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edmontonalta
Aug 5, 2007, 6:36 AM
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I bought it because i thought it self-brakes but I watched the video at petzl.com they only show it breaking when you are belaying someone else. Im looking for something that will brake when Im repelling or walking across a steep snow bank. Is the grigri what I want? There video says to use shunt or prusik loop when repelling.
(This post was edited by edmontonalta on Aug 5, 2007, 6:38 AM)
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jp_sucks
Aug 5, 2007, 8:02 AM
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reverso won't self lock when rapping. Grigri will lock but not guaranteed. If you really want a self-locking rap device, you need to find a petzl stop.
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edmontonalta
Aug 5, 2007, 8:15 AM
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jp_sucks wrote: reverso won't self lock when rapping. Grigri will lock but not guaranteed. If you really want a self-locking rap device, you need to find a petzl stop.
I assume you mean the shunt thing. Its basically a mechanical prussik? thanks:)
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mr-pink
Aug 5, 2007, 1:53 PM
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the petzl stop is a rappel device with a built in brake.
Because you have allready bought the reverso, it's cheaper to buy a prussic or a (more expensive) shunt
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8flood8
Aug 5, 2007, 1:58 PM
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the shunt will back up your rappel and you can use it as an ascender in a jam as well.
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flint
Aug 5, 2007, 2:25 PM
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Hey MODS, can we please delete these threads, and maybe Edmontonalta. He/She is clearly doing more damage than good, and they are not listening to any advice. This is particullarly a problem because they are posting in the beginners forum, which has been discribed to him/her as a focal point of people who are trying to learn and who could get the wrong ideas.
Thank you.
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moose_droppings
Aug 5, 2007, 6:06 PM
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edmontonalta wrote: I bought it because i thought it self-brakes but I watched the video at petzl.com they only show it breaking when you are belaying someone else. Im looking for something that will brake when Im repelling or walking across a steep snow bank. Is the grigri what I want? There video says to use shunt or prusik loop when repelling.
I'm done feeding this guy.
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swaghole
Aug 5, 2007, 6:44 PM
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Just use a prussik as a back up and let it do the braking when you need to go hands free (you are uisng one, right??) If you are not familiar with how the prussik can be used for 'hands off' braking with a rappel device, have someone knowledgeable show you. A number of things can go wrong if you don't set up the prussik correctly, with side effects ranging from incontinence to death- make sure you know what you are doing before using it.
(This post was edited by swaghole on Aug 5, 2007, 7:34 PM)
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Valarc
Aug 6, 2007, 2:32 PM
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edmontonalta wrote: jp_sucks wrote: If you really want a self-locking rap device, you need to find a petzl stop. I assume you mean the shunt thing. Its basically a mechanical prussik? thanks:)
Not to feed the troll or anything, but it oughtta be clarified that the shunt and the stop are NOT the same device. The stop is designed for descending, and the shunt is designed for ascending.
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pastprime
Aug 6, 2007, 7:10 PM
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Valarc wrote: edmontonalta wrote: jp_sucks wrote: If you really want a self-locking rap device, you need to find a petzl stop. I assume you mean the shunt thing. Its basically a mechanical prussik? thanks:) Not to feed the troll or anything, but it oughtta be clarified that the shunt and the stop are NOT the same device. The stop is designed for descending, and the shunt is designed for ascending.
One point of correction: I have a shunt, like it a lot.
It works well as a backup for rappelling or any other use where you might want to hang on the rope and have both hands free, and that is one of the uses for it covered in the manufacturer's instruction sheet.
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rocknice2
Aug 6, 2007, 7:17 PM
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pastprime wrote: Valarc wrote: edmontonalta wrote: jp_sucks wrote: If you really want a self-locking rap device, you need to find a petzl stop. I assume you mean the shunt thing. Its basically a mechanical prussik? thanks:) Not to feed the troll or anything, but it oughtta be clarified that the shunt and the stop are NOT the same device. The stop is designed for descending, and the shunt is designed for ascending. One point of correction: I have a shunt, like it a lot. It works well as a backup for rappelling or any other use where you might want to hang on the rope and have both hands free, and that is one of the uses for it covered in the manufacturer's instruction sheet.
There is a problem trying to release it when you want to reengage the rappel.
You need to set it below the rappel device for it make transitions possible.
(This post was edited by rocknice2 on Aug 6, 2007, 7:19 PM)
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shockabuku
Aug 6, 2007, 7:22 PM
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rocknice2 wrote: pastprime wrote: Valarc wrote: edmontonalta wrote: jp_sucks wrote: If you really want a self-locking rap device, you need to find a petzl stop. I assume you mean the shunt thing. Its basically a mechanical prussik? thanks:) Not to feed the troll or anything, but it oughtta be clarified that the shunt and the stop are NOT the same device. The stop is designed for descending, and the shunt is designed for ascending. One point of correction: I have a shunt, like it a lot. It works well as a backup for rappelling or any other use where you might want to hang on the rope and have both hands free, and that is one of the uses for it covered in the manufacturer's instruction sheet. There is a problem trying to release it when you want to reengage the rappel. You need to set it below the rappel device for it make transitions possible.
A Shunt? Not sure what you mean by transitions, but if you want to stop and then go on rappel it can be set either above or below the rappel device.
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rocknice2
Aug 6, 2007, 11:38 PM
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Let's say your on rappel and you need to stop to whatever. You engage[release] the shunt. Now your totally hanging on the shunt.
You finish whatever and you want to continue rappelling.
If the shunt is above the rap device, it'll be fully loaded by body weight. In my experience I couldn't get it to release it's grip without attaching a long sling so that I could step up and raise my rap device.
With the shunt below the ATC, I just gave it a good whack and it released.
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anykineclimb
Aug 7, 2007, 1:05 AM
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the OP is asking about RAPPELLING not belaying a second
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rocknice2
Aug 7, 2007, 1:31 AM
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mikebarter387 wrote: mike to the rescue again [sucks]http://youboob.com/don'twatch?v=1N2aLXqX37c[/sucks]
Link fixed
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stymingersfink
Aug 7, 2007, 7:19 AM
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rocknice2 wrote: mikebarter387 wrote: mike to the rescue again [sucks]http://youboob.com/don'twatch?v=1N2aLXqX37c[/sucks] Link fixed  Why yes, you did fix that link, didn't you!
WTF is up with that guy, anyway? All he ever does is post links to some crappy video my 6 y.o. niece could have produced and directed better... and she doesn't even climb!
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shockabuku
Aug 7, 2007, 9:24 AM
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rocknice2 wrote: Let's say your on rappel and you need to stop to whatever. You engage[release] the shunt. Now your totally hanging on the shunt. You finish whatever and you want to continue rappelling. If the shunt is above the rap device, it'll be fully loaded by body weight. In my experience I couldn't get it to release it's grip without attaching a long sling so that I could step up and raise my rap device. With the shunt below the ATC, I just gave it a good whack and it released.
I would agree that it's easier with the Shunt below, though I can't recall ever having severe difficulty releasing it when it's hooked above the rap device. I will admit that I usually use it below now myself.
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billcoe_
Aug 7, 2007, 11:01 PM
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edmontonalta wrote: I bought it because i thought it self-brakes but I watched the video at petzl.com they only show it breaking when you are belaying someone else. Im looking for something that will brake when Im repelling or walking across a steep snow bank. Is the grigri what I want? There video says to use shunt or prusik loop when repelling.
Sure: just being an experienced partner along and have them pull on the bottom of the rope as you rap with your Reverso. It will Self-Brake right away.
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