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Faders Sum as roped solo device???
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addicted2alpine


Jun 27, 2007, 9:58 AM
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Faders Sum as roped solo device???
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Has anyone heard of this being used as a roped solo device?


lambone


Jun 27, 2007, 12:23 PM
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Re: [addicted2alpine] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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I haven't but I am sure it works fine. Faders claims it provides a more dynamic catch which would be good.

I read a review in a mag that said it is sticky with thicker ropes, so that might prevent the rope-slip issue that the gri-gri has.


billcoe_


Jul 20, 2007, 8:52 AM
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Re: [lambone] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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DO NOT USE IT FOR THIS.

You will be dorry.

Use a Gri Gri, knots on the rope, Cinch, or any of the fine soloist type of products made by Wren first.

http://www.wrenindustries.com/

I'm not kidding.


billcoe_


Jul 20, 2007, 8:56 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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Dorry = sorry

DOHHH!


lambone


Jul 20, 2007, 9:45 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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why?

any explination...?

btw- Malcom Daily of Trango has specifically warned against using the Cinch for soloing on this website.


(This post was edited by lambone on Jul 20, 2007, 7:39 PM)


healyje


Jul 20, 2007, 4:15 PM
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Re: [billcoe_] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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Bill, don't know anything about the SUM, but I'm disinclined to use the Cinch given the sissors action of it's shell. The Edelrid Eddy is what I've switched to from my old grigri system.


skinner


Jul 22, 2007, 3:47 AM
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Re: [addicted2alpine] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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Although I've never heard of it, I can't see why it would be any less effective then a Gri-Gri, I own both and as a belay device the Sum is a little easier to feed, works better on smaller diameter ropes, and definitely gives a softer catch.
However, I've never tried it as a solo device only because the Gri-Gri is easier to rig. The Gri-Gri has space.. more spare meat, errr.. I mean "plastic" to drill holes in all the right places, which is why it tends to be the preferred device for most.

If one could figure out how to rig a Sum so that it would sit right (and still catch you), I can't see why it wouldn't work as well, but I figured I'd Google it to see if maybe someone had tried it and came up with this:

The Potentiometer (fader) controls the gain of the device controlled by the ... To cue a device without routing it to any program bus, use the solo or cue ...

I guess that doesn't help much huh?

Disclaimer:
skiner wrote:
I'm not recommending anyone modify their gear, or solo, or even climb for that matter, as this is only theoretical chatter interspersed with copious amounts of noise here on rc.com


healyje


Jul 22, 2007, 6:32 PM
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Re: [skinner] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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I've never used the grigri chest mod as I despise having anything connecting my waist and chest that way. I just ran it off my belay loop and it always worked fine - I do the same with the Eddy which could almost be considered as designed for roped soloing compared to a grigri.


billcoe_


Jul 25, 2007, 1:19 PM
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Re: [healyje] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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healyje does laps and laps leading with this stuff. Trust him, get a Eddy if thats what he says.

Matt: a picture is worth a 1000 words, I'll try and post one later and all will be clear.

I know that Conrad Anker or someone like that was so impressed with a sum FOR BELAYING, but trust me, if you insist on using one for roped soloing, even toproping, pay close attention to how the the handle interacts with your biner, use one of those crossloading plastic devices and/or keep your backup knots short.

(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Jul 25, 2007, 1:21 PM)


lambone


Jul 26, 2007, 8:07 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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laps and laps are great...I solo big walls.

still haven't answered my question. crossloding biners and interferance with the handle are issues that the gri-gri and eldrid device also have.

anyone out there actualy use one for soloing?


(This post was edited by lambone on Jul 26, 2007, 8:09 AM)


healyje


Jul 28, 2007, 4:24 PM
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Re: [lambone] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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lambone wrote:
laps and laps are great...I solo big walls.

still haven't answered my question. crossloding biners and interferance with the handle are issues that the gri-gri and eldrid device also have.

anyone out there actualy use one for soloing?

Crossloading biners should never be an issue with a grigri because you shouldn't be using a biner with it for soloing but a burly mallion rapide off your belay loop (unless using one of the chest mods). The Eddy has this issue and should also only be used off the belay loop and either backed up with a dyneema sling or just it tie in with double slings or some other method. The Sum would appear to work with a mallion rapide and that would definitely be the only way I'd consider using one of them for soloing.

"Interference with the handle is a non-issue with the Eddy as even if pulled it will drop off the cam as it only releases in the middle of it's range - not at either end. I have no concerns whatsoever with the handle. The Sum handle on the otherhand looks to be far more problematic then the one on the grigri.


addicted2alpine


Jul 31, 2007, 4:49 PM
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Re: [healyje] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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i think this turned out to be fairly good discussion on this subject but just for reference, I bought an Eddy and have been messing around with it as a roped solo rig and it seems to work pretty well. better than my few trials with a gri-gri


artifoatope


Aug 25, 2007, 9:35 AM
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Re: [addicted2alpine] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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Instead of making so many inventions, if the that you search him security, you use specific devices (soloist, etc) to climb soloWink


davidji


Aug 25, 2007, 10:50 AM
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Re: [lambone] Faders Sum as roped solo device??? [In reply to]
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lambone wrote:
I read a review in a mag that said it is sticky with thicker ropes, so that might prevent the rope-slip issue that the gri-gri has.

The higher friction with thicker ropes (maybe 10mm and above) means it's hard to use. I wouldn't expect it to feed well.

As far as rapping, I've only descended a 10mm line with it and the effort was too high. It might be less on a thinner rope.

I was actually thinking of getting ride of mine (even with my 9.5 main single, I don't prefer it to the Grigri), but now I have a Sterling Nano 9.2, and I don't think the Grigri is an option there. Not that I need an auto-locking device with that rope.

FWIW, it even works fine on my 8.4. Barely relevant, since the rare times that got used as a single I was trying to reduce weight.


(This post was edited by davidji on Aug 25, 2007, 12:41 PM)


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