|
surfbum
Sep 27, 2002, 6:21 AM
Post #1 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2002
Posts: 7
|
I plan on taking a road trip to Joshua Tree next winter and am wondering what are some recommended moderate trad lines? I regularly climb in the Red River Gorge between 5.6 and 5.8, but have been few other places. Can anyone recommend a few lines to tackle, campgrounds to stay, and the latest guide to check. All info will be appreciated.
surfbum.
[ This Message was edited by: cass on 2002-09-27 02:02 ]
|
|
|
|
|
winkwinklambonini
Sep 27, 2002, 3:03 PM
Post #2 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 17, 2002
Posts: 1579
|
Check out "rock climbs of hidden valley". This has the highest concentration of good routes. It's been years since i've been there but I do remember double cross was good. Across the street was my first 5.9, the left exit around some roof, I'm getting vaclempt(spelling?).
Try not too short circuit with all that crazy info.
|
|
|
|
|
artm
Sep 27, 2002, 3:39 PM
Post #3 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 22, 2001
Posts: 17990
|
Just off the top of my head
Hemingway buttress
White Lightning 5.7
Overseer 5.9
Prepackaged 5.10a
Dairy Queen wall
Scrumdillyishus 5.7
frosty cone 5.7
Mr misty kiss 5.7
Hidden Tower
wild wind 5.9
sail away 5.7
Houser Buttress
Loose Lady 5.9
Dummy's Delight 5.9
Lucky lady 5.8
Lady Fingers 5.9
Intersection rock
North Overhang 5.9
overhang bypass 5.7
the Old Woman
Double Cross 5.7
dogleg 5.8
toejam 5.7
Geronimo 5.7
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Sep 27, 2002, 3:58 PM
Post #4 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
surfbum,
What ever you do, don't miss these two on Headstone Rock in Ryan campground.
1) Southwest Corner (5.6)
2) Cryptic (5.7)
These may be the best climbs in these grades in the Park. Have fun.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
micronut
Sep 27, 2002, 4:11 PM
Post #5 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2002
Posts: 1760
|
Stay at Hidden Valley campground, then you'll be able to walk to 1,ooo routes. You might have to probe around for a couple days to get a spot, as they are always full of climbers.
Start out slow at Josh. Sometimes the routes feel sandbag or "trippy" at first. It's all in trusting the Josh friction.
I would recommend "Toe Jam 5.7" as a first route. It's right at the enterance of the campground, is only 5.7 at the top and has good nuts at the crux. Another good one is "Hands Off, 5.8", also on the campground road. "Sail Away, 5.8-" is not to be missed.
|
|
|
|
|
team_cranberry
Sep 27, 2002, 9:08 PM
Post #6 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 20, 2002
Posts: 10
|
When you Arrive at Joshua Tree (the town) go the the gift shop that is on the east side of the road that leads to the park (I think it is called Coyote Corner.) The guy that owns the place is great and the store is really a wonderful place. Anyway, pick yourself up some of the Alan Bartlett Guides. They are by far the best Joshua tree guides. Beware, there are separate books for each area.
Don't miss Double Cross!! It was so great, I had a hard time resisting the urge to freesolo it!!
|
|
|
|
|
mike
Sep 27, 2002, 10:15 PM
Post #7 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 1461
|
My second day of climbing (ever) was at JT last February. We had a guide/instructor and climbed and camped in Indian Cove. Bunch of easy to moderate climbs or else I wouldn't have been getting up them. I'm going back this February. This is my favorite place of all the places I have been. Not just going to clean this time though.
[ This Message was edited by: mike on 2002-09-27 15:17 ]
|
|
|
|
|
fitz
Sep 27, 2002, 11:25 PM
Post #8 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 363
|
On chilly days, there are also some nice moderate routes in Indian Cove, which is generally warmer. We Dive at Dawn is fun (5.8?) and you can easily setup some 10a-11a top ropes in the same general area.
-jjf
|
|
|
|
|
nlunstrum
Sep 30, 2002, 6:34 AM
Post #9 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 20, 2002
Posts: 19
|
HiddenValley has the most climbing within walking distance, heck you can belay from your tent at some sites. Try The Bong. It's on the Blob formation, 5.5 I think? A good intro to J-Tree IMO.
Enjoy
|
|
|
|
|
tradguy
Oct 2, 2002, 10:25 PM
Post #10 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 526
|
artm named some really good climbs, but as someone who has climbed at both Red River Gorge and Joshua Tree, I'll warn you that you'll find the ratings at JT to be a bit stiffer than the Red. If you're only trad leading 5.8 at the red, stick with the 5.7s and under until you feel comfortable on the JT granite.
Here's some other easier recommendations:
Fote Hog - 5.6 (Real Hidden Valley)
Almost Vertical - 5.7 (Real Hidden Valley)
Ain't Nothing But a J-Tree Thing - 5.6 (RHV)
Buissonier - 5.7 (Hidden Valley Campground)
The Bong - 5.4 (The Blob, HVCG)
A Walk On The Beach - 5.5 (The Blob, HVCG)
Ballbury - 5.7 (The Blob, HVCG)
Pinnacle Stand - 5.7 (Intersection Rock)
Bat Crack p. 2 - 5.5 (Intersection Rock)
Mike's Books - 5.5 (Intersection Rock)
Double Dip - 5.6 (Echo Rock)
Eff Four - 5.6 (Echo Rock)
Stichter Quits - 5.7 (Echo Rock)
Bonzo Dog Band - 5.7 (South Echo Cove Rock)
Deceptive Corner - 5.7 (South Echo Cove Rock)
Bucket Brigade - 5.7 (South Echo Cove Rock)
Tougher, but very fun:
R.M.L. - 5.8 (South Echo Cove Rock)
Walk On The Wild Side - 5.8 (Saddle Rock)
|
|
|
|
|
jgorris
Oct 2, 2002, 11:11 PM
Post #11 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2002
Posts: 124
|
The Flake 5.8
North Overhang 5.9
Overhang Bypass 5.7
Sidewinder *****
ZZZZZ 5.8
Just off the top of my head at work where I don't keep my JT guide book.
|
|
|
|
|
tigerbythetail
Oct 8, 2002, 1:03 AM
Post #12 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 514
|
Double Dip 5.6
S.W. Corner (Headstone) 5.6
Cryptic 5.8
Walk On The Wild Side 5.8
Mental Physics 5.7+
Double Cross 5.8
The Swift 5.7
Dappled Mare 5.8
Sail Away 5.8
Right On 5.5
Lazy Day 5.7
Stichter Quits (Black Tide) 5.7
Bambi Meets Godzilla 5.8+
Aigulle De Joshua Tree 5.6
Dolphin 5.7
The Flue 5.8
Buissonier 5.7
Geronimo 5.7
Mike's Books 5.6
Hands Off 5.8
Dogleg 5.8
There's plenty more- Ask @ Nomad in Josh or across the street at Coyote Corner.
|
|
|
|
|
murf
Oct 8, 2002, 5:55 PM
Post #13 of 13
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 15, 2002
Posts: 1150
|
surfbum,
Ignore jgorris, while "The Flake" and "Overhang Bypass" are classic. "ZZZZZ" is a runout 5.9 and "Sidewinder" is a runout .10b.
Don't know how he thinks these are "moderates" for you.
Murf
|
|
|
|
|
|
