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thomasribiere
Oct 3, 2002, 11:32 AM
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I used a polarizing filter with a black and white Tmax 100ASA, hoping it would create a contrasted sky with well appearing clouds, but not at all!
Any idea to get "tragical" sky, with "threatening" clouds. I heard of yellow or red filters. Any info?
I add that I don't develop the films by myself, but have them in a shop (medium quality).
Thanx for infos.
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krillen
Oct 3, 2002, 12:49 PM
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a red filter will in crease you contrast (i.e. your darks will be blask, and you lights will be white). This provides teh cloud effects you are looking for, but remember it WILL effect you subject too.
Play around with it to see how it works, that's the easiest way.
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cyberclimber
Oct 3, 2002, 1:17 PM
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Hi Thomas,
If you are wanting to darken the sky and make the clouds stand out more with B/W film, without strongly affecting the rest of your image, use a medium yellow filter. A red #25 filter will have an even more pronounced effect on the sky, but as already mentioned, it will greatly increase your overall contrast. If your image has a fairly flat horizon, you can use a split filter (yellow or red on top and clear on bottom or even a split neutral density filter stacked with a yellow to darken the sky and increase contrast). Realize that it is very difficult to get a dark sky if you are trying to shoot backlit (towards the sun), shooting with the sun at your back will make it much easier to get that dramatic looking sky. Off the subject a bit, but for really dramatic skies, try some Kodak High Speed Infrared B/W with a #25 Red filter and the sun behind you. Have fun!
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jasona
Oct 3, 2002, 2:38 PM
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IF you really wanted a contrasted sky and some interesting effects, try Kodak's infrared BW. Use a 28 or 25 red filter and be sure to bracket your exposures. Remember film must be loaded and unloaded in total darkness. Recommend leave it in canister when not in camera. Expensive stuff but looks amazing. Oh yeah, the more wide angle the better.
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thomasribiere
Oct 15, 2002, 8:16 PM
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Thank you very much for this complete answers. I'm just coming back from one week in Greece, where I mainly shot colour rolls, and 2 BW rolls. I used my polarizing filter again, b/c I had only this one, but for my next holidays I will try either the red or yellow one, depending of what I find in my small city.
ANd why not try this infrared film. I had never heard of this one before.
Additional question : have you ever tried this film by Kodak "Black and White +, 400 ASA"?
It's a BW film which can be developped in a colour machine?
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jasona
Oct 15, 2002, 8:23 PM
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Sounds like Kodax T400 CN. B&W film that is C-41 processed(same processing as color) but yeilds B&W prints. Haven't used it myself but seen some of it and appears to have good results.
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tim
Oct 15, 2002, 8:31 PM
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T400CN is probably the finest grained black and white film most people will ever care to use. I only buy T400CN and TMZ these days, they cover both ends of the spectrum as far as what I desire from black & white (on the one hand fast invisible grain, on the other, highest possible speed).
If you're really into B&W look at Barnbaum's book, and consider whether yellow, orange, or red filters would best suit your aims. Remember that the filter you choose will basically intensify the *opposite* color from itself and wash out its own in B&W.
the book: http://www.barnbaum.com/artofphotography.html
the nice thing about Barnbaum is that he does not pull any punches and does not pretend there is only one answer to a problem; this is ''art'' and no one can tell you how to feel or think.
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krillen
Oct 15, 2002, 9:15 PM
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C-41 B&W can be a bit wonky. I had some great results with it, and then went to another lab and had HORRIBLE results. so it depends what your lab is doing.
It certainly makes getting someone else to develop you film easier adn cheaper, but I stil l favour the results of true B&W.
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pushfurther
Oct 15, 2002, 10:02 PM
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i used the 400 c41 film for a while. when you take it to get printed, they will be more brown and white than black and white.
all my chandler park bouldering pictures were done on c-41 b&w film, i just scanned them as gray images and they turn out black and white. the actual prints look different.
i like the tmax100 alot better.
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beyond_gravity
Oct 15, 2002, 10:06 PM
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One think I like to do is shoot threw my Ski goggles or sunglasses...experiement around and you'll get some interesting effects.
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krillen
Oct 16, 2002, 3:17 PM
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My C-41 B&W's came out brown and white too!
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thomasribiere
Oct 16, 2002, 5:31 PM
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so I might wait for a non important event to use it, b/c my lab is poor, unfortunately.
I wish I hqve time and space to do the job myself!
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pushfurther
Oct 16, 2002, 6:26 PM
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krillen, that's because it's not true black and white film..it's black and white film for color processing. my photo teacher says that stuff can turn out blue and white, red and white, etc..
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paceth01
Oct 16, 2002, 8:12 PM
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It would be nice and easy if you could get darkroom acess. You could Burn the sky and clouds out with a high filter and avoid having to guess about the filter when you are in the middle of shooting a quick scene or sequence.
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basecamp_junkie
Oct 16, 2002, 8:38 PM
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beyond_gravity mentioned a great idea, I first tried shooting through my yellow glacier glasses when i lost my filter while in the mountains.. it does have some great effects. Have fun and try it all out. let us know how it all works.
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spike
Oct 16, 2002, 9:16 PM
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Hi Tom,
I just purchase a roll of B&W file that can be processed in C-41 chemicals but haven't used it yet. I think the problem is that you are having the lab make "prints" from your "B&W film" like it was color film. I think it is a "B&W negative" not a "color negative".
Richard / SPIKE
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peanutbutterandjelly
Oct 17, 2002, 1:00 AM
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I work in a photo lab. C-41 black and white film is what many of the proffesionals use for portraits when they shoot. We develope the film with black and white paper. This gives you a true black and white. If you use color paper with the C-41 b&w you will get a sepia toned result (brownish). The best results that I have found on C-41 b&w have come form Kodak Portra 400 B&W. Most places you have to tell them you want your roll on black and white paper and in many noncustom labs (cvs, walmart, ect) they will not be able to do this for you. The only time I shoot regular b&w is for stuff I want to enlarge my self. For all my paid work I shoot C-41 B&W.
(sorry about the spelling errors above)
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