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trad climbing in lumpy ridge
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biscuits


May 17, 2007, 8:14 PM
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trad climbing in lumpy ridge
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Im moving to estes park co from nc and am looking for feedback on the climbing at lumpy ridge. is route finding hard b/c it looks like theres so many cracks that one could get lost and what are some classics in the .7 .8 range. and are there any good sport or tr ares in the .10 or .11 range.


shaggyj


May 17, 2007, 8:27 PM
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Re: [biscuits] trad climbing in lumpy ridge [In reply to]
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Can't get lost with a good guide book. It may take you a few trips to the crag to get you bearings right.

Classics in the 7 & 8 range.

white whale, hitaus, and everything in the left book area is easy.

Melvin's wheel and Pear buttress are absolutely fantastic in the 8 range.

As far as TRs go..... You could TR loose ends & backflip and quite a few routes on the twin owls

Senseless Meaning
Thin Crack
Alignment of the Misaligned
Black Lichen Streak

Check out mountain project


biscuits


May 17, 2007, 8:36 PM
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Re: [shaggyj] trad climbing in lumpy ridge [In reply to]
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thanks, ill check them out.
cant wait i get there in a couple weeks
what about gear iv got a set of stoppers, c3#00,0,1 camolot.3,.4(2),.5(2),.75(2),1,2,3.3.5 and tricams in pink(2) red(2) brown(2) and blue. is there any other "must have" gear for that area?


reno


May 18, 2007, 7:36 AM
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Re: [biscuits] trad climbing in lumpy ridge [In reply to]
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biscuits wrote:
is there any other "must have" gear for that area?

Lots of long slings.


shaggyj


May 18, 2007, 8:00 AM
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Re: [biscuits] trad climbing in lumpy ridge [In reply to]
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Must Haves.... I've seen people lead HARD routes at lumpy with nothing more than 2 sets of stoppers. So I never think about must have gear.

Most of lumpy is flared, but will take standard BD SLCD easily. Your tri cams are helpful depending on how hard you are climbing and your ability to place them one handed on difficult terrain. I climb with doubles in BD .75, 1, 2 and find that I'll always find a place for them.


jpdreamer


Jun 11, 2007, 12:18 AM
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Re: [biscuits] trad climbing in lumpy ridge [In reply to]
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The only climb I've done there was Batman and Robin pinnacle. pretty easy route, but the last pitch was pretty cool (just because it goes at such a moderate grade), and on the top of the pinnacle there were some fish like things swimming in the rainwater puddles, cool to see and wonder about how in the world they got up there.


wilcox510


Jun 13, 2007, 8:47 AM
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Re: [biscuits] trad climbing in lumpy ridge [In reply to]
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My favorites include White Wale 5.7, Hiatus 5.7,
Melvins wheel 5.8-5.8+, Pear Buttress 5.8+, Grapevine 5.8+. There are tons of great moderates there, but I think Lumpy really starts to shine in the 5.9 range.

For sport climbing or toproping the Ironclads near Allenspark have some fun options. The Monastery which is sort of by Drake or Glenhaven (cant remember) is a bit of a hike in for sport climbing standards (maybe 45-60 minutes? its been a while) but is really fun.

I spent 4 years there, I miss it a ton. Amazing place! Enjoy!


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