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Must do free walls
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cchas


Jul 31, 2007, 7:25 AM
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Must do free walls
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What walls that go all free are must do, for someone that is a old fart that is also a working stiff(ie: fairly moderate with pitches up to mid-.12's). I like things that are a bit longer....

On my ticklist right now are

All Along the Watchtower (Bugaboos)
Rainbow Wall Original Route (Red Rocks)
Freeway (Squamish- hoping to do in August)

Already have done the Rostrum which is one of my favorite routes and highly recommend it.


(This post was edited by cchas on Jul 31, 2007, 7:38 AM)


flamer


Aug 1, 2007, 9:00 AM
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Re: [cchas] Must do free walls [In reply to]
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You want long adventurous free routes?

The black canyon.

Scenic cruise
Astro dog
Southern Arete of the painted wall

josh


bandycoot


Aug 1, 2007, 9:04 AM
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Romantic Warrior and Astroman


mtnjohn


Aug 1, 2007, 9:20 AM
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West Face of El Cap
Free Blast even though it doesn't top out it's pretty stellar.


cchas


Aug 1, 2007, 9:47 AM
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Re: [mtnjohn] Must do free walls [In reply to]
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Romantic Warrior is definately on my list even though I know that I need to work on my stemming (which I suck at, more of a power climber).

As for Astrodog, which pitch gives it its R rating?


jer99


Aug 1, 2007, 10:10 AM
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Re: [cchas] Must do free walls [In reply to]
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There really isn't much on Astrodog to merit an R rating, just some fiddley gear for a few moves. Astrodog is a bit of a chosspile though anyway, if you're going to head to the Black, Stoned Oven (also 11+) is a far superior route.

Other routes I'd include: Sunshine crack in the Bugs, Northern Lights in Squamish, Monkeyfinger in Zion, Cloud Tower in Red Rocks.


cchas


Aug 1, 2007, 10:24 AM
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Re: [jer99] Must do free walls [In reply to]
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jer99 wrote:
There really isn't much on Astrodog to merit an R rating, just some fiddley gear for a few moves. Astrodog is a bit of a chosspile though anyway, if you're going to head to the Black, Stoned Oven (also 11+) is a far superior route.

Other routes I'd include: Sunshine crack in the Bugs, Northern Lights in Squamish, Monkeyfinger in Zion, Cloud Tower in Red Rocks.

Thanks about that beta. When I go out for Rainbow Wall, hoping to warm up a couple days before on Cloud Tower (P4 and the last one look good). In Squamish on top of Freeway, I am also looking at Alaska Highway.

Haven'y heard of Monkeyfingers yet... do tell...


trebork2
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Aug 1, 2007, 10:27 AM
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All Along the Watchtower is my dream route. It's so damn beautiful.


cchas


Aug 1, 2007, 10:31 AM
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Agree. With the Bugs, you can't complain. It is so damn gorgous up there (assuming you get the weather.) I am glad theat Dowww suggested that we change our plans last year and we headed up there instead of the temple area.


vegastradguy


Aug 5, 2007, 1:19 PM
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cchas wrote:
Haven'y heard of Monkeyfinger yet... do tell...

Monkeyfinger is a pretty spectacular crack system in the Temple of Sinaweva in Zion- goes at .12b, i think. Check mountainproject.com and our routes db for more info and pictures.

There are some pretty stout .11ish routes up the Velvet Wall right of Epi that might be worth checking out while you're here. Also, Dogma and Woman of Mountain Dreams are supposedly very good.


clusterfuck


Aug 11, 2007, 10:28 PM
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don't forget the stoned oven eh..


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