Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing:
A good (or better) personal anchor???
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Sport Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


sting


Jun 1, 2007, 7:47 AM
Post #1 of 3 (1186 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2007
Posts: 8

A good (or better) personal anchor???
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I found this buried in another thread and found it interesting enough that I wanted to revive it under it's own post.

Assume I don't like the idea of buying extra gear like a PAS or using daisy's for anchoring myself at the top of a sport route... let's not debate this... let's just assume those options are no favorable to me.

One popular option would be to use a sling - knotted to shorten if required.

But I found another way that seems to provide adjustability with much more convenience (posted by speleodude). It seems much nicer and quite inexpensive.

Basically it's a 7mm static cordlette girth hitched to your belay loop with a prussik tied onto itself providing adjustability - just locker the loop to the bolt, adjust the prusik and get comfortable!

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/...d4&.dnm=be41.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/...d4&.dnm=734e.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ramblinhammerjack/detail?.dir=/b3d4&.dnm=f2e5.jpg


However, I'm not experienced enough to see if there is an safety problem with it. Is this genius or a problem waiting to happen? Thoughts?

Lance


(This post was edited by sting on Jun 1, 2007, 11:50 AM)


Valarc


Jun 1, 2007, 8:15 AM
Post #2 of 3 (1154 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 19, 2007
Posts: 1473

Re: [sting] A good (or better) personal anchor??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Wow this is a popular topic lately - I just asked the same question a few days ago
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...2;page=unread#unread

It's called a purcell prusik, and seems to be popular with rescue types. I've seen it listed as an achor attachment, method for ascending, and so on.

One variation sees a figure 8 on a bight tied with THREE strands - the bight plus a tail, making two loops connected via the 8.

I have no idea how strong the pictured three-strand figure 8 knot is - this is a version intended for ascending a rope, and not use in an anchor. Use at your own risk!!!


The other variation is a loop tied with double or triple fisherman's, like a normal cordelette, girthed to the harness at one end and tied to itself with a prusik at the other. This is the version you saw posted by speleodude.

EDIT:

I've thought of tying one of these with some 8mm dynamic rope. The thought of an adjustable, somewhat dynamic tie-in for the anchors is very appealing to me. It would be a bit bulkier than the 7mm cord, but not much. I'd love to have someone with the proper equipment do some drop tests on this semi-dynamic setup and compare it to the usual suspects - slings, daisies, PAS, etc.


(This post was edited by Valarc on Jun 1, 2007, 8:22 AM)


coolcat83


Jun 1, 2007, 8:15 AM
Post #3 of 3 (1152 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007

Re: [sting] A good (or better) personal anchor??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i can't view your pictures but i think what you are referring to is called a purcell prusik, it has been discussed as a viable option for a personal anchor it's also useful in a jugging system for easily adjustable loops

edited because we apparently posted at the same time. you got it


(This post was edited by coolcat83 on Jun 1, 2007, 10:31 AM)


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Sport Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook