|
crimpjunkie
Jun 21, 2007, 4:35 PM
Post #1 of 42
(39079 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2005
Posts: 40
|
Hi All -
I am leaving next weekend for a short trip to Rumney to get some climbing in. I did some research and found that the only Rumney specific guidebook published was "Rumney" by Ward Smith - 'was' being the operative word. As the book is currently out of print, I have only been able to locate this one copy (http://www.amazon.com/...182443009&sr=8-1) on Amazon.com for a 'mere' $125.
That said, does anyone know of another guidebook that might suit my purposes? Or better yet, does anyone have a copy of the afore mentioned guidebook they no longer use and are willing to get rid of for something more in the $20 range? Any help is definitely appreciated.
|
|
|
|
|
lwilson
Jun 21, 2007, 4:49 PM
Post #2 of 42
(39073 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2006
Posts: 101
|
there is a new guide coming out mid-late summer. I heard the publishing company asked to have all the old guides sent back, why ?, I don't know.
honestly, Rumney is always super busy on the weekends, so if you showed up, you can ask people where stuff is, and you'll do just fine. if you need directions to get there, let me know. or, I can sell my guide to you for a mere 100 bucks...a 25 dollar savings for you ! 
|
|
|
|
|
dlintz
Jun 21, 2007, 4:59 PM
Post #3 of 42
(39068 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
|
Is it too hot to climb there in mid August? I might be in the area around that time.
d.
|
|
|
|
|
lwilson
Jun 21, 2007, 5:18 PM
Post #4 of 42
(39063 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2006
Posts: 101
|
its warm, sometimes muggy. its the humidity that gets you. its a toss up...you can get a nice clear day, or get a hot muggy day (most likely the case) . if its muggy, go for a dip in the river after you're done climbing !
|
|
|
|
|
crimpjunkie
Jun 21, 2007, 5:20 PM
Post #5 of 42
(39062 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2005
Posts: 40
|
Thanks lwilson.
I have heard the same thing that you wrote, and it seems that the area is really not all that big (relatively). I just wanted to have a route 'itinerary' because this is the first and last time I am going to be able to get up there this summer and wanted to get a lot of climbing done in my short time there.
|
|
|
|
|
lwilson
Jun 21, 2007, 5:32 PM
Post #6 of 42
(39059 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2006
Posts: 101
|
welcome crimpjunkie.
what range of difficulty are you looking at ? I can help with good routes up to mid-11s. or heck !....make a new post asking for people's favorite rumney routes, and where they are located. you are right, the area is relatively small.
how long you gonna be up there ?
|
|
|
|
|
crimpjunkie
Jun 21, 2007, 5:52 PM
Post #7 of 42
(39046 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2005
Posts: 40
|
lwilson -
I have not really clipped bolts in the past, but I trad lead at about 5.7. I am anticipating being able to do a little bolder leads (for me) on some of area's clip & go routes (read about 5.9). My girlfriend (more towards whom this trip is geared and who has started leading on some 5.3-5.5 routes that I have pre-placed gear on) is looking to start off with the areas easiest routes and see what she can progressively push herself to do over the weekend. She is a strong climber on top rope, but this is a chance to develop her head game as well.
|
|
|
|
|
c4c
Jun 21, 2007, 6:30 PM
Post #8 of 42
(39032 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279
|
crimpjunkie wrote: Hi All - I am leaving next weekend for a short trip to Rumney to get some climbing in. I did some research and found that the only Rumney specific guidebook published was "Rumney" by Ward Smith - 'was' being the operative word. As the book is currently out of print, I have only been able to locate this one copy ( http://www.amazon.com/...182443009&sr=8-1) on Amazon.com for a 'mere' $125. That said, does anyone know of another guidebook that might suit my purposes? Or better yet, does anyone have a copy of the afore mentioned guidebook they no longer use and are willing to get rid of for something more in the $20 range? Any help is definitely appreciated.
Wow. I didn't realize that it was out of print. I just scored one a couple of weeks ago from my local shop for $25. I think that I got the last copy. But you can check with them- the mountaineer in Keene valley NY.
|
|
|
|
|
c4c
Jun 21, 2007, 6:45 PM
Post #9 of 42
(39021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279
|
You may want to call Climb High in Vt and see if they have a copy lying around. two locations 802-985-5055 or 802-865-0900
|
|
|
|
|
crimpjunkie
Jun 21, 2007, 7:17 PM
Post #10 of 42
(39010 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2005
Posts: 40
|
Hey c4c -
I called all 3 locations that you mentioned, but they were all out too. They were not aware of the publisher's 'recall', but it appears that some sort of recall is in place because I cannot find a single location that has it in stock (including mail order).
|
|
|
|
|
c4c
Jun 21, 2007, 7:29 PM
Post #11 of 42
(39004 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279
|
Are you going this weekend to the rumney ruckus? If so you are welcome to browse my copy.
|
|
|
|
|
c4c
Jun 21, 2007, 7:40 PM
Post #12 of 42
(38999 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279
|
I would check with chessler books too, they list it on their website. 800 654 8502
|
|
|
|
|
c4c
Jun 21, 2007, 7:50 PM
Post #14 of 42
(38990 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279
|
dlintz wrote: c4c wrote: I would check with chessler books too, they list it on their website. 800 654 8502 If his trip was next year and not next weekend I'd say check with Chessler.  d.
|
|
|
|
|
crimpjunkie
Jun 21, 2007, 7:51 PM
Post #15 of 42
(38990 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2005
Posts: 40
|
Chessler had it and they have shipped it out to me. Thanks alot for all the help.
|
|
|
|
|
jammer
Jul 1, 2007, 6:32 PM
Post #16 of 42
(38891 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3472
|
Well, I resurrected this thread to inform everyone that there are a few books available at The Clam Post Cafe, located about 100 yards from the parking lot. As I said, there are just a few left, so first come, first served.
Good Luck ...
|
|
|
|
|
lucander
Jul 1, 2007, 7:00 PM
Post #17 of 42
(38880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2003
Posts: 274
|
Two ideas:
Go to IME in North Conway, see if they have a copy
or
find Adventure Outfitters (hadley, Massachusetts), they have a big guidebook selection and not a lot of climbers who live nearby. I've seen over a dozen copies of this book on their shelf in the spring.
They also have the out of print Handren guide for Cathedral & Whitehorse.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Jul 1, 2007, 9:00 PM
Post #18 of 42
(38873 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
I looked at IME a few weeks ago briefly while we were waiting out some rain and i didn't think i saw any copies.. but you could always call to find out.
|
|
|
|
|
oquipah
Jul 6, 2007, 7:52 PM
Post #19 of 42
(38793 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2003
Posts: 4
|
Calm Post just a short walk from the Parking Lot had about 5 copies this past weekend (July 4th). They are in limited supply since a new/updated guidebook is slated for release. Also found 6-8 copies in downtown Plymouth at the outdoor shop.
Of course 'at the crag' route info seemed to be more than available and most people realize that the guidebook is harder to find and lend them out for review. Just note that since it's dated there may be new routes between those in the book.
|
|
|
|
|
rjman53
Aug 9, 2007, 10:11 AM
Post #20 of 42
(38543 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 14, 2006
Posts: 5
|
While searching for the guidebook that has gone out of print I came across ROCK CLIMBING NEW ENGLAND By Stewart Green. Says it covers a lot of areas and Rumney was included. Anyone know if its any good? I'm sure that having so many areas im one book it can't very comprehensive.
(This post was edited by rjman53 on Aug 9, 2007, 10:14 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Aug 9, 2007, 5:42 PM
Post #21 of 42
(38498 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Nooooo Rock climb NE does not have a great selection from Rumney and is even more out dated than the current Rumney guidebook. I wouldn't get it unless it had other stuff you were interested in. Best bet is to stop by Calm Post or the Rumney general store and hope they have them (or call first) or find someone at the rock with one and snag a glance. If you are there for a weekend this should be pretty easy.
|
|
|
|
|
Conan
Sep 1, 2007, 12:53 AM
Post #22 of 42
(38335 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 1, 2007
Posts: 4
|
Is the new guide book out yet? Do they have any instock @ the barn? Or should I hit North Conway for a guide?
|
|
|
|
|
nightlion
Sep 1, 2007, 1:14 AM
Post #23 of 42
(38328 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 31, 2004
Posts: 229
|
Won't find it in North Conway. I was up there a couple of weeks ago and no one had it then. They all said the same thing. OUT OF PRINT.
|
|
|
|
|
joeforte
Sep 1, 2007, 2:12 AM
Post #24 of 42
(38311 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
|
crimpjunkie wrote: lwilson - I have not really clipped bolts in the past, but I trad lead at about 5.7. I am anticipating being able to do a little bolder leads (for me) on some of area's clip & go routes (read about 5.9). My girlfriend (more towards whom this trip is geared and who has started leading on some 5.3-5.5 routes that I have pre-placed gear on) is looking to start off with the areas easiest routes and see what she can progressively push herself to do over the weekend. She is a strong climber on top rope, but this is a chance to develop her head game as well.
^^^Read Above^^^
Someone local has to help this guy out. I think with the route difficulty he is looking for, a weekend especially at rumney is not the best time/place to go... There is so much more rock around, especially in that difficulty range. Rumney tends to be hard, overhanging, and the "Easy" routes (which there aren't many of) will be PACKED on the weekends.
My girlfriend and I tried some easy stuff there, and were very dissapointed. If you do decide to go, Check out the Bonsai wall. There are a lot of 10's there that are BUCKET-FESTS. Bolts are close together, so you can clip,hang,repeat, if you are intimidated.
Don't let the grades intimidate you at Rumney. There are many 10's and 11's that are JUGS THE WHOLE WAY. The only reason for the high ratings is because they take a lot of endurance, but since it is bolted, you can comfortably get in way over your head.
Personally, we couldn't find any "quality" routes under 5.9 there, but I'm sure a local can help you out.
Good luck man! If you lead 5.7 trad, you can lead 5.10 at rumney for sure.... maybe not clean, but you'll get up them!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
dbrian56
Sep 1, 2007, 7:44 PM
Post #25 of 42
(38288 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2006
Posts: 16
|
Are there any maps online showing the locations of each cliff at least?
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
