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Tuwie
Jul 7, 2007, 2:37 AM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2007
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Anyone have one?
I know its not published anymore and I have been searching all over the place to find one with no luck. I don't even remember the actual name of it now.
My last thought is to see if the library in little falls has it and maybe I can photocopy the pages I need.
If anyone has one and wouldn't mind scanning/copying a few pages for me I would greatly appreciate it.
Send me a PM if you can help me.
Thanks
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Tuwie
Jul 9, 2007, 3:11 AM
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Someone was kind enough to send me a scanned copy of the pages from the original guidebook. While it may be out of date it certainly better than nothing.
Thanks to those of you who sent me a PM.
I will trying to organizing the pages and comparing the routes with those listed on here.
If anyone need a copy of the scan let me know. I might even work on an updated version with my climbing partner.
Thanks again everyone.
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LostinMaine
Jul 9, 2007, 4:25 PM
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Registered: May 8, 2007
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be careful with sandbagging! A lot of the routes listed in the guidebook are horribly underrated. Some stuff in the Dihedrals is 2-3 grades stiffer than what the guide would like you to believe.
ahh... the days of climbing in little falls....
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sbaclimber
Jul 9, 2007, 9:18 PM
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LostinMaine wrote: Some stuff in the Dihedrals is 2-3 grades stiffer than what the guide would like you to believe. 
I know there hasn't been a readily available guide book for years, so no-one will know the difference if you change the grades, but it is almost tradition to sandbag at least a little bit in places like the Gunks, which is close by. So, it would be a bit of a shame to "dumb down" established climbs by raising the grades too much. It is all subjective anyway.
As long as the route is fairly well protected, I wouldn't change the grade....much. If it is X and sandbagged by 2 grades, then just to be fair (safe?), I might bump up the grade a bit.
Just my $.02
Btw, Tuwie, if you and your climbing partner are serious about making an updated guide (not just changing grades, I mean finding/climbing new routes, contacting the FAs or others to get details, etc), and you need someone to do data entry from the old guide, let me know.
PS, you might want to start with asking Geoffrey Childs for permission, and any new info he might be aware of.
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Tuwie
Jul 9, 2007, 10:50 PM
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Thanks for the replies. First of all, I have no interest in changing the grades of anything at this point. Although I think it would be nice to have a somewhat up to date guidebook without bringing little falls into the limelight so to speak.
The main thing I would like to do Is identify all the older routes that are in the guidebook, as well as compare them to the new routes and routes on here that are listed.
I am completely for giving credit where credit is due. I have not found anyway of contacting the original guidebook author or any of individuals who completed the first ascents. There are a quite a few routes that aren't listed either here or in the guidebook, if anyone wants to share the route information that would be great also.
I would still like to talk to a few more of the regular climbers at little falls and see what thier thought are updating the guidebook. Even though little falls doesnt have the big multi pitch climbs, I still think its a nice little place to climb.
Any help towards gathering this information or contacting the original author (Geoffrey Childs) would be greatly appreciated. Any information on first ascents and other routes would also help.
Thanks
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jackflash
Jul 10, 2007, 12:34 AM
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I've always found the railroad crags, such as the Dihedrals, to actually be a little soft when compared to Moss Island ratings. Some of them should be downgraded. There's only a few routes on the Island that could use an update. I think Mother's Day Mayhem is the only 5.4 I've ever had to do with a heel hook.
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LostinMaine
Jul 11, 2007, 1:08 AM
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sbaclimber wrote: ... but overall I wouldn't consider the grades "horribly underrated"...
As for Moss Island being stiffer, I don't know. I only led "Jeff Loves Eileen" and "Goat Crack" there and they both seemed up to par. I TRed everything else. I led most stuff in the Dihedrals, and between the sparse gear and stiff grades, I thought it was sandbagged. Perhaps not... I'm also tapping back about 8 years, so I could be off course...
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sbaclimber
Jul 11, 2007, 9:51 PM
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Tuwie wrote: Any help towards gathering this information or contacting the original author (Geoffrey Childs)
(probably isn't valid anymore, 17yrs later...)
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Tuwie
Jul 11, 2007, 11:49 PM
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Actually, I haven't even tried it yet. I have been rather busy so I have not had a chance. I was thinking I would gather all the information I could before I went forward with anything.
I am headed out to LF tomorrow(thurs) and will be checking out the area around the dihedral's more and trying to identify everything. I also want to get the chance to talk to the regulars and see what their thoughts are.
Thanks for the help and information so far, it has been greatly appreciated.
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grinspoon
Jul 12, 2007, 2:57 PM
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A couple years ago I spoke with Gary, the old dude who paid for all the new hardware at the Dihedrals. He said he had contacted the original guidebook author and was given permission to reprint the old guide and make a new one. He even showed me some sketches he drew up. Your best bet would be to contact him.
For now, I've been working on the Little Falls database for MountainProject.com. MP is the new standard for online route databases, RC is fucking worthless and is even worse since the major changes. If you have photos of climbs in Little Falls, add the routes to the MP database. I wanna try to create an online database that is actually useful...not just names, grades and vague descriptions.
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Adk
Jul 12, 2007, 10:02 PM
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I talked to the author just last
week of the new guidebook of Moss Island that is due to be out buy the fall of 2008 He is a local from this area and may have a deal worked out with Little Falls somehow.
I got a quick glimpse of a copy of the book as he put it away. Color photos are in it from what I have seen.
I asked him about re-grading routes as well as a few other things. He said no way would he re-rate the grades for historical reasons yet it will be noted in the new book. It will have many new routes in it as well he said. Many of these route will have many other variations that have been developed over the past 20+ years.
I'll see if I can find out more.
(This post was edited by Adk on Jul 12, 2007, 10:07 PM)
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Tuwie
Jul 12, 2007, 11:49 PM
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I am glad to hear that there is a new guidebook already in the works. To be honest, it would have taken me a long time to be able to get one done anyways, having a baby on the way and all.
I will eagerly look forward to this, as I have been trying to piece together what I could from a previous guidebook and routes listed online.
Thanks for the information, I will keep an eye out for it when it comes out.
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Tuwie
Jul 12, 2007, 11:51 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2007
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grinspoon wrote: A couple years ago I spoke with Gary, the old dude who paid for all the new hardware at the Dihedrals. He said he had contacted the original guidebook author and was given permission to reprint the old guide and make a new one. He even showed me some sketches he drew up. Your best bet would be to contact him. For now, I've been working on the Little Falls database for MountainProject.com. MP is the new standard for online route databases, RC is fucking worthless and is even worse since the major changes. If you have photos of climbs in Little Falls, add the routes to the MP database. I wanna try to create an online database that is actually useful...not just names, grades and vague descriptions.
I will gather what I have and talk to my climbing partner who was taking some pics today, we were going to try and get some new pics of everything just so we could figure out all the routes. I will check out mountainproject.com and see what I can contribute.
Thanks again for the info.
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