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wzrdgandalf
Jul 3, 2007, 8:22 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 261
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On an extremely boring day I decided to look around on 8a.nu to kill time. I noticed that most people have a range of boulder grades where they can feasibly send. Personally I can flash most if not all V2s that I get on, send V3's in a few goes if not a flash, send V4's with a decent amount of working/goes, and then send a V5 when I project for a few days or so.
My question is.... is the range for sending larger, smaller, or the same when the grades increase. I want to know what other people have as a range. I know from 8a that Daniel woods and Dave graham have on occasion have second tried a V13 and then projected a V15 for long periods of time. I know a lot of it has to do with the style of the problem as well. Im just interested in general trends that other people see with their own climbing.
P.s. I am in no way condoning grade-chasing, Grades are subjective and vary greatly. Because they vary it makes it an interesting topic to see peoples ranges.
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zionvier
Jul 3, 2007, 9:16 PM
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Registered: Mar 17, 2003
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Friendly suggestion.... If you're looking for strictly bouldering trends then I'd personally post in the bouldering forum. That's about all the useful help I can offer unfortunately.
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dhaulagiri
Jul 3, 2007, 11:39 PM
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I think you would find a similar trend as you move up the scale. It is slightly different for people like DW and DG because the problems that are super hard for them haven't ever been categorized before really because nobody has ever done anything that hard before.
For us normal folk I think that your sort of range is probably accurate for bouldering depending on the style of the problem of course.
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kriso9tails
Jul 4, 2007, 12:01 AM
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For me, the rate at which harder grades become doable is faster than the rate at which previous doable grades become flash-able.
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nika
Jul 4, 2007, 12:19 AM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2003
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interesting question. my impression is that it generally gets larger as you start to go into higher #'s.
but another (possibly more important) thing to think about is that this can actually vary a lot from climber to climber. some climbers really like projecting hard things for them. so climber #1 will work a v5 over and over until they eventually send it, but still not be super solid on, say, v3's. other people don't really like working things, and might move on if they don't send something within one or two tries. so, climber #2 might have done tons and tons of v3's, and be better at them than climber #1, but never have done a v4. most people probably fall somewhere in between. there's probably lots of conversation to be had about whether climber #1 or #2 is better, though...
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flint
Jul 4, 2007, 1:52 AM
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Registered: Jun 21, 2007
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kriso9tails wrote: For me, the rate at which harder grades become doable is faster than the rate at which previous doable grades become flash-able.
Agreed, I am pretty good at sequencing sport on the deck, but flashing a boulder problem normally takes a try or two to get the movement, not to say I haven't flashed threes, it is still kind of rare. But, I have no problem projecting on a V5 and V6.
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