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coastal_climber
Jul 2, 2007, 3:10 AM
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Is this a good idea? I want to learn gear placement and the aid sequence.
Ideas, suggestions?
>Cam
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fenderfour
Jul 2, 2007, 2:32 PM
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Yes, it is a good idea if you know how to set up a TR solo system and you back it up frequently.
Anything that gets you climbing is a good idea.
Go get some
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joeforte
Jul 2, 2007, 2:56 PM
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This is how I used to spend my rainy afternoons. It's actually very relaxing and stimulating. Since you don't have a partner, you can just take your good 'ole time. Keep yourself clipped into backup knots, preferably on an independent rope, at all times.
I usually anchor the middle of my rope at the top, and drop both ends down the cliff. Then I rap in on one strand with the cinch, and on my way down, tie backup knots in the other strand that you can clip into on the way up. I like to use directional8's cuz they hang really nice. Hang a pair of shoes on the end of the rap rope, and the cinch will self feed really nicely as you climb up. As you get to the backup knots, clip into them one by one.
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shimanilami
Jul 23, 2007, 11:58 PM
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As I pictured this, it occurred to me that if you are on top-rope then you never need to leave or clip a piece. You can basically just pull on a piece until you're done with it, and then you re-rack it. That sounds like a lot of fun actually, and less CF-ish. Do you find it helps your gear placements? Does it dull your leading skills?
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vegastradguy
Jul 24, 2007, 12:57 AM
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better idea- rope-solo it on lead.
theres no reason to TR C1, imho.
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salamanizer
Jul 24, 2007, 1:26 AM
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vegastradguy wrote: better idea- rope-solo it on lead. theres no reason to TR C1, imho.
I disagree,
Learning how to aid while learning how to lead solo is a recipe for disaster. Better to learn your sequence and be a somewhat proficient aid leader before you go off learning how to lead solo. Granted, some people will do just fine learning both at the same time. But I guarantee most people are an accident waiting to happen, even on C1.
On the other hand, I agree that TR aiding C1 to learn only gear placement is a total waste of time. All the placements on C1/2 should be pretty strait forward.
TR aiding A3/4/5 on the other hand to learn gear placement is probably a good idea. Would give you an idea of what you can hook and what you shouldn't, and what a good pin looks and sounds like.
I used to do that shit.... got really boring really fast.
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vegastradguy
Jul 24, 2007, 2:27 AM
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salamanizer wrote: vegastradguy wrote: better idea- rope-solo it on lead. theres no reason to TR C1, imho. I disagree, Learning how to aid while learning how to lead solo is a recipe for disaster.
Not really- thats how i learned to aid climb and it wasnt that big of a deal.
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joeforte
Jul 24, 2007, 2:31 AM
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I learned Aid one day like this:
Toprope solo'd a 5.8 crack climb in the rain, Super-duper boring, so I decided to try to lead something.
Lead rope solo'd an A2 aid climb, Super-duper scary, especially when I weighted a nut outwards and it blew and hit me in the eye. I bled all over everything and finished out the climb.
One of the best days of my life. Now I know I can Solo-lead Aid out of any epic I might have.
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caughtinside
Jul 24, 2007, 3:37 AM
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vegastradguy wrote: salamanizer wrote: vegastradguy wrote: better idea- rope-solo it on lead. theres no reason to TR C1, imho. I disagree, Learning how to aid while learning how to lead solo is a recipe for disaster. Not really- thats how i learned to aid climb and it wasnt that big of a deal.
Same here. Just built ground anchors, and bungled my way through the sequence rope solo on a grigri until I figured it out. It was good that it was on C1, because I was thrashing around and pretty ungainly. having every piece be totally bomber was pretty nice, until I got more efficient and smooth.
TIE BACK UP KNOTS.
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moose_droppings
Jul 24, 2007, 3:44 AM
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joeforte wrote: I learned Aid one day like this:
That must of been one long day!
When you TR your aiding, do the whole stick, carry all the gear and clip your pro to your lead line, leaving gear. Don't want to get any sloppy habits.
edit for more practice:
When you get to the top, fix your lead line and rap the TR line. Now clean the route,
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Jul 24, 2007, 4:27 AM)
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salamanizer
Jul 24, 2007, 5:59 AM
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vegastradguy wrote: salamanizer wrote: vegastradguy wrote: better idea- rope-solo it on lead. theres no reason to TR C1, imho. I disagree, Learning how to aid while learning how to lead solo is a recipe for disaster. Not really- thats how i learned to aid climb and it wasnt that big of a deal.
Like I say, "some people will do just fine, some wont".
That's how I learned too. Same with leading trad. I rope soloed trad routes before someone ever belayed me on one. Can't say it was one of the smarter things I've ever done, now I do that shit in my sleep.... literally. It's just not something I would mention or recommend to a lot of people. They'll get dipshit ideas in there head. Let them think it up on there own.
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stymingersfink
Jul 25, 2007, 12:56 AM
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salamanizer wrote: vegastradguy wrote: salamanizer wrote: vegastradguy wrote: better idea- rope-solo it on lead. theres no reason to TR C1, imho. I disagree, Learning how to aid while learning how to lead solo is a recipe for disaster. Not really- thats how i learned to aid climb and it wasnt that big of a deal. Like I say, "some people will do just fine, some wont". That's how I learned too. Same with leading trad. I rope soloed trad routes before someone ever belayed me on one. Can't say it was one of the smarter things I've ever done, now I do that shit in my sleep.... literally. It's just not something I would mention or recommend to a lot of people. They'll get dipshit ideas in there head. Let them think it up on there own.
I firmly believe that roped-soloing (sport, trad, ice or aid) with a good head on one's shoulders will make for a better climbing partner, such that they should be able to handle pretty much anything that comes up in a party of two, as they are already well versed in doing it all on their own.
These are the kinds of people I would rather climb with, though I often must be satisfied with someone without such experience.
Oh, and to the one who caught a nut in the face... Did you learn the first rule of testing from that experience? The first rule being WEAR A HELMET & NEVER LOOK AT A PIECE BEING TESTED!!! Sometimes it helps to cover the questionable piece with a gloved hand as well.
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