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newbienewlyweds
Aug 2, 2007, 3:09 AM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2006
Posts: 5
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Looking for beta on Lana falls or any climbing at the Lake Dunmore VT area.
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cfnubbler
Aug 2, 2007, 4:43 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628
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There are two crags commonly climbed on there (the Falls of Lana on Sucker Brook). The most popular by far is just climber's left of the Falls themselves. Easy walk-up (around to climbers' right), large trees for anchors. It's a very pleasant place to climb if you're looking for easy top ropes. The climbs are short, (~40') and in the 5.4-5.6 range. Park at the Sucker Brook trailhead on Rt. 53 (on the left just past the entrance to Lake Dunmore SP if headed south), then walk back to the campground (on the right, while walking back north), and look for a trail leaving from the back of the CG. Follow it up for about 5 minutes, then follow your nose, wandering up to the base of the obvious white slab.
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gunkiemike
Aug 7, 2007, 12:10 AM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
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You might have trouble with nubbler's directions, as there are TWO campgrounds there: the state park campground (which has some sites less than 5 min from the base of the main face) and another one located up in the woods on the north side of Sucker Bk, perhaps 8-10 minutes walk up from the clearly marked Falls of Lana parking lot just south of the lake on Rt 53. If you start at the former, you'll navigate your way to the base of the face. Look for the trail near the bathroom at the south end of the campground loop; veer off to the right when you get to the broad pine tree-covered plateau just 2 minutes up. If you go to the latter campground, head west along a fairly decent path and you'll come to the top of the face.
The climbs are in fact up to 100' tall and as hard as 5.9. The stone is delightful quartzite of almost marble-like consistency.
A second face of lesser interest (maybe 3 worthwhile lines) is a few hundred feet north of the main face. You'll need to contour along the base for a couple minutes to find it, and don't be surprised if you find yourself on a dead-end terrace at least once.
Finally there are interesting limestone faces in the trees underneath the Rattlesnake Point lookout a mile or two hike above the lake. From the southernmost viewpoints, find and navigate down a gully on the west side and explore to your heart's content. I solo TR'ed a very good 90' face climb there, 5.8 or so, that had a bit of chalk on it, but there are lots of cool features to investigate.
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