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papounet
Jun 27, 2007, 9:40 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2003
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Rgold has postulated that one of the reasons anchor failure are not that numerous is because anchors are to tested by ff2 on them. statistically, if they are 10 piece of protection per pitch, the probability that a fall will occur with zero protection holding is rather low.
In the report below, you ll find a catastrophic failure caused by : individual pieces not strong enough compounded by a rigging system that caused sequential loading.
In reply to: Eric now realizes he made a grave error in not creating an equalized, narrow angled, no extension, redundant, bombproof belay anchor. As he fell, all of the force came on one nut at a time in sequence as his protection pulled from the rock. He then broke the single spectra sling stretched 120 degrees horizontally and clipped in “an American triangle” only on one side as it raked across the rough volcanic rock. As he pulled his belayer off the ledge, the single medium sized anchor nut and two small brass nuts exploded from the rock.
The complete report (remarquably written)
http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/...ashington_Seyler.htm
The survival of the two climber despite their injuries is a tribute to their spirit.
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majid_sabet
Jun 27, 2007, 10:09 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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Please change the topic since this is 7 years old
This should not be a surprise
In reply to: He then broke the single spectra sling stretched 120 degrees horizontally and clipped in “an American triangle” only on one side as it raked across the rough volcanic rock. As he pulled his belayer off the ledge, the single medium sized anchor nut and two small brass nuts exploded from the rock
Edit: I do not think this belongs to LAB
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jun 28, 2007, 12:33 AM)
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billl7
Jun 27, 2007, 10:48 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
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Appropriate forum aside, I don't mind seeing the article resurface after all these years. It's very good reading material for someone new to traditional climbing; it should raise many questions in the inexperienced. So much was wrong about that adventure that it's difficult to emphasize much more than the fundamentals of protection. I am greatful for their account and hope that their injuries have largely resolved.
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chris_winter
Jun 28, 2007, 12:15 AM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2006
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Pretty sure I cleaned some of their tat from that belay station a year or two after that accident on the way to the chimney of space. Dark and scary in there.
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