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Funkness Test
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wanderlustmd


Jul 19, 2007, 2:58 PM
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Funkness Test
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I was reading Jared Ogden's Big Wall book and found some good info, one thing being the funkness test as an alternative to the standard bounce test. This seems like a brilliant idea, as it creates no unecessary force on the piece you are already on in the event that the tested piece fails. Has anyone utilized this on hard aid? Are there any significant shortcomings?

It seems to me that a standard bounce test would be more thorough, and there are several points where Ogden recommends using a regular bounce test (enough that I started to wonder why he had mentioned the funkness test in the first place). Still seems like a good idea though...


(This post was edited by wanderlustmd on Jul 19, 2007, 2:59 PM)


johnathon78


Jul 19, 2007, 3:03 PM
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Re: [wanderlustmd] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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hahha....your right...banana's truly are a gift from god.


rocknice2


Jul 19, 2007, 4:54 PM
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Re: [wanderlustmd] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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Yes I've tried this and it work great but for one flaw. A steel cable funkness and a BD wall hammer will deliver more funk than the usual bounce on aiders. This is from personal experience. So don't wail full swing. Practice on the ground.
A good alternative is to use a dyneema sling [old one]. While reported as static it's not truly static [more accurately it's more dynamic than the steel cable]. For that matter even a cable will stretch. Just watch [with safety goggles] a 00 bashie as you bounce test it.
Very useful when testing a Rurp off a manky hook.


lambone


Jul 20, 2007, 9:49 AM
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Re: [rocknice2] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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most of the time I think it is overkill to funk-texst...and it takes longer...and is hard on your gear.

for spicy aid when you are afraid to even breath too deaply I'd say go for it, can't hurt. careful of your eyes.


northernguide


Jul 21, 2007, 2:38 PM
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Re: [wanderlustmd] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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A lot of climbers use the funkess-test to test their next piece when the current piece they are hanging off of is so dicey that it wouldn't hold if the piece you're bounce testing pops.


vegastradguy


Jul 21, 2007, 3:01 PM
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funkness devices create alot of force thats hard to regulate...and if you're on hard aid, any piece you're worried about may hold you but not a funk test.


yetanotherdave


Jul 21, 2007, 7:09 PM
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Re: [vegastradguy] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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One thing you can do to guage your funk-testing is set up a bunch of weak tied cordage and practice both funk- and bounce-testing it to destruction. A good thing to play with in the gym on rainy days...

Tie a loop of string/cord/whatever that you know is good to a bit more than bodyweight to the last bolt of a route, and then play with testing it and moving to/on it.


wanderlustmd


Jul 23, 2007, 8:16 AM
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Great, thanks for the info everyoneSmile


stymingersfink


Jul 24, 2007, 6:10 PM
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Re: [wanderlustmd] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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Though the technique exists, I'm just not that into it. I would rather suggest you develop your technique for body-weight testing questionable pieces.

There will come a time when you are moving from a manky hook onto a copperhead which is equally as manky. The problem is, if you funk that head out (or just rip the wires), it will be time consuming to clean and replace, all while standing on a manky hook!

Better to get good an managing your body tension such that you will be able to get a good-enough test on the piece you will be moving on to, without weakening the one you are standing on. This still requires an accurate assessment of the fall danger you are exposing yourself to, which may dictate just how slowly/carefully the job is accomplished.

This is one of the qualities of hard aid which makes it appealing to guys like myself... the ability to encounter a situation which makes you want to shit your pants with fear, and yet you can keep your wits about you enough to still deal with it in a somewhat safe and intelligent manner.

I really like the Kong adjustable fifi for such situations, as it will allow me to get a good-enough bounce on the next piece, without compromising too much the piece I am testing from should the piece in question fail.




Nothing quite like the taste of adrenaline on the back of your tongue... LOVE IT! (or leave it... i hear knitting is fun too, but I wouldn't know)Wink


lambone


Jul 26, 2007, 8:17 AM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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hoo-raaaa Crazy


(This post was edited by lambone on Jul 26, 2007, 8:18 AM)


wanderlustmd


Jul 26, 2007, 9:00 AM
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Re: [lambone] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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lambone wrote:
hoo-raaaa Crazy

Oh come on man, you soloed Zodiac! Not a clip up by any meansCool

Edited to add:

Sty: Yeah, copperheads was one of several placement types Odgen recommended not to funk for the above reason....leading me to wonder if it was even worth doing in the first place (hence this post)

I did get an adjustable fifi like you recommended earlier. It works great, but cluster management is rough...especially while using clove hitches to rope solo, like I have been doing as of late. I can start to see why Yates offers that big wall harness with two belay loopsCrazy


(This post was edited by wanderlustmd on Jul 26, 2007, 9:03 AM)


lambone


Jul 26, 2007, 9:05 AM
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Re: [wanderlustmd] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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Sorry, just this quote:

In reply to:
Nothing quite like the taste of adrenaline on the back of your tongue... LOVE IT! (or leave it... i hear knitting is fun too, but I wouldn't know)

reminds me of this quote:

In reply to:
I love the smell of napom first thing in the morning!"


(This post was edited by lambone on Jul 26, 2007, 9:10 AM)


rocknice2


Jul 26, 2007, 10:26 AM
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Re: [lambone] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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Did you mean: napalm


stymingersfink


Jul 26, 2007, 10:37 AM
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Re: [wanderlustmd] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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wanderlustmd wrote:
but cluster management is rough...especially while using clove hitches to rope solo, like I have been doing as of late.
yeah, get a grigri to solo on, use a clove on a locker as your backup.

In reply to:
I can start to see why Yates offers that big wall harness with two belay loopsCrazy

Well, kind of... i had a buddy who used to work for Misty back in the day, so he had all these crazy-cool mods that he had sewn up on his harness, including a second belay loop.

I seem to remember him saying something about the wear characteristics of multiple belay-loops being less than stellar, but maybe yates has got the thing figured out?


wanderlustmd


Jul 26, 2007, 2:40 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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My mistake on the Yates thing... I was actually thinking of this one:


Bad pic, but you can sorta see the dual loops.

I have no idea if its any good; the one review does in fact say that the belay loops seem to be a little on the flimsy side...who knows.


moof


Jul 26, 2007, 10:49 PM
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Re: [wanderlustmd] Funkness Test [In reply to]
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The feedback I've heard is that while dual belay loops reduce cluster factor, as you back and forth weighting them (presuming you have one daisy/aider pair per loop) you drag the loops back and forth across the tie in area, dramatically increasing the wear on your harness. I think it was Kate you pointed out her experience maybe?


lambone


Jul 28, 2007, 10:14 AM
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off topic now, but...

I think the biggest benefit of two belay loops is having independant daisies. When you have both daisies on just one loop and you are top stepping one under tension, it can be hard to pull the otherone to full extension, especially if it is pinned under the tensioned one. Not an issue with two loops.

as far as reducing cluster...not so much...


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