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avk
May 15, 2007, 3:33 AM
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Registered: Oct 28, 2003
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hi,
i left 3 quickdraws at sundance route pitch 3/last at suicide rock. i got a little higher at the traverse toward the anchor but i thought i was home free (5-6 feet to the left of anchor)on 5.6 section. that's when i slipped on lichen covered rock and tumbled down to the beginning of the pitch, almost 100 ft fall. luckily i walked away with only possibly a small fracture on my rt hand, bruises, scratches, and feeling like a sack of potatos tossed down 100 ft. yes, very sore but well considering.
anyone retrieve the quickdraws, please pm me. i'm also curious to see the condition of the quickdraw since the rope was cut. luckily not completely of course, otherwise i wouldn't be here. my partner's hand suffered a rope burn because he tried to take in as much rope as he could. he was using atc and it's not a thin rope (10.2 or 11 mm). i weight about 118 lbs. i had a helmet on and glad i did because i did hit my head (and everything else) on the way down. the bolts are run outs.
i hope my experience will benefits others.
1. be careful when you suddenly see lichens on your way, you may be off route. they are more sliperry than may appear.
2. if you're bolting, you may not want to run it out. goes the same with gear placement. because you never know.
3. helmet is good and gri-gri can be a good idea too since i don't know if everyone would be able to hold on to the rope if the rope cut their hand, or finger got sucked into atc, or the falling climber or rock hit the belayer and knock them unconcious.
sorry in advance i wont be able to reply too much since im typing w/ one finger.
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trenchdigger
May 15, 2007, 3:53 AM
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Damn, Angelina. Thought that might be you when we saw the note. My partner and I ran up and did Serpentine on Saturday. We got to the trailhead at 6:20pm and practically ran up the trail then up the route to finish before dark. We heard voices - likely yours - on our way down the trail. Wish we'd have known what was going on so we could help out.
On Sunday we saw the note and were going to do the route (it was on the agenda anyway) but it was too late in the day by the time we got around to that side of the rock. The note was still there on Sunday afternoon, so I'm guessing nobody did the route after you.
Hope you get your draws back. I can't imagine anyone would want your bright pink spraypainted draws anyway! 
Get well...
~Adam~
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jt512
May 15, 2007, 4:04 AM
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avk wrote: hi, i left 3 quickdraws at sundance route pitch 3/last at suicide rock. i hope my experience will benefits others. 2. if you're bolting, you may not want to run it out. goes the same with gear placement. because you never know.
I hope your experience will benefit you. You were on a bolted trad route; not a sport route. Do you understand the difference?
Jay
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socalbolter
May 15, 2007, 4:11 AM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2002
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Glad to hear you weren't hurt worse.
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ladysmith
May 18, 2007, 10:30 PM
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Oh angel, I am so glad you weren't seriously injured. Most of us scramble around and do long runouts hoping that one day we don't accidentally slip. Thanks for sharing your story; it is a good reminder that even when the "climb" is over, we still need to remain focused until we are clipped!
Jay- Please correct me if I am mistaken, but your comment came across as being rude. Angel is a very strong, competent, and safe climber with years of trad climbing experience. She took a fall that could of happened to any of us. There is always more to learn from other people's mistakes and experiences.
Cheers and happy (safe) climbing....
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paulc
May 18, 2007, 10:47 PM
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Don't mind Jay, he's just jaded. (no offence, man). He has a point, but isn't making it in the best manner.
I completely agree, sometimes you get to the top and sometimes you don't, that doesn't mean that you are a noob. Somethings in this life are out of our control and if you decide to be possibly in harm's way, you may well get run over.
Glad you (OP) are going to be ok. Get well soon.
Paul
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majid_sabet
May 18, 2007, 11:37 PM
Post #7 of 17
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OP, lucky you for a 100 footer
Can you post few images from your so called damaged rope (broken section) and how far was it from your harness or ATC ?
Thanks
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notapplicable
May 19, 2007, 12:02 AM
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100 ft. !! Thats on hell of a bomb, being able to walk away was very lucky. Glad you are ok
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notapplicable
May 19, 2007, 12:07 AM
Post #9 of 17
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majid_sabet wrote: OP, lucky you for a 100 footer Can you post few images from your so called damaged rope (broken section) and how far was it from your harness or ATC ? Thanks
"so called"
Nice attitude jack ass, we arent investigating possible gear failure here. This girl just bounced down 100 ft. of rock, I can see more than one way the rope could have been damaged.
I'm also curious to see the damaged rope but not for the same reason as Majid. If you get the time please post one.
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avk
May 31, 2007, 6:07 AM
Post #10 of 17
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Registered: Oct 28, 2003
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After looking at the location of the cut, it can't be the top binner/quickdraw that cut the rope. It is about exactly half way mark. It could be the next bolt down (2nd bolt).
(sorry i don't know how to post pictures so i just attached the pictures here)
(This post was edited by avk on May 31, 2007, 6:18 AM)
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DSCN1615.JPG
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DSCN1616.JPG
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DSCN1617.JPG
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jumpingrock
Jun 1, 2007, 9:53 PM
Post #11 of 17
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Nice rope. Glad you're ok :-) You still have a ton of rope left to cut through there it seems to me but still a close shave.
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jdouble
Jun 1, 2007, 10:51 PM
Post #12 of 17
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Registered: Jun 15, 2004
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Glad to hear you are OK!
Are you sure you were on the third pitch of Sundance? Sounds like Sundike, but my memory is not all that good..............
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avk
Jun 2, 2007, 12:46 AM
Post #13 of 17
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Registered: Oct 28, 2003
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thanks all.
i guess it may be Sundike finish after reading its description. there were only 3 bolts though instead of 4 per topo.
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ja1484
Jun 2, 2007, 2:40 AM
Post #14 of 17
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Registered: Aug 11, 2006
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jt512 wrote: avk wrote: hi, i left 3 quickdraws at sundance route pitch 3/last at suicide rock. i hope my experience will benefits others. 2. if you're bolting, you may not want to run it out. goes the same with gear placement. because you never know. I hope your experience will benefit you. You were on a bolted trad route; not a sport route. Do you understand the difference? Jay
Regardless of whether or not everyone agrees with Jay's attitude, he's making a valuable point for any n00bs that may be watching/reading.
Trad bolts ain't sport bolts. They're typically placed on lead, not on rap, and that means bolts at good stances and usually unprotected crux moves (unless you can get a gear placement, and even then, who wants to stop in the middle of the crux to fiddle with nuts?).
Furthermore, if a bolt *is* placed on a trad route, it typically is done because protection is scarce or non-existent over a large section of rock. You should be prepared for longer runouts and larger than average fall potential and everything that comes with both of those.
Suffice it to say, inexperienced leaders shouldn't be messing with this stuff. Being able to pull down hard is nice, but keeping a cool head and knowing when to back off is just as important a skill in this situation.
Remember: The trad mantra used to be, and to many people still is - The Leader Must Not Fall.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Jun 2, 2007, 2:42 AM)
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majid_sabet
Jun 4, 2007, 7:19 AM
Post #15 of 17
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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Op
Check the red mark for me and let me know if the has any burning sign. I can see you rope was damaged due to sudden heat But I want to 100% sure
Thanks
[URL=http://imageshack.us]
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avk
Jun 21, 2007, 9:50 PM
Post #16 of 17
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Registered: Oct 28, 2003
Posts: 34
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yes, it has melted (burning) sign.
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wolfski
Jun 25, 2007, 1:25 AM
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Registered: May 12, 2007
Posts: 41
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thats the same rope i use, maxim right?
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