot solo .6's with ease and confidence I dont recommend soloing. You could easily get off route on to or have to down climb something 5.6 or harder while soloing 5.2. As to why people solo. Well its hard to put it into words that do it justice but it can be a revelatory and sublime experience that is not quite like anything else I have found in this world. Also there is something very liberating in opting to engage your self in and activity with a margin for error of 0%. [Edited for clarity]
(This post was edited by notapplicable on Apr 19, 2007, 3:11 AM)
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petsfed
Apr 19, 2007, 3:54 AM
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sparky wrote: flamer wrote: 30 feet is the death zone. You could get killed from falls below that point, but you'd have to be very lucky to survive a fall above it. josh I'd say 30 feet as well. Above 30' you'll probably die or wish you had. I think you hit the ground at about 45 mph from that level, and it aint gunna tickle. At 30 feet, you'll hit the ground at around 30 mph. At 45, you're doing 35.
(This post was edited by petsfed on Apr 19, 2007, 3:55 AM)
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petsfed
Apr 19, 2007, 3:57 AM
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notapplicable wrote: As to why people solo. Well its hard to put it into words that do it justice but it can be a revelatory and sublime experience that is not quite like anything else I have found in this world. Also there is something very liberating in opting to engage your self in and activity with a margin for error of 0%. The end goal is a moving meditation type experience.
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flamer
Apr 19, 2007, 3:59 AM
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rexusmaximus wrote: i see it like this, to me free soloing is a understanding of your own limits, knowing your body and mind and being connected, knowing your strenghth and health, not confidence not ego, its a personal thing, have you ever been out climbing by yourself no people, no music, and climbing , focusing on your breath, your movements , not stopping to think and place gear, no cams no draws, just flowing, staying on the wall awhile, quiting your mind, suddenly small dinks become huge, when your connected, Very well said...you've clearly been there. josh
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medicus
Apr 19, 2007, 4:28 AM
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If you have to ask at what level is freesoloing cool, I suggest not trying to freesolo. To me, that would be doing it for all the wrong reasons. But again, to each his own I guess. hmmm, didn't notice there was a second page already... others seem to have said that way before I said that. Sorry.
(This post was edited by medicus on Apr 19, 2007, 4:30 AM)
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notapplicable
Apr 19, 2007, 12:00 PM
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petsfed wrote: notapplicable wrote: As to why people solo. Well its hard to put it into words that do it justice but it can be a revelatory and sublime experience that is not quite like anything else I have found in this world. Also there is something very liberating in opting to engage your self in and activity with a margin for error of 0%. The end goal is a moving meditation type experience. Yep, you said it better in 9 words than I did in 40 some odd.
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petsfed
Apr 19, 2007, 5:00 PM
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The really good climbers are the ones who can hit that moving meditation phase with or without a rope, so soloing just becomes about reaching that point faster. We've all been there. That moment when you're on complete autopilot but still focussed 100% on what you're doing. Could be on a really easy route, could be on the hardest thing you've ever done, but the point is that your brain is completely focussed on the task at hand and you are completely in the moment, which is the end goal of the meditation practices to which I've been exposed. Soloing requires that you be in that mode for the entire climb, whereas some situations on rope don't require that of you.
(This post was edited by petsfed on Apr 19, 2007, 5:02 PM)
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vaultman
May 11, 2007, 11:15 PM
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In reply to: sparky wrote: flamer wrote: 30 feet is the death zone. You could get killed from falls below that point, but you'd have to be very lucky to survive a fall above it. josh I'd say 30 feet as well. Above 30' you'll probably die or wish you had. I think you hit the ground at about 45 mph from that level, and it aint gunna tickle. amen to that. youtube: lovers leap. dumbass freesolo on a five three route. guy actually does a double handed dyno while some hundreds feet up. makes it, but dies later doing the same route. moral: if you have to freesolo, dont be that guy.
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ridgeclimber
May 12, 2007, 12:13 AM
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Dude first of all that was a 5.7. Second of all that was Dan Osman, undoubtedly one of the most badass people people ever to set foot on this earth. Third of all he died on a rope jump not soloing. Moral: just because someone does dangerous things doesn't make them a dumbass or give you any right to disrespect them.
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deadhorse
May 17, 2007, 2:26 AM
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yea seriously, i'm not one to flame- but you HAVE to give Osman MAD props for that (even though it is one of his EASIEST FS's) because it was like a >3 pitch route, and he did it in less time than (i'll bet) anyone else has done a single one of its pitches in. But to stick to the query, i've been thinking about this alot lately. The definition of calling it a route if the FA was on gear/TR doesn't cut it, e.g. Glass Plus, Hueco- was a 5.12 or 13 when someone (fryberger?) bouldered it, thinknig he got the FA. (edit: it was a TR route, but he thought he had the first FA altogether, and he bouldered it.) I think if you're in the "danger zone" without pads, or spotters, youre FS. As for easy free solos, I recently did a 40 foot 5.4 free solo. Yeah, it's not very cool, and certainly not an impressive send. I could have done it with a martini in hand, however, it was crossing a threshold no less, and to be real, it's the most fun i have ever had on that route, and quite a great feeling. Some of the warmup classics can become alot more 'spicy' when you consider them as freesolo temptations. You've got to start somewhere, right?
(This post was edited by deadhorse on May 17, 2007, 8:33 AM)
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angry
May 17, 2007, 3:02 AM
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n00b, the culling line is getting long and we're all busy, can you just cull yourself?
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limeydave
May 17, 2007, 11:53 AM
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Pick up Urban Climber for this month - the Michael Reardon article will give you a lot of info. Also get a copy of the Front Range Freaks DVD, Derrek Hersey was a legend "Ay up punter!" I get choked up watching that part... Hopefully this will help you understand it's a very personal thing that these people do - cool doesn't come into it. Sadly dead often does.
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bdplayer
May 17, 2007, 12:39 PM
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deadhorse wrote: As for easy free solos, I recently did a 40 foot 5.4 free solo. Yeah, it's not very cool, and certainly not an impressive send. I could have done it with a martini in hand, however, it was crossing a threshold no less, and to be real, it's the most fun i have ever had on that route, and quite a great feeling. Some of the warmup classics can become alot more 'spicy' when you consider them as freesolo temptations. You've got to start somewhere, right? Very true. I'm not quite at the point where I can free solo with martini in my hand, but I want to work up to it. For now, maybe a beer?
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microbarn
May 17, 2007, 1:26 PM
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deadhorse wrote: You've got to start somewhere, right? no, no you don't ever have to start freesoloing.
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deadhorse
May 17, 2007, 8:27 PM
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microbarn wrote: deadhorse wrote: You've got to start somewhere, right? no, no you don't ever have to start freesoloing. haha the way i wrote it your right, you dont ever HAVE to start. some of the most impressive FS sends to me are the mulitpitch climbs bachar and reardon so frequently rock. for anyone still doubting power of freesolo watch deanpotter's solo of 'heaven'. the feeling he has at the end is visibly priceless. He rehearses those on lead first, right?
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notapplicable
May 18, 2007, 1:06 AM
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deadhorse wrote: microbarn wrote: deadhorse wrote: You've got to start somewhere, right? no, no you don't ever have to start freesoloing. haha the way i wrote it your right, you dont ever HAVE to start. some of the most impressive FS sends to me are the mulitpitch climbs bachar and reardon so frequently rock. for anyone still doubting power of freesolo watch deanpotter's solo of 'heaven'. the feeling he has at the end is visibly priceless. He rehearses those on lead first, right? Yeah they are often rehearsed but that doesnt do much if anything to take away from the experience. Prior knowledge of the route can give you the confidence to commit to the climb but once your in the thick of it if your not 100% comfortable (rehearsed or onsite) your serious trouble.
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