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yorb
Jun 29, 2007, 10:57 PM
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I've just begun building a trad rack, I got a set of BD stoppers. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what size cams are going to benifit me the most in the New River Gorge. Also, Metolius hexes or BD, or other?
Also, if anyone knows of a few good all passive routes in the NRG, preferably around 5.7-5.8. I have led about 5-6 trad routes out here on a friends rack, but he's no longer around.
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ja1484
Jun 29, 2007, 11:07 PM
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J_ung is the man you want to talk to about this. In my somewhat limited experience of New River trad, Camalots .4 to 3 seemed to be the most useful sizes, generally speaking. Most of the crack climbs I've been on up there eat hexes, and TriCams are nice on certain climbs, although not necessarily as "magic key" as they are here in Noaf Cackalacky.
So, from what I've done of trad up there, roughly .5" to 3" cams seem to be the most useful.
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brushman
Jun 29, 2007, 11:25 PM
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Judging from your NRG "Ascent Log," you should have a pretty good idea of what gear is most appropriate for specific routes. If not, TR the routes again, within your grade-range, and judge for your self....this time using a "leader's eye." Doing so will be a great way for you to learn, and, what type of gear YOU like best. (Remember, pro selection & placement can be quite subjective, and every climber has their own style and preference.)
(Of course, it goes without saying....practice placing gear while safely on the ground, and/or on top rope.)
(Edited for clarity.)
(This post was edited by brushman on Jun 30, 2007, 12:19 AM)
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yorb
Jun 29, 2007, 11:48 PM
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Yea, thats kind of what I thought for cam size. I just got a set of .5-3 tricams, so hopefully that will increase my route options, although I can always just run it out if I don't quite have the gear... For now its just going to be a little bit of gear with each paycheck.
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deschamps1000
Jun 29, 2007, 11:54 PM
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Yorb-
Don't buy hexes. You will regret it in a few months. Seriously. Just be patient and spend the money on cams. .5 to 3 is a good range. eventually you'll want to double up on some of the middle sizes in there. Enjoy. The NRG is my favorite crag in the US.
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ja1484
Jun 30, 2007, 12:14 AM
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deschamps1000 wrote: Yorb- Don't buy hexes. You will regret it in a few months. Seriously. Just be patient and spend the money on cams. .5 to 3 is a good range. eventually you'll want to double up on some of the middle sizes in there. Enjoy. The NRG is my favorite crag in the US.
Bull. Get hexes. They'll serve you well in many excellent climbing areas, the Gunks and pretty much anywhere in North Carolina to name a couple.
Hexes rock. No pun intended.
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deschamps1000
Jun 30, 2007, 1:13 AM
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Hexes or not? Here is how to settle that...
Next time you go to a crag, compare the number of cams on peoples rack to the number of hexes on peoples rack. That should give you an idea of how useful both are.
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ja1484
Jun 30, 2007, 1:23 AM
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deschamps1000 wrote: Hexes or not? Here is how to settle that... Next time you go to a crag, compare the number of cams on peoples rack to the number of hexes on peoples rack. That should give you an idea of how useful both are.
More like how dependent some people are.
A lot of folks I know that are cam advocates couldn't place a hex if you asked them to.
Cams are essential equipment, there's no denying that, but in certain necks of the woods, hexes are abso-frickin-lutely fantastic. Don't bother coming to Carolina without 'em.
Aside from that, more to the point, gear *is* preferential to the user and the location. Hexes can be put to good use at the New, and they're lighter and much less expensive than cams. Should these be priorities of the OP, they're there for his consideration. If not, no one's making him buy them.
Funny, as I've got a few medium hexes racked up for a daytrip tomorrow. Nothin' beats a keyed one for bomber :)
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Jun 30, 2007, 1:31 AM)
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northernguide
Jun 30, 2007, 1:26 AM
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Give Doce Doe (5.6) a try. It's a good route for the beginning leader. The first pitch is 5.6, the 2nd is 5.9 but you can back off at the belay. I think it's on the Central Endless wall, correct me if I'm wrong. Haven't climbed there in years.
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brushman
Jun 30, 2007, 1:49 AM
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ja1484 wrote: deschamps1000 wrote: Yorb- Don't buy hexes. You will regret it in a few months. Seriously. Just be patient and spend the money on cams. .5 to 3 is a good range. eventually you'll want to double up on some of the middle sizes in there. Enjoy. The NRG is my favorite crag in the US. Bull. Get hexes. They'll serve you well in many excellent climbing areas, the Gunks and pretty much anywhere in North Carolina to name a couple. Hexes rock. No pun intended.
As I said, "pro selection and placement can be quite subjective." 
However, in my experience, the few times I've seen hexes being used at the New, the inevitable scenario usually involved a penny-pinching nOOb struggling desparately to effectively place one! (Typically, the results are not good.) Of course, competency comes through experience. And sure, it is worthwhile to learn to place hexes, but sooner or later, you'll be leaving them in your pack, atleast at the New.
Have to go with deschamps1000 here...."Don't buy hexes. You will regret it in a few months...."
But again, it's YOUR choice, and YOUR $$$!
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medicus
Jul 1, 2007, 9:31 PM
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How many "few months" are we speaking? I haven't regretted having hexes yet. Nothing feels better than a bomber hex placement, especially if a cam in the similar spot would have walking issues. I agree with Jay on this one. I think it may be a cam dependent issue. The climbers around here who actually do trad routes have talked about how they climbed with hexes for years, and then finally bought a full set of cams. They still climb with their hexes and have even restrung their hexes a time or two because they get so much use. So if you are speaking that the few months are roughly 72 or more, then maybe I can't speak about what I have seen others do. I've had mine for several months, and I still love them. I may be a noob with trad leading, but I don't have any issues with not having enough cams. I think the generalization here that only noobs struggling for gear buy hexes is 100% inaccurate. In fact, I've seen more noobs around refusing to use or even consider hexes than I have ones that use hexes.
(This post was edited by medicus on Jul 1, 2007, 9:48 PM)
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brushman
Jul 2, 2007, 12:35 PM
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Glad you like your hexes and they work for you. Many folks use them, nOOb and experienced. (...again, pro being a subjective choice, what one first learns with, competency, etc...) I was just stating what I USUALLY see at the NRG.
Use what you will and have fun!
(edited for grammar...)
(This post was edited by brushman on Jul 3, 2007, 2:07 AM)
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forkliftdaddy
Jul 2, 2007, 4:29 PM
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Agreed. No regret on the hexes (6-9) I've been using them for about 7 years. A great hex placement or two can be found on Spider Wand, Englishman's Crack, and the Marionette. Not exactly noob routes.
Besides, hexes work great in the alpine setting.
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j_ung
Jul 3, 2007, 2:04 PM
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forkliftdaddy wrote: Agreed. No regret on the hexes (6-9) I've been using them for about 7 years. A great hex placement or two can be found on Spider Wand, Englishman's Crack, and the Marionette. Not exactly noob routes.
And yet, all three of those go just fine without a single hex.
It really does depend on the route, BUT I think I place my yellow TCUs far more than any other single piece. That's about equal to a gray Camalot. Two weekends ago, I finally sent a longstanding project, an overhanging, mostly wide crack. Crux piece: yellow TCU. 
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justroberto
Jul 3, 2007, 4:37 PM
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yorb
Jul 4, 2007, 3:43 AM
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I got a red C4 a couple days ago and my tricams should be here tomorrow or the next day. I've been climbing some routes that I've done before just to refresh myself a little on gear placement. All on a set of stoppers and a #1 C4 :)
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j_ung
Jul 4, 2007, 3:56 AM
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Hell yeah, dood. That's the way to go and get it. 
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dontmaytagme
Jul 7, 2007, 6:49 AM
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j_ung wrote: forkliftdaddy wrote: Agreed. No regret on the hexes (6-9) I've been using them for about 7 years. A great hex placement or two can be found on Spider Wand, Englishman's Crack, and the Marionette. Not exactly noob routes. And yet, all three of those go just fine without a single hex. It really does depend on the route, BUT I think I place my yellow TCUs far more than any other single piece. That's about equal to a gray Camalot. Two weekends ago, I finally sent a longstanding project, an overhanging, mostly wide crack. Crux piece: yellow TCU.
Better than that TCU hanging in your kitchen.
The yellow TCU is by far the most common piece that I've always been without at the New and wished I had another.
Nice work on completing this project, if I recall correctly which it is.
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jeremy11
Jul 8, 2007, 12:35 AM
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hexes - get the biggest 3-4 Wild Country hexes on dyneema. not as versatile as cams but they are better in loose rock areas since they dont exert nearly the outward force as cams. there are lots of hex only spots in the NRG and elsewhere like really weird constrictions where cams just dont get the cam contact necessary. I prefer DMM cams since they are cheaper and lighter than BD, but BDs are super sweet of course. maybe pick up a finger size piece too like my trango #3 or the #2 TCU.
or just come to the San Juans and climb on my rack
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yorb
Jul 8, 2007, 3:24 AM
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yea, that would be nice if I had the time. Although I am off from August 13th til whenever school starts up again.
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