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edmontonalta


Aug 3, 2007, 11:43 PM
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Any tips on using expansion bolts?
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I'll be using 3/8 inch bolts. Should the bolt be perpendicular to cliff? If you drive it in at a sloping angle will that result in water seeping in and rusting bolt? I have a 3/8 drill bit but it is a flat bit. Will that work for this purpose? How long does it take to drill a hole in granite? Is it ok to place the bolt on a flat surface ie at the top of cliff? Do you need a different type of fitting in this case?


sky7high


Aug 4, 2007, 12:37 AM
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Re: [edmontonalta] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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No offense, but please don't bolt. Please don't learn over the internet. How long have you been climbing? People I know that have more than 10 years climbing hard are still not experienced enough to place bolts. Judging by your only other post you're nowhere near experienced enough.
I insist, DON'T BOLT. You can get someone killed.


edmontonalta


Aug 4, 2007, 1:10 AM
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Re: [sky7high] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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Another thought. if water get into the bolt hole and then freezes can that cause problems?

Im very experienced. I just dont brag. If i have the know how to drill a hole in granite and place a bolt Im obviously smart. Im not doing anything dangerous. just climbing a waterfall. I cant afford books and all the books in the library are out.
im doing conservative stuff. Im not the typical climber by any stretch.


flint


Aug 4, 2007, 1:23 AM
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Re: [edmontonalta] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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I would follow the advice of the first person. If you are not satisfied with that, take a class. If you are to poor for classes and books, then you are to poor to afford bolts and the numerous bits you are going to go through.

Best advice, set up a top rope.

Really, a flat bit...................


edmontonalta


Aug 4, 2007, 1:51 AM
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Re: [flint] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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http://www.uoregon.edu/~opp/climbing/topics/anchors.html

Here is a helpful link. It seems like people are penalized for admitting they dont know around here.
Im going to use bolts so if you know something practical please chime in. Saying you need 10 yrs experience to place a bolt is not helping anybody.


edmontonalta


Aug 4, 2007, 2:01 AM
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Re: [flint] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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"Best advice, set up a top rope."

im climbing a waterfall from the bottom. this is about 300 meters. there are no trees for anchors. too dangerous to start from top because i cant see where the cliffs are. most people would just scramble up but i dont need any more risk in my life. i understand risk and have seen people kill themselves hiking and climbing. these are smart people so i do things cautiously.


(This post was edited by edmontonalta on Aug 4, 2007, 2:28 AM)


flint


Aug 4, 2007, 3:18 AM
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Re: [edmontonalta] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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edmontonalta wrote:
there are no trees for anchors. too dangerous to start from top because i cant see where the cliffs are.

Not trying to be mean but, I don't see a single tree in any of those pictures.

Maybe you should try some basic climbing anchors, slinging rocks, one of those near by, none existant trees, gear? If you feel comfortable placing a bolt in the rock type, then I would put money down that there are some hex or nut placements. (cams only if it is completely dry)

These options will just save you time, money, and will ultimatly do better.

Where is the water fall, looks like the rockies.


(This post was edited by flint on Aug 4, 2007, 3:26 AM)


rocknice2


Aug 4, 2007, 3:31 AM
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Re: [edmontonalta] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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edmontonalta wrote:
"Best advice, set up a top rope."

im climbing a waterfall from the bottom. this is about 300 meters. there are no trees for anchors. too dangerous to start from top because i cant see where the cliffs are. most people would just scramble up but i dont need any more risk in my life. i understand risk and have seen people kill themselves hiking and climbing. these are smart people so i do things cautiously.

Wait til winter and ice climb that waterfall.



There is nothing here 300 meters long.

Do you have any Idea of what your doing.

Don't bolt that waterfall
Don't bolt anything please
Get some more experience

That other site is about anchors not expansion bolts
I will guarantee that you'll mess-up the job

What kind of drill and drill bit do you have?


edmontonalta


Aug 4, 2007, 3:42 AM
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Re: [flint] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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From the pic, it looks like you could just walk up but that is not the case. The trees look close by but everything is bigger and steeper than it looks. I know how to drill holes so i have more confidence in that method. Not comfortable with wedges. The mountain is right on the coast near seatle.


flint


Aug 4, 2007, 3:44 AM
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Re: [edmontonalta] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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edmontonalta wrote:
I have a 3/8 drill bit but it is a flat bit. Will that work for this purpose? How long does it take to drill a hole in granite?

In the OP, have fun

Still, maybe slinging rocks??


(This post was edited by flint on Aug 4, 2007, 3:46 AM)


rocknice2


Aug 4, 2007, 3:49 AM
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Re: [edmontonalta] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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Please this is no 300 meter cliff.
I know eveything looks steeper and longer on pictures. But who are you kidding

Why don't you wait till winter

Are you planning to drill a bolt ladder all the way up?

what kind of drill and drill bit aare you using?


edmontonalta


Aug 4, 2007, 4:00 AM
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Re: [rocknice2] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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rocknice2 wrote:
edmontonalta wrote:
"Best advice, set up a top rope."

im climbing a waterfall from the bottom. this is about 300 meters. there are no trees for anchors. too dangerous to start from top because i cant see where the cliffs are. most people would just scramble up but i dont need any more risk in my life. i understand risk and have seen people kill themselves hiking and climbing. these are smart people so i do things cautiously.

Wait til winter and ice climb that waterfall.

[image]http://imgcash3.imageshack.us/Himg530/scaled.php?server=530&filename=img0078et3.jpg&xsize=640&ysize=480[/image]

There is nothing here 300 meters long.

Do you have any Idea of what your doing.

Don't bolt that waterfall
Don't bolt anything please
Get some more experience

That other site is about anchors not expansion bolts
I will guarantee that you'll mess-up the job

What kind of drill and drill bit do you have?

Its 300 meters of elevation gain. Im not sure of the actual walking distance. You are seeing about half the waterfall in that picture. The snow in that pic is about 30 ft high. The cave under the snow is about 20ft high. 12 volt drill.My bits work on steel so I think they will be ok for granite. Ill find a boulder somewhere and practice.


overlord


Aug 4, 2007, 4:05 AM
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Re: [edmontonalta] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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please, PLEASE, do not bolt. you obviously do not have the skills required and you cannot learn them form the internet.


rocknice2


Aug 4, 2007, 4:13 AM
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edmontonalta wrote:
Its 300 meters of elevation gain. Im not sure of the actual walking distance. You are seeing about half the waterfall in that picture. The snow in that pic is about 30 ft high. The cave under the snow is about 20ft high. 12 volt drill.My bits work on steel so I think they will be ok for granite. Ill find a boulder somewhere and practice.

OK then. I was just checking.

I can rest easy knowing that you are properly equipped.


microbarn


Aug 4, 2007, 5:02 AM
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Re: [edmontonalta] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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edmontonalta wrote:
http://www.uoregon.edu/~opp/climbing/topics/anchors.html

Here is a helpful link. It seems like people are penalized for admitting they dont know around here.
Im going to use bolts so if you know something practical please chime in. Saying you need 10 yrs experience to place a bolt is not helping anybody.

The fact that you didn't already know the things in that link screams that you aren't ready to be bolting. You said somewhere that you have a four year degree and you are smart. Well, hopefully you are smart enough to realize that learning some things takes time, and some things are not self evident. Hopefully you realize that some topics are more intricate then can be addressed in a 10 minute post on some forum.

If you must ascend that waterfall, find a local climber that is willing to show you the right way. There should be a few at the local gym. In the end, they will show you a cheaper, faster, more efficient way to get to the top.


taydude


Aug 4, 2007, 5:46 AM
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Re: [edmontonalta] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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edmontonalta wrote:
Another thought. if water get into the bolt hole and then freezes can that cause problems?

Im very experienced. I just dont brag. If i have the know how to drill a hole in granite and place a bolt Im obviously smart. Im not doing anything dangerous. just climbing a waterfall. I cant afford books and all the books in the library are out.
im doing conservative stuff. Im not the typical climber by any stretch.

This is such a poorly done troll it's hilarious. You can't afford books?! lol then why are you participating in such an expensive sport? How do you expect to afford bolts? If you're gonna troll do it right or go home.


flint


Aug 4, 2007, 5:47 AM
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Once again, no one is saying you are stupid. Yes, at one time we were all in the boat of not knowing, as you said.

If you believe this, then you should believe us when we tell you that what you're wanting to do it more complicated than you think. You should believe us because we use to not know (like you) and now, some of us, have gained knowledge.

I personally have attended two bolting class / teachings, and I know that I am not ready to bolt anything. These things take practice and a great deal of knowledge, that I know that I have not aquired yet.

Please seek instruction. You claim that these things scare you and that you want to take as little risk as possible. You have that fear for a reason, it is telling you that you are not prepared to do this. We are telling you that, from what we have gathered and as a collective knowledge base, that the safest thing for you to do is seek instruction.

If you came here looking for advice, I truely believe this forum has given the best advice for the situation.


flint


Aug 4, 2007, 6:18 AM
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Re: [rocknice2] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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rocknice2 wrote:
edmontonalta wrote:
Its 300 meters of elevation gain. Im not sure of the actual walking distance. You are seeing about half the waterfall in that picture. The snow in that pic is about 30 ft high. The cave under the snow is about 20ft high. 12 volt drill.My bits work on steel so I think they will be ok for granite. Ill find a boulder somewhere and practice.

OK then. I was just checking.

I can rest easy knowing that you are properly equipped.

P.S. lmao.......


rockclimbchar


Aug 4, 2007, 6:57 AM
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Re: [edmontonalta] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Im very experienced. I just dont brag. If i have the know how to drill a hole in granite and place a bolt Im obviously smart. Im not doing anything dangerous. just climbing a waterfall. I cant afford books and all the books in the library are out.
im doing conservative stuff. Im not the typical climber by any stretch.

Is this for real or is this a joke?
seriously...

I just don't brag.................I'm obviously smart
I'm not doing anything dangerous...........just climbing a waterfall
I can't afford books..........
.....(how can you afford the drill and hardware?)

Why don't you just let everyone know what you are trying to do (specifically) like everyone has been asking in your other postings??? Being smart and having common sense are two different things. If you don't know EXACTLY what you are doing then DO NOT do it! It is your LIFE and possibly somebody else's life. I'm not trying to be mean, I'm just trying to wake you up.Unsure


roadstead


Aug 4, 2007, 7:36 AM
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Re: [edmontonalta] Any tips on using expansion bolts? [In reply to]
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edmontonalta wrote:
From the pic, it looks like you could just walk up but that is not the case. The trees look close by but everything is bigger and steeper than it looks. I know how to drill holes so i have more confidence in that method. Not comfortable with wedges. The mountain is right on the coast near seatle.


OP, What's the point of doing all this work, that would make you willing to kill yourself for? Iceclimbing, Slackline, Zipline or that little known sport of "Alpine Waterclimbing"

I have seen well meaning OP's Killed the day after posting.

My tip is... live to be a Old Man


moose_droppings


Aug 4, 2007, 7:56 AM
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edmontonalta wrote:
Another thought. if water get into the bolt hole and then freezes can that cause problems?

Im very experienced. I just dont brag. If i have the know how to drill a hole in granite and place a bolt Im obviously smart. Im not doing anything dangerous. just climbing a waterfall. I cant afford books and all the books in the library are out.
im doing conservative stuff. Im not the typical climber by any stretch.

You should be wearing a helmet in case there are any woodpeckers out there.


time2clmb


Aug 4, 2007, 8:00 AM
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edmontonalta wrote:
Another thought. if water get into the bolt hole and then freezes can that cause problems?

Im very experienced. I just dont brag.

Yet in another post you wrote:

In reply to:
What if you run out of rope on a repell down a cliff? Is there a way to climb back up. I will use a munter hitch . Do I just climb up a few feet and than rest and repeat? Has anyone ever ended up suspended over a cliff and died because they could not move?

Very poor troll...or your not as smart as you think you are for thinking you are experienced when you can't even answer the above question.

Troll.


time2clmb


Aug 4, 2007, 8:02 AM
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Another

In reply to:
I have 8 mm and 10 mm rope that I use for protection . i have a webbing that .75 inches(20 mm). it seems to work well on both ropes. do i need thinner webbing?

All these posted questions back to back....c'mon. You are not going to catch the big one.


rockclimbchar


Aug 4, 2007, 9:31 AM
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rockclimbchar wrote:
In reply to:
Im very experienced. I just dont brag. If i have the know how to drill a hole in granite and place a bolt Im obviously smart. Im not doing anything dangerous. just climbing a waterfall. I cant afford books and all the books in the library are out.
im doing conservative stuff. Im not the typical climber by any stretch.

Is this for real or is this a joke?
seriously...

I just don't brag.................I'm obviously smart
I'm not doing anything dangerous...........just climbing a waterfall
I can't afford books..........
.....(how can you afford the drill and hardware?)

Why don't you just let everyone know what you are trying to do (specifically) like everyone has been asking in your other postings??? Being smart and having common sense are two different things. If you don't know EXACTLY what you are doing then DO NOT do it! It is your LIFE and possibly somebody else's life. I'm not trying to be mean, I'm just trying to wake you up.Unsure

Ahhh, This has got to be a joke. (after reading more of the other concurrent forums you posted - edmontonalta)
If it's really not.... then I'm sorry, it's just that I fell for something like this before....Crazy


stymingersfink


Aug 4, 2007, 10:15 AM
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Some tips on avoiding poor illiterate trolls? [In reply to]
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time2clmb wrote:
Troll.

Surprised no-one accused Majid of creating another account. Obviously they attend the same ESL writing composition classes together, though I suppose Majid has an edge over "edmontonalta" when it comes to command of the language... Separated at birth?

I think so.

Some of you should be ashamed of yourself for even validating such a poor effort with a response!Blush

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