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abe_ascends
Jun 9, 2007, 4:45 AM
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Just a quick question. I'm thinking about leading CCK during a trip later this month. I've ordered a guidebook (but it hasn't showed up yet) and I checked the Routes DB and gunks.com for the information I'm looking for, but havne't found it.
Basically, I'd like to know what gear is needed for the third pitch of CCK. Nuts I've got, but I'm somewhat lacking on really small cams. Suggestions?
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krosbakken
Jun 9, 2007, 5:41 PM
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Get some small Hexes.
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devkrev
Jun 9, 2007, 6:37 PM
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krosbakken wrote: Get some small Hexes.
Have you ever been to the gunks?
The cracks at the gunks tend to be horizontal, flared, quartzy, and all around irregular, I have never been able to find enough solid hex placements to bother carrying them.
Get a pink and a red tricam. those will help.
You are going to want a set of small cams, green-red aliens, or whatever the free-climbing rated C3s are. Some folks carry metolius TCUs, but I find the double stems on those get in the way, and torque placements in weird angles.
Most narrow vertical crack at the gunks will slot a nut pretty well, so I would say you may be able to get away without small cams, but you won't see me without them.
The thing about gunks gear placements is precision. You can't just slot stuff wherever, you have to be very particular about where you put stuff.
Why are ya asking about that particular pitch?
dev
(This post was edited by devkrev on Jun 9, 2007, 7:19 PM)
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krosbakken
Jun 9, 2007, 8:06 PM
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devkrev wrote: krosbakken wrote: Get some small Hexes. Have you ever been to the gunks? The cracks at the gunks tend to be horizontal, flared, quartzy, and all around irregular, I have never been able to find enough solid hex placements to bother carrying them. Get a pink and a red tricam. those will help. You are going to want a set of small cams, green-red aliens, or whatever the free-climbing rated C3s are. Some folks carry metolius TCUs, but I find the double stems on those get in the way, and torque placements in weird angles. Most narrow vertical crack at the gunks will slot a nut pretty well, so I would say you may be able to get away without small cams, but you won't see me without them. The thing about gunks gear placements is precision. You can't just slot stuff wherever, you have to be very particular about where you put stuff. Why are ya asking about that particular pitch? dev
Ok nevermind don't get hexes. My bad.
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rgold
Jun 10, 2007, 5:39 AM
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All you need for CCK is a standard set of nuts, including a piece for hands or thin hands. If all you are missing from your rack is really small cams, you shouldn't have any protection problems on CCK.
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 11, 2007, 12:29 PM
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Isn't the pin gone from that tricky section at the start of pitch 2?? I remember useing a mid size cam there?
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granite_grrl
Jun 11, 2007, 12:40 PM
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I used a couple of TCUs on the traverse because I don't like just trustin pins, and using a #1 Camalot in the flake after the traverse. But yeah, you don't really need anything big, and the only reason to carry anything smaller (I used a blue TCU) is to use it during that traverse.
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rgold
Jun 11, 2007, 2:22 PM
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Oops, I realize I'm not sure about protecting the traverse if the piton or pitons aren't any good. It's been many years since I've done anything but the direct variation (which probably does need some medium cams).
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 11, 2007, 2:30 PM
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I remeber the pins on the traverse up high to be pretty good. I am talking about the traverse down lower just off the grassy ledge.
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granite_grrl
Jun 11, 2007, 2:35 PM
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rgold wrote: Oops, I realize I'm not sure about protecting the traverse if the piton or pitons aren't any good. It's been many years since I've done anything but the direct variation (which probably does need some medium cams).
the pin's pretty good if I recall, but I'd rather that not be the only thing to fall on. I'm sure there are people whose only peice on the traverse is that pin, but it wasn't my preferrance.
I've got a pic of myself on that traverse. I see a yellow TCU in a vertical crack, and then a blue TCU in a horizontal near the end. It was a fair bit of gear, but I wouldn't call it excessive.
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elwood54
Jun 11, 2007, 2:43 PM
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I asked someone who has led the last pitch just two days ago and he said that Alien Hybrids (off-set cams) are helpful.
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boymeetsrock
Jun 11, 2007, 3:02 PM
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abe_ascends wrote: Just a quick question. I'm thinking about leading CCK during a trip later this month. I've ordered a guidebook (but it hasn't showed up yet) and I checked the Routes DB and gunks.com for the information I'm looking for, but havne't found it. Basically, I'd like to know what gear is needed for the third pitch of CCK. Nuts I've got, but I'm somewhat lacking on really small cams. Suggestions?
All you need is two LARGE brass nuts, placed square between your legs. 
The 3rd pitch traverse is very hard to protect as I remember. Nothing bigger than a pink tricam there (.5 -.75 inch). Once you've made the flake, large nuts will suffice but a #.75 - #1 camalot would help.
Have fun!
-Boy
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