Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Prodigal Son on a Weekday?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


petey23


Jul 12, 2007, 1:36 PM
Post #1 of 6 (1382 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 28, 2006
Posts: 31

Prodigal Son on a Weekday?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What are the chances of getting on Prodigal Son on a weekday in the fall without other parties. It'll be my first wall and I don't want to tie up other parties. I can get down there on a Monday or some other mid-week day.

Reasonable expectation or should I expect at least one other group to be around me? Looking at either September or October. Either one.


mandrake


Jul 12, 2007, 2:16 PM
Post #2 of 6 (1361 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2004
Posts: 188

Re: [petey23] Prodigal Son on a Weekday? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yer chances will improve if you do it earlier in September. We did it a couple years ago right after the temps dropped from triple digits into the 90's. It was perfect, all shaded (Prodigal Sun, get it?) and not a soul in sight.

Your other option (and this has worked for us, too) is to go up the canyon in the afternoon with topos and gear for any of the trade routes. Fix three or so on whatever's open and jug up in the dark the next morning and get 'er done that day.

Also, if you see people on first pitch, don't be shy about asking them their plans. Some people just crag on the first pitch or two (Ron O has a rant about that floating around here somewhere: people wearing out the first pitches of the trade routes). You'll especially find this on Touchstone and the 5.9 start of Spaceshot, cuz you don't have to cross the river.

Unsolicited advice: don't haul on Prodigal, there's a sandy gully at the end that would be hellish to haul and you'd likely drop large rocks on parties below. It's very doable in a day, and certainly if you fix three or so and fire. Have fun.


petey23


Jul 12, 2007, 2:49 PM
Post #3 of 6 (1347 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 28, 2006
Posts: 31

Re: [mandrake] Prodigal Son on a Weekday? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

meant to note in my original post that I wouldn't be hauling. I'll either fix or bivy on the ledge at the top of p3. I don't mind sleeping uncomfortably, and then jug with a light pack (light sleeping bag, small pad, and that's about it other than water).

I don't mind suffering some. Would November be better in terms of traffic? I've been in Zion in December, but never November, so I'm not sure how it would be. There were a few parties on walls in December, but I don't think prodigal son was one of them.....too cold methinks.


mandrake


Jul 12, 2007, 4:54 PM
Post #4 of 6 (1323 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2004
Posts: 188

Re: [petey23] Prodigal Son on a Weekday? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sorry, didn't mean to assume you were hauling. Of the two shoulder seasons, if you're totally committed to Prodigal, I'd go with early in September over November just because the days are longer and it's more pleasant to cross the river and do the route when it's warm. But, I haven't been there in November, so I'm not sure how the temps are.

The thing about early September is that you really don't want to be in the sun, so it kinda commits you to Prodigal. In November, you'll be seeking sun, so that gives you more options to just show up and figure out your route once you see who's on what. Also, the shuttle stops running Oct 29, so you can drive up canyon without a permit in November (freedom!).

Just some things to think about. Good luck.


a.a.


Jul 13, 2007, 10:49 PM
Post #5 of 6 (1257 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 23, 2004
Posts: 74

Re: [petey23] Prodigal Son on a Weekday? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I climbed PS last November. In the week and a half I was in Zion I think I only saw one other party on it. So don't worry about crowds but be prepared for the cold as the route did not get any sunlight.


epic_ed


Jul 16, 2007, 12:25 PM
Post #6 of 6 (1205 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: [a.a.] Prodigal Son on a Weekday? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would think your chances are pretty good during the week, even if you run into another party or two. If you have a flexible schedule your chances are greatest. Prodigal SUN is definitely a route that can be done in fix-and-blast fashion. That's one of the benefits of most of the trade routes in Zion -- fix a couple of pitches on day one, head back to camp and into town for a nice meal and some refreshments, then head back up the route at the crack of dawn and climb until it's done. October would be a good time to go -- the temps cool off nicely. But, if you can get a good weather window (likely) during early Nov. they stop running the mandatory shuttle service at the end of October and you can get a permit to drive/park if you're climbing up Valley.

Ed


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$17.95 (10% off)
$152.95 (10% off)
$53.96 (10% off)
$44.96 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook