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natec
Jun 11, 2007, 8:26 PM
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I've written up the report for my Alaska trip that just ended. If you're looking for something to read check it out. I hope you ejoy.
Work and family safe but not much climbing in it....you'll read why.
http://nathansfixations.blogspot.com/...ska-trip-report.html
(This post was edited by natec on Jun 12, 2007, 2:55 AM)
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graniteboy
Jun 11, 2007, 9:52 PM
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Word to the wise; Most folks looking to climb in the Ruth region do their climbing in april or may. For the hot hot hot reasons you experienced up there.
(although it's plainly true that the wise need no words...it's the unwise who need the word)....
Good luck next time. The range ain't goin nowhere.
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natec
Jun 11, 2007, 10:50 PM
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graniteboy wrote: Word to the wise; Most folks looking to climb in the Ruth region do their climbing in april or may. For the hot hot hot reasons you experienced up there. (although it's plainly true that the wise need no words...it's the unwise who need the word).... Good luck next time. The range ain't goin nowhere.
That was the biggest lesson we learned. Thanks for offering the heads up though. When looking at the times of year that many of the ascents were made we thought that the end of May beginning of June was a little late but ok.
We were way off and we knew it right away. Next year I'm planning on going back April 15 or so.
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rangerrob
Jul 11, 2007, 3:13 PM
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Would end of April beginning of May be a good time to go to the Ruth? Possibly to do one of three objectives. Ham and Eggs, Peak 11,300, or the West face of Eye Tooth. We're starting to plan for next spring.
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hacksaw
Jul 11, 2007, 3:30 PM
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Yeah, in May I have had better luck then into June in the Ruth. April is colder and darker then middle of May. But, I have seen 6 - 8 feet of snowfall in May. Its always a crapshoot.... In 78' I waited 2 weeks in Talkeetna just to fly in....
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natec
Jul 21, 2007, 9:51 PM
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rangerrob wrote: Would end of April beginning of May be a good time to go to the Ruth? Possibly to do one of three objectives. Ham and Eggs, Peak 11,300, or the West face of Eye Tooth. We're starting to plan for next spring.
When I go back it will be during the time that you are considering. Our plans are to go around 4/20 and stay until 5/15. Anything earlier would be too prone to crappy weather and anything later would be too warm IMO.
The West Face of the Eye Tooth would be iffy during that time if you ask me. Too cold for quality rockclimbing. It seems as though there are two seasons in the Ruth, ice climbing and rock climbing and they are only seperated by about 2 weeks.
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rangerrob
Jul 31, 2007, 1:59 AM
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Yeah you know I just figured that out the other day. Probably not going to try a full length rock route that time of year. Still eyeing Ham and eggs, Peak 11,300, or whatever else doesn't scare the living shit out of us when we see it in real life. I have a feeling Ham and Eggs will be a big enough test for us. Anyone have personal experience in the Gorge I would be happy to hear about it.
RR
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natec
Jul 31, 2007, 2:12 AM
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In regards to the two routes you're looking at, if it's between the two of them you'll be forced to commit your plans to one or another.
The distance between the two, as well as the complicated/dangerous route up the root canal rules out all but the most determined group being able to check out both routes in one trip.
If you go early enough, there are quite a few more ice and snow routes down the Gorge that would be possible options. The 2006 American Alpine Journal is the best reference for the Ruth Gorge that I've found...
Too bad I bought it in the airport bookstore on the way home from Alaska.
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