Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
CCK gear
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


Partner abe_ascends


Jun 8, 2007, 9:45 PM
Post #1 of 12 (1697 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 367

CCK gear
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just a quick question. I'm thinking about leading CCK during a trip later this month. I've ordered a guidebook (but it hasn't showed up yet) and I checked the Routes DB and gunks.com for the information I'm looking for, but havne't found it.

Basically, I'd like to know what gear is needed for the third pitch of CCK. Nuts I've got, but I'm somewhat lacking on really small cams. Suggestions?


krosbakken


Jun 9, 2007, 10:41 AM
Post #2 of 12 (1632 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 581

Re: [abe_ascends] CCK gear [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Get some small Hexes.


Partner devkrev


Jun 9, 2007, 11:37 AM
Post #3 of 12 (1611 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933

Re: [krosbakken] CCK gear [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

krosbakken wrote:
Get some small Hexes.

Have you ever been to the gunks?

The cracks at the gunks tend to be horizontal, flared, quartzy, and all around irregular, I have never been able to find enough solid hex placements to bother carrying them.

Get a pink and a red tricam. those will help.
You are going to want a set of small cams, green-red aliens, or whatever the free-climbing rated C3s are. Some folks carry metolius TCUs, but I find the double stems on those get in the way, and torque placements in weird angles.
Most narrow vertical crack at the gunks will slot a nut pretty well, so I would say you may be able to get away without small cams, but you won't see me without them.
The thing about gunks gear placements is precision. You can't just slot stuff wherever, you have to be very particular about where you put stuff.
Why are ya asking about that particular pitch?

dev


(This post was edited by devkrev on Jun 9, 2007, 12:19 PM)


krosbakken


Jun 9, 2007, 1:06 PM
Post #4 of 12 (1584 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 581

Re: [devkrev] CCK gear [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

devkrev wrote:
krosbakken wrote:
Get some small Hexes.

Have you ever been to the gunks?

The cracks at the gunks tend to be horizontal, flared, quartzy, and all around irregular, I have never been able to find enough solid hex placements to bother carrying them.

Get a pink and a red tricam. those will help.
You are going to want a set of small cams, green-red aliens, or whatever the free-climbing rated C3s are. Some folks carry metolius TCUs, but I find the double stems on those get in the way, and torque placements in weird angles.
Most narrow vertical crack at the gunks will slot a nut pretty well, so I would say you may be able to get away without small cams, but you won't see me without them.
The thing about gunks gear placements is precision. You can't just slot stuff wherever, you have to be very particular about where you put stuff.
Why are ya asking about that particular pitch?

dev


Ok nevermind don't get hexes. My bad.Wink


Partner rgold


Jun 9, 2007, 10:39 PM
Post #5 of 12 (1522 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804

Re: [abe_ascends] CCK gear [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

All you need for CCK is a standard set of nuts, including a piece for hands or thin hands. If all you are missing from your rack is really small cams, you shouldn't have any protection problems on CCK.


tradmanclimbs


Jun 11, 2007, 5:29 AM
Post #6 of 12 (1419 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599

Re: [rgold] CCK gear [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Isn't the pin gone from that tricky section at the start of pitch 2?? I remember useing a mid size cam there?


granite_grrl


Jun 11, 2007, 5:40 AM
Post #7 of 12 (1412 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

Re: [tradmanclimbs] CCK gear [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I used a couple of TCUs on the traverse because I don't like just trustin pins, and using a #1 Camalot in the flake after the traverse. But yeah, you don't really need anything big, and the only reason to carry anything smaller (I used a blue TCU) is to use it during that traverse.


Partner rgold


Jun 11, 2007, 7:22 AM
Post #8 of 12 (1361 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804

Re: [granite_grrl] CCK gear [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Oops, I realize I'm not sure about protecting the traverse if the piton or pitons aren't any good. It's been many years since I've done anything but the direct variation (which probably does need some medium cams).


tradmanclimbs


Jun 11, 2007, 7:30 AM
Post #9 of 12 (1345 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599

Re: [rgold] CCK gear [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I remeber the pins on the traverse up high to be pretty good. I am talking about the traverse down lower just off the grassy ledge.


granite_grrl


Jun 11, 2007, 7:35 AM
Post #10 of 12 (1339 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

Re: [rgold] CCK gear [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rgold wrote:
Oops, I realize I'm not sure about protecting the traverse if the piton or pitons aren't any good. It's been many years since I've done anything but the direct variation (which probably does need some medium cams).

the pin's pretty good if I recall, but I'd rather that not be the only thing to fall on. I'm sure there are people whose only peice on the traverse is that pin, but it wasn't my preferrance.

I've got a pic of myself on that traverse. I see a yellow TCU in a vertical crack, and then a blue TCU in a horizontal near the end. It was a fair bit of gear, but I wouldn't call it excessive.


elwood54


Jun 11, 2007, 7:43 AM
Post #11 of 12 (1325 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 8, 2005
Posts: 101

Re: [granite_grrl] CCK gear [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I asked someone who has led the last pitch just two days ago and he said that Alien Hybrids (off-set cams) are helpful.


boymeetsrock


Jun 11, 2007, 8:02 AM
Post #12 of 12 (1309 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709

Re: [abe_ascends] CCK gear [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

abe_ascends wrote:
Just a quick question. I'm thinking about leading CCK during a trip later this month. I've ordered a guidebook (but it hasn't showed up yet) and I checked the Routes DB and gunks.com for the information I'm looking for, but havne't found it.

Basically, I'd like to know what gear is needed for the third pitch of CCK. Nuts I've got, but I'm somewhat lacking on really small cams. Suggestions?

All you need is two LARGE brass nuts, placed square between your legs. Sly

The 3rd pitch traverse is very hard to protect as I remember. Nothing bigger than a pink tricam there (.5 -.75 inch). Once you've made the flake, large nuts will suffice but a #.75 - #1 camalot would help.

Have fun!
-Boy


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook