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cchas
May 7, 2007, 6:48 PM
Post #51 of 68
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Registered: Jun 9, 2005
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I'm with those who are into mocasyms (and hint to those at 5.10, don't EVER stop making them). Used them last weekend to lead 5.12 tips only cracks and 5.10 offwidth. I find they do everything well.
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petsfed
May 7, 2007, 6:56 PM
Post #52 of 68
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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The moccs are really terrible when you're hanging from a heel-toe jam, or most anytime you need a good edging shoe, but they are definitely my favorite for anything else. Its time to get a new pair (that or the Mad Rock Maniac, which is the same shoe with a superfluos strap attached) since the leather on the top is finally blowing out. I should get some shoe goo and a rand patch and fix it.
Seriously, when I get on Spin to Win (Spinning the Wind? I need a vedauwoo bouldering book) the shoes just pop clean off, and that's a hard offwidth right there.
The moccs are proof that shoes won't make you a better climber.
(This post was edited by petsfed on May 7, 2007, 7:00 PM)
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cchas
May 7, 2007, 8:27 PM
Post #53 of 68
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Registered: Jun 9, 2005
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As with any shoe, its fit, fit and fit. As for me the heal cup on the mocasymms fit really well, which makes heal-toes really positive. As for edging, its about fit. While I won't use them on sports climbs 5.12d or harder, (and I'm lazy so on sports climbs I just use LS Venoms) but on one of the 5.12 cracks I did on Sunday, the foot holds (a tips only crack) were strickly dime edges.
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binrat
May 9, 2007, 1:06 AM
Post #54 of 68
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Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
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Been climbing on Mythos for about 2 months, They'r better than Boreal! Myhtos for me in the future.
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lextalion
May 31, 2007, 1:52 AM
Post #56 of 68
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 216
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I climb in Katana's, Muiras & Mythos. It all depends on what I'm climbing.
For long routes I love the mythos, and other times I climb in either my katana's or muiras where I want superior edging and capability of standing on a dimes edge. However I've got to take them off at belay stations in order to keep the dogs from screaming.
The 1st time I climbed in katanas I didn't take them off til done with the climb. needless to say I had black toe nails on both feet for about a month after words.
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superbum
May 31, 2007, 3:33 AM
Post #57 of 68
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 822
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Just got the Acopa Enzos in the mail today...they feel super comfy around the house and seem to jam (between the fridge and the wall) pretty good...if they crank as good as they feel, I will be stoked!
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justthemaid
May 31, 2007, 5:27 AM
Post #58 of 68
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Registered: Sep 11, 2004
Posts: 777
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Acopa JB hightops all the way.
I LOVE em'
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bennydh
May 31, 2007, 6:05 AM
Post #59 of 68
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Registered: May 2, 2005
Posts: 368
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ja1484 wrote: phang_nga wrote: If your shoes hurt like hell You're not going to climb as well 100% truth. The first thing I look at in shoes now is comfort. The one aspect of a shoe that really will affect your climbing ability is whether or not you're in agony.
My Testarrosas hurt like hell because i sized them super tight, but as soon as you let your balls descend a little and suck it up... they perform so so unbelievably well. With that said...testarrosas aren't for cracks, the muiras may be an alright option to explore though.
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eastvillage
May 31, 2007, 10:31 AM
Post #60 of 68
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Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 262
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azrockclimber wrote: ja1484 wrote: I have yet to encounter a better "all around" trad shoe than the 5.10 Newton. Unfortunately, you can only really get em in europe these days, God knows why, and they might've stopped making em all together. I'm also a fan of the Mythos, though it's not quite as gentle on your feet when jamming. The newton is the best that I have ever used by far. I use it fitted for 5.10 and up, 1/2 size bigger for 5.8-5.9, and for 5.7 and below or really long routes.... I use my old spires, so Comfy... like slippers. 
Why they are doing this is beyond me. They don't have a shoe to replace it. Call 5.10 and see what's left.
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azrockclimber
May 31, 2007, 11:24 AM
Post #61 of 68
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Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 666
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coastal_climber wrote: What is a good crack shoe that jams and edges, if there is such a thing. I am looking for a new shoe for the summer, and if possible would be good at both of those. >Cam
I guess I didn't read the question the first time.... Jams thin cracks and edges...good luck man....
edges and friction/slab/larger cracks=newtons....thin cracks/smearing on vertical nothing=mocasyms
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ja1484
May 31, 2007, 12:27 PM
Post #62 of 68
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Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935
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bennydh wrote: ja1484 wrote: phang_nga wrote: If your shoes hurt like hell You're not going to climb as well 100% truth. The first thing I look at in shoes now is comfort. The one aspect of a shoe that really will affect your climbing ability is whether or not you're in agony. My Testarrosas hurt like hell because i sized them super tight, but as soon as you let your balls descend a little and suck it up... they perform so so unbelievably well. With that said...testarrosas aren't for cracks, the muiras may be an alright option to explore though.
Well, if you actually think you need your shoes painfully tight to climb well...that's what you're gonna have to deal with.
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LostinMaine
May 31, 2007, 2:39 PM
Post #63 of 68
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Registered: May 8, 2007
Posts: 539
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I just ripped through the rand on my Mythos. They lasted through 2 resoles. They're the most comfy shoe I ever owned and I'm bummed that I have to replace them. Has anyone climbed on both the old style and the new style Mythos? Any thoughts on differences? I hope that not much has changed....
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csproul
May 31, 2007, 3:00 PM
Post #64 of 68
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
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I just got a new pair of mythos and have climbed on my old ones for a few seasons. I don't have much milage on the new ones, but there were some real differences in the sizing. My new mythos are 2 sizes smaller than my old purple ones. The heel on the new shoes do not fit as well as the old ones. This may be due to the fact that I ended up buying the women's version of the new ones, because I couldn't find the men's small enough.
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dlintz
May 31, 2007, 3:16 PM
Post #65 of 68
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
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I emailed Five Ten a couple months ago about finding some more Newtons, they said the only pairs left are extremely small sizes. They told me the Galileos are probably the most comparable replacement in their current lineup.
d.
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ja1484
May 31, 2007, 8:57 PM
Post #66 of 68
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Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935
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The only difference between the new Mythos and old is the sizing and color. The last is the same. The new ones don't disappoint.
Regarding Galileo replacing the Newton: Bull. It's velcro closure. I love VCS shoes for some things, but they just don't stand up to cracks. 5.10's current flagship trad shoe is the Gambit and/or Piton. I have no experience with either. I'd prefer to get my Newtons back but...eh, good luck.
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ja1484
May 31, 2007, 9:46 PM
Post #68 of 68
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Registered: Aug 11, 2006
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dlintz wrote: ja1484 wrote: ...Regarding Galileo replacing the Newton: Bull. It's velcro closure. I love VCS shoes for some things, but they just don't stand up to cracks. 5.10's current flagship trad shoe is the Gambit and/or Piton. I have no experience with either. I'd prefer to get my Newtons back but...eh, good luck. I never said the Galileo was replacing the Newton, neither did the guy from Five Ten. He said the Galileo is closest in terms of stiffness but definitely not the same, both built on the Anasazi last. I've got a pair of Newtons going strong on their second resole and another pair still in the box...I should be covered for the next eight or so years.  d.
It's a business. What FiveTen Man was saying was "Buy the Galileo instead". My point is, trying to associate the Galileo with the Newton at all is just silly. They're completely different shoes.
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