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erika37


Aug 1, 2007, 6:58 AM
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Registered: May 18, 2007
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cape croker  (North_America: Canada: Ontario)
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hey im plannin to head clmbin up that area this wkend... just wonderin of the routes, if there are many lower sport climbs, like from 5.8-5.10 range.....
and how is the climbin there, and quite possibly are there other places up there with 5.8-5.10 good sport climbing????


granite_grrl


Aug 1, 2007, 7:23 AM
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Re: [erika37] cape croker [In reply to]
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Last time I was up there the base was loaded with poisin ivy. Unless someone bombed the base to kill it I would suspect it'll be much the same this year.

I can't remember what the grade range is up there for sport. We did a few easier gear lines and one sport climb that wasn't in the book. I would check the guide book.

Feel free to check it out, but a better option might be Lion's Head. There are a couple 5.7's, a few 5.9's and a whole bunch of 5.10's. It can be tricky to find where to rap in, and its often hanging belays, but you should be able to find people who will help direct you.

A group of us will be going up there this weekend too (though we probobly won't be climbing together eery day). I think that we'll be staying at Cape Croker, so while we have no plans to climb there, we might just take a run up to check it out.


erika37


Aug 1, 2007, 7:43 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] cape croker [In reply to]
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thanks for the reply. i hear its really nice at lions head, but me adn my buddy have never done a hangin belay set up before so we werent sure if lions head was a good place for us to go?!?!
where would u suggest the best place for moderate sport climbs in ont is...
was at mt nemo last wkend, not much but harder climbs tehre eh?


monkeyssister


Aug 1, 2007, 7:43 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] cape croker [In reply to]
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I really like the climbing at Cape Croker. However, there is a ton of poison ivy and it's a south facing exposure, so it'll be really, really hot this weekend. For sport, there's one 5.9 and six 5.10's and a bunch of great 11's (all are listed in the routes section). If you're sticking to sport climbing, watch for poison ivy at the base of Pelee and Neuromancer and on the ledge on Wysteria and Ivy League. There are also some good, moderate trad routes but they tend to be a bit dirty and overgrown.

If you're trying to avoid the approach and hanging belays at Lion's Head, TV tower Crag (just north of Cape Croker) is another option.


granite_grrl


Aug 1, 2007, 7:54 AM
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Re: [monkeyssister] cape croker [In reply to]
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TV Tower is nice, but there's nothing there under 5.10 for sport there. The gear lines were really nice, but there's not a lot of easier stuff there.

Erika - there's just not alot of moderate sport climbing in Ontario. Period. There are a couple of 5.9s at Old Baldy, and I haven't been to Metcalf yet, but if you found the 5.10s at Nemo hard, you'll probobly find the other 5.10 sport climbs in Ontario hard too.

Have you considered travelling? I hear there are some nice easier climbs at Rumney, and when it starts getting cooler I'd take the time to check out the Red and the New as well.

Re: hanging belays. There aren't too terribly tricky, the key is to make sure the way you anchor in is safe. There are two bolts at the start of the climbs out there, so its not a complicated setup. It can be done with a double length sling and a few lockers. Its the rope management that gets a little tricky.


surgeon1


Aug 1, 2007, 10:30 AM
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Re: [erika37] cape croker [In reply to]
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Metcalfe rock also has a few easy sport climbs near the anvil, and further North from El Camino Real, not sure about the grades but nothing harder than a 5.9. These are new climbs that do not appear in the sport climbing guidebook.


erika37


Aug 1, 2007, 11:03 AM
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Re: [surgeon1] cape croker [In reply to]
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thanks, yeh ive been to metcalfe a few times, just wanted to try somewheer new as well..! thanks though, i wil lhave to keep an eye out for more sport routes next time i go there!!!


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