|
jakedatc
May 26, 2007, 10:43 PM
Post #19176 of 22774
(11509 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Yea.. that was the other day on the beach.. very far from the climbing part of the park.
|
|
|
|
|
nurocks
May 27, 2007, 6:21 AM
Post #19178 of 22774
(11499 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
I'm not sure which hasn't happened most recently. me climbing, or me posting here. Anyway, I thought I let anyone who wanted to know (Jake, Chad, Rob et. al.) that am almost done with school.
I've taken a job as a staff geologist for Roux Associates in Burlington MA. I start the first week in July. So once I figure out where I'm going to be living, and learn what my actual work schedule is, I'll probably be looking to get back out on some rock. (I can't wait to get out of the land of weak, friable, cretateous limestone)
Well PM if want to. I'll probably start showing up at QQ and trying to carpool to Rumney by the end of July.
Later,
Jason
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
May 27, 2007, 6:57 AM
Post #19179 of 22774
(11507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Jason.. you should try to make it to the rumney gathering at the end of june man.. Congrats on the new job and the new letters after your name.. well done.
Old E (or anyone else familiar with w.mass).. can you PM me any beta for climbing in the very close vicinity of Northampton? generally moderate would be nice since it'll be more of a play day wed. before rumney next weekend
|
|
|
|
|
nurocks
May 28, 2007, 5:59 PM
Post #19181 of 22774
(11473 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
I'm not sure if there is a little sarcasm in that reply, or if it's dripping.
BTW, I haven't looked at igneous or metamorphics in about 2 years. So you won't been hearing too much from me about them.
Also, if you were being uber sarcastic. I have a question for ya, what is the return on a $20.00 investment over 2.5 years? At 5% simple compounding interest, I believe it comes out to $22.60.
Either way, I'm going to try and find some motivation and get some writing done.
Later,
Jason
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
May 28, 2007, 6:47 PM
Post #19182 of 22774
(11471 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
nurocks wrote: I'm not sure if there is a little sarcasm in that reply, or if it's dripping. BTW, I haven't looked at igneous or metamorphics in about 2 years. So you won't been hearing too much from me about them. Also, if you were being uber sarcastic. I have a question for ya, what is the return on a $20.00 investment over 2.5 years? At 5% simple compounding interest, I believe it comes out to $22.60. Either way, I'm going to try and find some motivation and get some writing done. Later, Jason
Looks like you may beat me back to New England. But we're still gunna have to climb in 2 timezones sometime.
-Jeff
|
|
|
|
|
wideguy
May 28, 2007, 10:53 PM
Post #19183 of 22774
(11461 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 15045
|
Jason, it was all meant in jest man.
And only 5 points, a deal at twice that. I'm good for it.
|
|
|
|
|
nurocks
May 28, 2007, 11:37 PM
Post #19184 of 22774
(11455 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
Hey Jeff, I may beat you back to the Northeast, but you are beating me out of Texas...and that is a race I'd much rather win. Have fun on your road trip.
Figured as much Chad. At this point, I'd pay you 10-50 times that to write my thesis for me. I'm sick of worrying about statistical significance and abnormally distributed sample sets. WTF. Beer thirty is fast approaching.
Later,
Jason
|
|
|
|
|
wideguy
May 29, 2007, 12:02 AM
Post #19185 of 22774
(11449 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 15045
|
Jason, that'd be a totally fair compromise. Except if I wrote your thesis your review would read it and wonder if you had been sniffing glue the last 3 years..
"see, there are , like, alot of differnet kinds of rocks. Some are round and others kinda squarish. Some are smooth an some are wicked rough. Some used to be rough and got smooth through, like, nature and stuff. And SOME of them we don't know about yet because they're still, like, totally UNDERGROUND!"
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
May 29, 2007, 1:47 AM
Post #19186 of 22774
(11437 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
The reaction from the professor would be classic one way or another.. either a big WTF?? or off the chair laughing
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
May 29, 2007, 11:16 AM
Post #19187 of 22774
(11423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Jason, for sure we'll hook up and get our crag on, yo, broham.
didn't get out much this weekend, except for sunday afternoon at CR with Shane. spent most of friday and saturday on the project of purchasing a new two wheeled motor vehicle.
mem-day, hiked Purgatory with pam, and found a couple new lines down at the swamp end which look fun. tried one with a .7-ish start (a bit technical) in my hikers - those fricken Quechuas have awesome grip, for hikers. too bad decathlon have abandoned the USA market - and was surprised to complete it. bailed off before I got too high.
Jake, in the interest of trying harder things, on sunday I made a couple atrempts at the "flunked again" .10 next to "exercize...." projecting that, man.
|
|
|
|
|
lewdsilver
May 29, 2007, 1:19 PM
Post #19188 of 22774
(11398 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2005
Posts: 29
|
climbing in acadia for the first time was excellent.
much thanks to Notch for climbing with me on Sat & showing me some trad basics.
Notch, next time we'll find that second pitch off of grendel!!
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
May 29, 2007, 1:36 PM
Post #19189 of 22774
(11397 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Hey, nice to hear from you, Jason!
Had a glorious weekend up in Acadia with a generous sampling of the MetroRock crew. Plenty of sendage was accomplished. Here are a few that stick out for me:
Allison Cherry successfully led, onsight, P1 of Chitlins Corner, which at 5.7 is, I think, her hardest trad lead to date. Go Al! I successfully led the second (10a) pitch onsight, which she seconded cleanly. We were both pleased about that!
There was also a sendage party by Boston Hardmen on the local 11a testpiece, Connecticut Crack. Matt and Alex nailed it after rehearsing it on TR. Tim got up it with one fall. Not being as strong as those folks, I had to wait until a second day when I was fresh, and then sent it cleanly. Only my second trad redpoint at the grade! (Not counting Indian Creek splitters - which don't count - that stuff is candy to a cracklover like me).
Allison Oaxaca got the onsight lead of Old Town (5.7). Just about at her limit. A proud day! Oh, and Tim also led cleanly the superb Otter Cliffs climb, A Dare by the Sea, after a TR rehearsal. What a great weekend of sending hard (for us)!
We had glorious weather all weekend - the only rain coming overnight when we were all (well, mostly all) curled up in our tents.
Sadly, Tim left his lights on all day Friday, and due to a strange quirk of Toyota engineering killed his alternator, too. Hopefully by now he's managed to get a new fuse and hobble back to Boston. Ah, the life of a poor grad student. Me, I came damn close to having my car explode twice in one day, but that story will have to wait.
That's the Sea Spray from Acadia. Will try to throw some pics in here when I have the time (still working on the Yose trip report - I'm so behind!)
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on May 29, 2007, 1:37 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
nurocks
May 29, 2007, 2:42 PM
Post #19190 of 22774
(11387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
Hey Gabe, congrats on a good weekend at accadia. That place it pretty.
Ah shit. It's happened. I re-realized how much time one could waste on this site. Now I'll never graduate on time.
Later,
Jason
|
|
|
|
|
losbill
May 29, 2007, 3:01 PM
Post #19191 of 22774
(11382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 416
|
Good weekend with beautiful weather in the Gunks. Aaron (Rhonius) and I went down Friday AM. Hit the Nears. Aaron did a super steady lead on YYYY to warm up and he really enjoyed it. Especially the 3rd pitch!! When we got back down all our target climbs were taken so I led up Layback. Did the chimney start, what a grunt! I have done the little arete start in the past. Next up was Disneyland. I took P1 and Aaron did a excellent job on P2!
Next morning Kurt (Huktoncrack) followed Aaron up Jackie to Classic. Another great, very smooth lead by Aaron on a true Gunks classic (IMHO) and steady climbing by Kurt. Rachel followed me up RMC. Nice route with a bit of variety. Some overhang, some face, some Gunks' horizontal jug hauling and a gear anchor to talk about. No problem for Rachel who is a climbing machine.
Handed Aaron off to Doug to go do some harder stuff Dangler, Pas de Deux and Son of Easy O. Walked the base of the crag looking for a good climb to get Kurt and Rachel on. All the ones I had in mind all the way down to Limelight were taken. Somewhat reluctantly began to rope up for Snake to Steep Hikin'. At the last moment Kurt double-checked Limelight. It had opened up!!!
We had a great time on it. Jeremy, I stand corrected, P1 is a lot better than I remembered it. I think climbing it with doubles makes a difference. Kurt really enjoyed P1. Kurt did very well indeed on the somewhat technical climbing on P2 with the finger cracks, smears and very thin feet. Rachel just ate P2 up. Kurt and I have the reach advantage on the traverse under the overhang. Rachel does not. I couldn't see her from my position on the Throne. But I could tell from the belay that with just the slightest pause she moved up and left on the thin hands and feet, that Kurt and I could skip over, and got the roof jugs. Good job, Rachel!!!
Aaron had to leave that night and Rachel and Kurt were hooking up with a guide for some trad instruction, smart move for new leaders, for Sunday. I hooked up with my friend Jeff for Sunday. I wanted to cruise 5.6's to get my trad groove going, this was my first trad outing of the season, before continuing my effort on getting all the starred 5.7s done. Jeff just wanted to get some climbing in and work out the kinks so I got all the leads.
The first climb was a good one The Last Shall Be First. P1 is long, 160', with consistently good 5.6 climbing. Got to watch Ed and Doug on P2 of MT as I did it. P2 is good with a fun overhang. Jeff got some what hopefully will be some good pics of Ed belaying Doug up Directissima from the Lunch Ledge on the rap down.
Next up was High E since Jeff hadn't been on it and it was open! Jeff, who is a bit of a low key guy, actually seemed to demonstrate visible signs of enjoyment as he finished it!!!
Dan and Gerry roped up for CCK; and Doug and Ed for Erect Direction to Keep On Struttin'. I somewhat reluctantly, didn't look great from the bottom, started up Moonlight. P1 turned to be much nicer than it looked from the ground. P2 is the money. If you find a line on High E do Moonlight. You will not be disappointed. Nice moves on beautiful rock (think Arrow and Limelight) with super exposure and position.
I was additionally entertained by being able to watch Ed lead Doug up next to me on P2 and P3 of Keep On Struttin'. There are a couple of moves on that route which are truly "reachy". The fact that there is a "very slight" height and ape index between the two climbers made for a very interesting contrast in styles. Great job and great dyno, Doug!!!!
Despite the siren call of my friends, who were climbing Monday, and the brews at the Otter; Jeff and I headed home. Terrific weather, terrific climbing and a terrific group of friends. Truly a great weekend!!
|
|
|
|
|
huktoncrack
May 29, 2007, 6:35 PM
Post #19192 of 22774
(11350 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 6, 2005
Posts: 37
|
Bill,
You pretty much summed it up. A great weekend despite some weather threats that didn't amount to much of anything. Monday was just beautiful weather and even better routes. Despite wanting to work on leading, Rachel and I made the right choice and stuck with Doug, Dan, and Gerry to finish the weekend. First, we followed Doug on Layback, really fun. Then, to finish it up, Dan led us up Disneyland in one pitch. What a way to finish! That and Limelight were the definite highlights for me. I wish we could've stuck around longer to get a lead in but it was getting late and I had to work today . Next time. Thanks to everyone out there for putting up with a couple of noobs, we had a blast.
|
|
|
|
|
acherry
May 29, 2007, 7:03 PM
Post #19193 of 22774
(11342 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2004
Posts: 105
|
lewdsilver wrote: Notch, next time we'll find that second pitch off of grendel!!
HA! I had the same problem. I ended up going up the arrete, which was mostly unprotectable, versus the off-hands crack that the book mentioned, that was full of lichen, and completely unprotectable without a bunch of big cams.
edited to make my grammar slightly less terrible
(This post was edited by acherry on May 29, 2007, 7:05 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
lewdsilver
May 29, 2007, 7:10 PM
Post #19194 of 22774
(11337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2005
Posts: 29
|
In reply to: HA! I had the same problem. I ended up going up the arrete, which was mostly unprotectable, versus the off-hands crack that the book mentioned, that was full of lichen, and completely unprotectable without a bunch of big cams.
Dude!
Hey Notch - you were not crazy.
Allison, Notch got up there and found the off hands crack in the same condition as well as having a huge spider web. Did you hit the arete in the middle next to the 5.10A crack off the left? Or did you hit the arete just left of that off-hands crack. i.e. on the other side of the lichen?
(This post was edited by lewdsilver on May 29, 2007, 7:11 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
acherry
May 29, 2007, 8:05 PM
Post #19195 of 22774
(11323 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2004
Posts: 105
|
I went to the arrete between where I suppose Grendel is supposed to be and Old Town. So, way out to the left.
|
|
|
|
|
treddy
May 29, 2007, 8:11 PM
Post #19196 of 22774
(11321 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 47
|
A great weekend at acadia indeed. It was amazing and inspiring to watch so many people pushing their limits on gear. Cadillac crack...I'll be back for you!
As for the car: Contrary to popular belief, red on a battery does not mean positive. And yes, hooking up your battery backwards is ill advised. Somewhat fortunately, we only blew the alternator fuse and not the alternator itself, leaving us with a not-to-be-missed opportunity to play macguyver: "You are stuck in a national park with a car full of climbing gear and assorted camping supplies. It is dark. How can you short out the alternator fuse and get back to camp?" Ultimately, we were able to break open the fuse and splice the leads back together, which got us all the way back to Boston. For future reference, chewing gum is actually not a good choice for a high current adhesive -- mainly due to its tendency to melt and catch fire. The fuse will also melt and vaporize a paper clip, which is somewhat surprising to watch.
In other good news, after hobbling poor Bessie back to cambridge, I found an invitation to visit UCSF for a postdoc interview in a couple weeks. Needless to say, you should all wish me luck so you have a free couch to crash on out west when need be. I plan to hit up lovers leap while I'm out there and repeat my first ever trad climb.
Tim
|
|
|
|
|
notch
May 30, 2007, 12:44 AM
Post #19197 of 22774
(11284 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 599
|
acherry wrote: I went to the arrete between where I suppose Grendel is supposed to be and Old Town. So, way out to the left.
Anyone here know the correct finish to Grendal? Butterfield's guide is obnoxious, and Green's book doesn't show it.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
May 30, 2007, 3:03 AM
Post #19198 of 22774
(11277 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
notch wrote: acherry wrote: I went to the arrete between where I suppose Grendel is supposed to be and Old Town. So, way out to the left. Nice work Alison! I'm looking at Stewart Green's Rock Climbing New England, and I'm wondering if you wound up climbing Birch Aid. 5.8! Anyone here know the correct finish to Grendal? Butterfield's guide is obnoxious, and Green's book doesn't show it.
When you guys are talking about the second pitch of Grendal, are you talking about something up above the Old Town ledge? Because that's where the Butterfield guide shows P1 as ending. The part leading up to that ledge is really just the second half of pitch 1.
Anyway, on that second half of P1, what Allison led (and I seconded) wasn't that hard, though it was poorly protected. But what's so notable is that it made much more sense than what Butterfield was suggesting. The crack the Butterfield guide points at was equally unprotectable, and much harder than 5.6. At this point, my best guess is that the corner/crack that Butterfield is suggesting in his book may have opened up in the earthquake?
GO
|
|
|
|
|
notch
May 30, 2007, 12:54 PM
Post #19199 of 22774
(11732 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 599
|
Gabe,
Is the 2 bolt anchor at the OT ledge? Carlos had the book, so I'm not sure. I also started up the right side crack on the second half of pitch one, but backed off and went to the left. I don't recall the pro as being all that bad, and the climbing was fun.
Where I really got out of sorts was trying to move up from there. Butterfield mentions something to the left of Gunklandia, but I couldn't figure out what he was talking about.
|
|
|
|
|
acherry
May 30, 2007, 12:55 PM
Post #19200 of 22774
(10147 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2004
Posts: 105
|
cracklover wrote: When you guys are talking about the second pitch of Grendal, are you talking about something up above the Old Town ledge? Because that's where the Butterfield guide shows P1 as ending. The part leading up to that ledge is really just the second half of pitch 1. GO
I'm wondering if the correct second half of pitch 1 starts up basically straight from the tree I slung, rather than trending left? The butterfield guide, if I remember correctly, has P1 ending basically at the same level at the Old Town ledge anchor but at an anchor further to the right. Maybe I/we were one left-facing corner too far to the left?
|
|
|
|
|
|
