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sting
Jun 1, 2007, 2:47 PM
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Registered: Apr 1, 2007
Posts: 8
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I found this buried in another thread and found it interesting enough that I wanted to revive it under it's own post.
Assume I don't like the idea of buying extra gear like a PAS or using daisy's for anchoring myself at the top of a sport route... let's not debate this... let's just assume those options are no favorable to me.
One popular option would be to use a sling - knotted to shorten if required.
But I found another way that seems to provide adjustability with much more convenience (posted by speleodude). It seems much nicer and quite inexpensive.
Basically it's a 7mm static cordlette girth hitched to your belay loop with a prussik tied onto itself providing adjustability - just locker the loop to the bolt, adjust the prusik and get comfortable!
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/...d4&.dnm=be41.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/...d4&.dnm=734e.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ramblinhammerjack/detail?.dir=/b3d4&.dnm=f2e5.jpg
However, I'm not experienced enough to see if there is an safety problem with it. Is this genius or a problem waiting to happen? Thoughts?
Lance
(This post was edited by sting on Jun 1, 2007, 6:50 PM)
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Valarc
Jun 1, 2007, 3:15 PM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2007
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Wow this is a popular topic lately - I just asked the same question a few days ago
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...2;page=unread#unread
It's called a purcell prusik, and seems to be popular with rescue types. I've seen it listed as an achor attachment, method for ascending, and so on.
One variation sees a figure 8 on a bight tied with THREE strands - the bight plus a tail, making two loops connected via the 8.
I have no idea how strong the pictured three-strand figure 8 knot is - this is a version intended for ascending a rope, and not use in an anchor. Use at your own risk!!!
The other variation is a loop tied with double or triple fisherman's, like a normal cordelette, girthed to the harness at one end and tied to itself with a prusik at the other. This is the version you saw posted by speleodude.
EDIT:
I've thought of tying one of these with some 8mm dynamic rope. The thought of an adjustable, somewhat dynamic tie-in for the anchors is very appealing to me. It would be a bit bulkier than the 7mm cord, but not much. I'd love to have someone with the proper equipment do some drop tests on this semi-dynamic setup and compare it to the usual suspects - slings, daisies, PAS, etc.
(This post was edited by Valarc on Jun 1, 2007, 3:22 PM)
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coolcat83
Jun 1, 2007, 3:15 PM
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Registered: Jan 27, 2007
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i can't view your pictures but i think what you are referring to is called a purcell prusik, it has been discussed as a viable option for a personal anchor it's also useful in a jugging system for easily adjustable loops
edited because we apparently posted at the same time. you got it
(This post was edited by coolcat83 on Jun 1, 2007, 5:31 PM)
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