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calfcramp
Jul 12, 2007, 2:54 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2003
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Hey,
Went to the gym last night and made a discovery. I gots weak hands.
I climb tougher face climbs than the people I climb with, but as soon as a route gets steep, I suck. I don't have the strength.
It seems that as long as my fingertips are lower than my 2nd knuckle, (like on a crimper, say) I can pull hard, but once my fingers are at a 90 degree angle to my palm or more, I'm worthless.
I can climb up to 5.10 on face climbs, but as soon as a route becomes overhanging, I can barely get up a 5.7. My hands stop working.
Is more bouldering the key? It seems to be the solution to everything...
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monkeychild
Jul 12, 2007, 3:18 PM
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I sorta had that same problem..... untill I injured my finger and couldn't use crimps for a month. That forced me to stick to slopy stuff and build up more hand strength. The best way to get stronger is to work on your weaknesses, so just climb lots of slopy routes, and lots of overhanging routes.
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mturner
Jul 12, 2007, 3:24 PM
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How do you know it's your fingers and hands? Do your fingers open up? It's possible that you lack the other skills necessary for overhanging routes such as body tension (core strength), and the techniques for overhanging routes are quite different as well.
Whatever the case, go the obvious way...climb more overhanging routes. Doesn't have to be bouldering but that will help too.
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percious
Jul 12, 2007, 3:54 PM
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Registered: May 19, 2005
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You might just have bad overhanging technique. Try keeping your arms straight on the hangs and push more with your legs. Don't climb like a T-Rex.
-percious
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sdkbcassidy
Jul 12, 2007, 4:16 PM
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It was very interesting how you described this. I’d guess your problem is not your hands/fingers or how hard you can pull, it’s your technique. Do a search on “steep climb”, you’ll get all sorts of helpful advice on how to climb steep routes. My personal opinion, ignore the suggestions on the pull ups.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 12, 2007, 4:44 PM
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I think you are describing two different problems.
One is crimp vs. sloper, with sloper being more difficult for you.
And the other one is overhang vs. vertical.
But I agree with others-- train what you want to improve ( e.i. climb more slopers and overhangs), and pay attention to technique.
P.S. I am a bit surprised to read a question like this from someone who has been climbing for 5 years...
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calfcramp
Jul 12, 2007, 5:26 PM
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Well, referring the the 5 years, bear in mind my other thread at the campfire. It's been a very on and off 5 years.
The thing that made me think it was hands vs fingers is that at the end of the night, we all tried to do 1, just 1 pull up on the hangboard using the finger holds. The other 2 people I was with could do one, but I couldn't. I could get my fingers in 2 knuckles deep, but the surface was horizontal. Once I could wrap my fingers around a hold of the same depth, but more "positive", I could do one.
(the other people I was with were my GF who is a real beginner, and a guy I brought to try out climbing for the first time.)
I had been climbing harder routes than them all night...
It suppose it's a matter of doing more routes with slopy holds. I hate slopy holds. They are my nemisisisis
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summerprophet
Jul 12, 2007, 5:40 PM
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I am week as hell, but give the impression of a strong climber. My advice to you on overhanging routes? Climb those puppies fast. Dial out the moves before you get on it, spot the rests and move. My arms have a limited strength lifespan, and overhangs are no place to hang out and work though stuff.
Fast and Sloppy man, Fast and Sloppy.
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rc_vinay
Jul 12, 2007, 5:50 PM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2005
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calfcramp wrote: Is more bouldering the key? It seems to be the solution to everything...
no but simply developing strength and power by doing endurance in gym...
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