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apollodorus


Sep 26, 2002, 10:22 PM
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World Record for Stuff Dropped on a Wall
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This is a contest: Who's dropped the most stuff from a big wall? The winner gets a severely destroyed cam, suitable for your local shop's Wall of Shame. Postage included.

In all fairness, I witnessed a tremendous cratering from halfway up Scorched Earth, so any would-be winner of this contest better have a pretty good story.


andy_lemon


Sep 26, 2002, 10:46 PM
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ohh ohh! I know! I know!

It has got to be Pass the Piton Pete. I don't know how many stories I've heard about his poop bag tearing as he was hauling it up behind him!

Pete says, "Look out below, eh"


epic_ed


Sep 26, 2002, 10:51 PM
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What's up, Tom?

How 'bout a TR? We'd love to hear about 'Pete and Tom's Great Wall Epic!' Hope you guys had a blast.

I managed to drop the same #7 HB Offset twice on the same climb. My partner found it the first day when we fixed & rapped. That wasn't good enough for me, so I dropped it again the second day. If he had found it again I was going to top out on my next climb and just give it a toss for old time's sake

Shortly after I ran into you at the base of Cosmos on El Cap back in May (you may not remember), my buddy nearly got clocked by a #5 Camelot. Must have fallen 400 feet and "glided" on the way down, but hit the ground with the thud of a meteor less than 20 feet from him. The sick bastard picked it up and used it all summer on various climbs. Definitely a braver man that I...

BTW--any idea if Pete is heading to AZ for the gathering this weekend?

Ed

[ This Message was edited by: up2top on 2002-09-26 22:52 ]


apollodorus


Sep 27, 2002, 1:20 AM
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#5 Camalot??? I dropped a #4 from the top of P10 on Excalibur. That was right before I pinned a microwave-sized block with a yellow alien on one side and a #2 Friend on the other and stood up. The block was loose, but was between two good sides. Nice way to get to the bolts in the dark.

And, no, the wallflowers don't count, even if they'd blown completely out. Not enough mass there to qualify for the World's Record Wall Crater prize.

The TR of the Scorched Earth has to begin with PTPP. He be da man. I have no interest in stealing his side of the story, because it's his.

[ This Message was edited by: apollodorus on 2002-09-27 01:26 ]


passthepitonspete


Sep 27, 2002, 1:30 PM
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I wish to assure you that the preposterous myths are true.

Dr. Piton HIMSELF may well qualify for a near-World Record for dropped stuff.

This is a story too amazing to be related in so short a time available, and shall have to wait until he returns to the keyboard on Monday.

In the meantime, it is indeed true:

The notorious Dr. Piton will be attending the RC.com Arizona Gathering in Flagstaff this very weekend.

Heaven help you all.


mtnjohn


Sep 27, 2002, 1:52 PM
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Embarassing as it is, from 5 pitches up
I once dropped our complete colletion of Stoppers, which was our entire rack except QDs
We rapped and spent the next morning imatating an Easter Egg hunt looking for stoppers


no_limit


Sep 29, 2002, 5:52 PM
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OOOOHHHH John, that must have sucked. How many did you find?


beyond_gravity


Sep 29, 2002, 6:18 PM
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I got dropped.

Does that count?


natec


Sep 29, 2002, 6:40 PM
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I friend of mine was attempting to make the first hammerless ascent of Zenyatta Mondatta and break the speed record simultaneously.

On, I think, the 8th pitch, he dropped 2/3 of the cams that they were carrying.

They were still able to pull the route off in 2nd fastest time but the hammerless was lost.

He will never ever live it down.


ergophobe


Sep 29, 2002, 9:30 PM
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Some possibilities that come to mind


- Jimmy Dunn losing half of his gear on the first ascent of Cosmos and finishing anyway (not certain about this, I may be mixing it up with..._

- Charlie Porter losing most lots of his gear low on... Zodiac I think and sewing his ensolite pad into a tunic and wearing that.

- Hugues Beauzille losing his sleeping bag on a solo *winter* ascent of the Walker Spur.

- Pat Ament losing all of his pitons high on the Nose on an early ascent.



Tom

[ This Message was edited by: ergophobe on 2002-09-29 21:31 ]


wildtrail


Sep 29, 2002, 10:42 PM
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Actually, it was Marc Twight, it was about a 100 feet, and he punched a 22cm ice crew through one side and out the other, of his calf muscle. He continued to climb on it for weeks with a festering wound.

Moxy. Pure moxy!

Forgive me for being literal and correcting you. However, this is the story I know about. If there was one involving Scott Fischer, I apologize as I did not know that. However, the Twight story is true. There were several witnesses that saw him fall about 100 feet from a route.

Steve


Partner rrrADAM


Sep 30, 2002, 4:23 PM
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I know of someone who's dropped one partner's whole pig, another partner's rack of pitons, and even another partner's rack of Aliens while Big Wall climbing. Don't want to name him, as I'm sure he doesn't want it known here at RC.com. It is funny how it's other people's stuff though, not his.

I guess his "Coefficient of Wank" is high.

[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2002-09-30 16:24 ]


passthepitonspete


Sep 30, 2002, 6:57 PM
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First of all, it was my pin rack. Good thing Ammon happened to be walking by the base at the time! [snicker]

And I've never dropped anyone's Alien rack, though two or three years ago I dropped a partner's Alien which I had to replace for him.

The benefit of dropping a pig from halfway up an overhanging wall is that retreat is not a possibility! [though believe me, it crossed my mind]. Finishing a wall with insufficient water was a good test of our fortitude [when it comes to "steeling your mind," I was forced to practise what I preach] and I was glad we didn't bail. It also had the benefit of forcing me to roughly triple my usual relaxed speed. When the locals looked up and saw us blasting to the summit, they couldn't believe their eyes!

Still though, Tom and I managed to recover everything - even my headlamp survived intact- so for that I am thankful.

I am so far ahead on the found vs. dropped spectrum, I think I'll just have to make another post!

Please click here to read Dr. Piton's Tour of Booty!

I am Dr. Piton,

and I'm bloody going to check twice next time before I attach the haul line to the wrong place.

Sheesh.

Man, you should have seen that pig fly......


apollodorus


Sep 30, 2002, 11:31 PM
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SEEN the pig fly??? What about HEARING the pig and the attached Blue
Whale go down? It sounded like a fast-rising symphony building to the crescendo
where a netherworld monster destroys himself and his oversized tympani with
a tremendous BOOM!


Here is the official list of one of the biggest one-shot drops in history:




One Grade VI Metolius Pig

One Grade VII Blue Whale, on a catchline

26 liters of water

Forty-four pounds of packaged food

Eight pound avocado/orange bucket, on a catchline

Fourteen pounds of oversized cams (V.G. #7 through #16)

Nine pounds of clothing

Six pounds of storm gear

Two pound sleeping bag, on a catchline

Three pounds of stove, gas and coffee

Three pound bolt kit

60m of 11mm Mammut Flex rope

Ten assorted crabs and lockers

Two or three pounds of assorted bivy gear

Two or three pounds of assorted climbing gear





My Amazing Flying Whale gets the Wee-Wee Big Wall MVP Award, for
getting its catch line tangled in the trees, thus sparing $800 worth of magnesium
Valley Giants cams from certain death.


Pete's Pig hit full speed and blew out its bottom and side seams completely.
Exploding water and clam chowder saved the coffee stove (Thank God!) and
other things near the top. A few smaller cams in the pig were severly mangled when they opened the cans of clam chowder. All our other gear was in other pig, which stayed stuck to the wall for the duration.

[ This Message was edited by: apollodorus on 2002-09-30 23:49 ]


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 1, 2002, 8:34 AM
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Sounds dangerous to those below... Good thing it didn't hit anyone.


petsfed


Oct 1, 2002, 9:45 AM
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Scott Fischer did in fact have an ice climbing stab incident. And he also went without medical aid. While Mark Twight took a screw to the lower leg, Fischer took a tubular ice tool pick to the same spot, extracting a core sample of his flesh. Lovely huh?


hollyclimber


Oct 1, 2002, 11:27 AM
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The funniest part about the pig dropping was the Valley idiot who posted a note something like this on the Camp 4 Board--

SO, YOU LIKE TO THROW YOUR PIG OFF THE WALL....BLAH BLAH BLAH

LOOK AT WHAT IT DID TO YOUR CAMS, YOU ARE SO DUMB...BLAH BLAH BLAH

I removed the stupid and offending note immediately...obviously no one would throw that pig off in that manner on purpose.

If I didn't know better, I would have thought rrradam was in the Valley when I found it. (someone should go play with the sport climbers, where it is safe...I can't believe something dangerous happened when aid climbing...pigs flying again, damn it!)

And, in answer to rrradams question, the flame he sent is in saying "i know someone that dropped something" blah blah like he is going to embarrass Pete with that. lame. we have all dropped stuff. if you haven't, get out there and get climbing, because you need to get up some more walls baby.

[ This Message was edited by: hollyclimber on 2002-10-02 11:08 ]


hollyclimber


Oct 1, 2002, 11:29 AM
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By the way, the coolest untreated wound I have ever seen was Ammons hand cut wide open and flapping. No doctor, and in two weeks he was cranking again. Actually, it looked pretty good to me in the end, so maybe no doctor is not so bad after all.


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 1, 2002, 12:54 PM
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Sport Climber ??? I'm a Trad Climber.

Rockclimbing is dangerous, but climbers shouldn't have to worry about someone dropping a pig on them from above due to carelessness. Do you not agree Holly ??? That could've been fatal if it had hit someone.

If you, or anyone, read of a fatality due to carelessness from an above and unrelated party, what would you think of that party ???


BTW... Ammon's hand reopened when I was climbing with him near Big Bear at Holcomb Valley Pinnacles. Looked like a piece of bacon. You forgot to mention his "cankle", at least that's what he calls it.



~Adam

[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2002-10-01 12:59 ]


atg200


Oct 1, 2002, 1:06 PM
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Only an idiot hangs around the base of El Cap without watching for that sort of thing. I had a piton hammer land not far from me that was dropped from high on Iron Hawk, and that would have killed me just as surely as a haul bag would have - though the haul bag is easier to see and therefore dodge.

How many walls have you done Adam? Yes, its poor form to drop a whole bag off a wall, but on the other hand s--- happens - especially on walls.


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 1, 2002, 1:26 PM
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I have done NONE, but I have had to dodge a Nalgene bottle dropped from an above party while leading P3 of a 5 Pitch Trad climb.

How easy is it to dodge a pig dropped when you are leading an A5 if it is headed toward you ???


Where was the flame in my above posts ??? I even included the 'razz' smiley on the first, but I detect a tone of flame sent my way. Are my points not valid ??? It sounds as if you are saying that on Big Walls, no one is responsible for their actions, as "shit happens".


My first post was "on topic", and my current point is that if someone were to get injured or die due to the carelessness of and anrelated party climbing above, it would be on the above party, not on the climber injured. As climbers we take on the dangers, and act accoprdingly. But we should not have to be subjected to the dangers of a careless party above. Do you not think there is a difference between "shit happens" and carelessness ???

Sport Climbing... Few details to pay attention to.

Trad Climbing... Lots of details to pay attention to.

I would assume that Aid Climbing has the most amount of details that need "attention to detail".


Do you not agree Andy ???

[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2002-10-01 13:41 ]


Partner drector


Oct 1, 2002, 1:44 PM
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I would worry about climbing with someone who incorrectly tied the pig (That sounds funny). I'd worry that I'd be watching that guy/gal on his way down and wondering how I would finish solo.

I dropped a nut off of a 50 foot crag climb. I felt stupid for not taking more care in managing my gear.

No one in this thread had the nerve to claim a dropped partner. Just pigs. This has sure got to sound funny to someone who doesn't know the lingo.

So should I start a new thread asking who trad climbs and has never dropped ANY gear?

Dave

[ This Message was edited by: drector on 2002-10-01 14:58 ]


atg200


Oct 1, 2002, 1:50 PM
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Yup, I agree care should be taken, but things get dropped on walls all the time. That is why the base of El Cap occasionally looks like a junkyard. I doubt that the pig would go anywhere near another party - that part of El Cap is way overhanging, and nothing over there is an absolute plumb line. I have never dropped a pig off a wall, but it can and has happened due to carelessness or the bag itself blowing apart. Lots of things falling off El Cap can kill you - loose rocks, hammers, a rack of pins, etc. Being aware of things falling from the sky is just a part of El Cap.

I don't think I flamed any more than you did Adam. It seemed to me you are dogging on Pete as per usual, but if not and my post seems like a harsh flame, I apologize.


spiffdog


Oct 1, 2002, 2:32 PM
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As for dropping gear, it's going to happen sooner or later (it's a bona fide big wall fact) unless your willing to deal with dozens of tethers and keeper cords. I'm confused about one thing though. Pete tied the haul line to the wrong locker, so when he released the load release knot, the pig went for the big ride. But how exactly did you release the knot? Did you just let it rip? Wouldn't the better way be to lower out the pig slowly on the load release knot until the haul line comes taut? Simply untying the knot and letting go would seem to be the mark of a BWT! Glad to hear the giants survived.

Spiff


kindredlion


Oct 1, 2002, 3:31 PM
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Ditto on the giants, that was nice to hear that they're still around... are you still selling them Tom? BTW Tom we haven't met personally, but I have been around the valley hearing all these stories from the locals, we should meet one of these days...

Ammons flapper was sick three and a half weeks ago! I guess he's better, good for him...

I am glad, but Spiff beat me to it.. What the FRiCk? Doc, what did you do up there really? I know you are drafting the full color TR, but wee want the dirty deets.. Did you lower the swine out, or was there some quick pulling?

Anxious for the story...

I dropped a locker once... fell 1200 feet to the tallus and bounced... I hope no one sees that crab ever again...




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