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Leaving My GYM...
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bent_gate


Aug 3, 2007, 2:41 PM
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Re: [dbrayack] Leaving My GYM... [In reply to]
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dbrayack wrote:
I wish we had a gym...in the state of West Virginia.

I think Orange Oswald on weekends qualifies. The only thing it's missing is a Power-Ade machine... Wink


markc


Aug 3, 2007, 7:13 PM
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Re: [bent_gate] Leaving My GYM... [In reply to]
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bent_gate wrote:
dbrayack wrote:
I wish we had a gym...in the state of West Virginia.

I think Orange Oswald on weekends qualifies. The only thing it's missing is a Power-Ade machine... Wink

Someone took out the Power-Ade machine?!? Oh noes!


Gript


Aug 3, 2007, 7:32 PM
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Re: [climbordie7] Leaving My GYM... [In reply to]
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okay yall are all so wierd. at the gym i work at we don't have a designated route setter. that is so lame, i mean if you have a designated route setter all the routes will eventually get boring, and lose their creativity. -climberbordie7

uh, okay - let's see - letting a professional route setter with 15+ years of experience who has climbed on just about every type of rock determine what the routes should be .... or... let just any schmuck with a cheap pair of rock shoes and some spare time on to slap some holds on the wall, pick a pretty color tape, and call it a route.... hhhmmm - call me crazy but if I had to guess I'm gonna say let's stick to the pros...

how to think about this - well, try this: "excuse me sir, I flown on planes lotsa times - do you mind if I take the controls for a little while, I'm sure the rest of the passengers won't mind..." Crazy...or for a more banal example (which may even be more apropos) "I've read a lot of books, why don't I write one, I'm sure it won't suck..."Unsure

here's the deal - there is no reason why a professional artist will lose creativity - that's why they're "professionals" - maybe some slumps that require inspiration, but that is ever preferable to the alternative you describe.

I've been to lots of gyms and basically a good (or great) route setter makes or breaks a gym. I've been lucky to have known two true professionals (Stark being one of them). There have been other good (and far less than good ones), but in over 10+ years these guys have been the Lance Armstrongs of setting...

Note - this post is by FUCHE - I was signed in on my wife's username...


(This post was edited by Gript on Aug 3, 2007, 7:34 PM)


climbordie7


Aug 5, 2007, 10:40 AM
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Re: [Gript] Leaving My GYM... [In reply to]
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the only time i had ever heard of a professional route setter, is well when they set up routes for comps. you don't have to insult the way we run our gym and the routes that i set up. i even said that if i made all the routes i am sure people would be sick of it. i don't know you, and i wasn't picking on you. it is cool to have the pros set up comp. routes and stuff but at our gym the climbers really enjoy setting the routes, and they do a really good job of it, its not like every time we have a problem we mark it, but the ones that really rock usually go up. you shouldn't insult other peoples routes. my coaches for the climbing team love my routes. plus indoor climbing is totally different than outdoor climbing. just because someone has climbid on every type of rock there is doesn't mean they can make a decent route. that is what you said in a way, just because someone can climb doesn't mean they can make a route. sorry for calling the way other gyms do it lame, but alot of gyms don't have pros that set the routes, they just have some teenager who isn't a pro, and who doesn't have 15+ years experience, which is what i was calling lame. do you understand now....


Partner ctardi


Aug 5, 2007, 11:58 AM
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Re: [climbordie7] Leaving My GYM... [In reply to]
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The system that seems to work best is having multiple setters of different experience.

For example, we have about 4 people that regularly come in and set bouldering problems.

I usually set on angled walls and the roofs. We have some people that set on flat wall. The owner sets, as well as a couple of climbers that set in return for their membership. Some have never climbed outdoors, some have been climbing for 20+ years.

Basically, if you set decent routes, and are willing to work with climber's feedback, you can set. If your routes suck, we'll either try to help you out, or discourage you from setting.

That does change for comps, where we will hire 5 or 6 setters for a couple of days, as most of our climbers are climbing in the comp, and the rest of us are...well, running around like madmen getting a comp organized!


(This post was edited by ctardi on Aug 5, 2007, 11:59 AM)

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