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freudian
Sep 24, 2002, 6:43 PM
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Im a real Chalk-Whore... Every few moves I have to chalk up due to my moist hands. Recently, I've tried other people's chalk and it worked alot better than mine. I could do many more moves per chalk-up. (im talking trad climbing). -- So my question is, what's the best kinda chalk? Brand/type? FREUDIAN
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bsperes
Sep 24, 2002, 7:11 PM
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Hands down the answer is pusher. For loose in a chalk pot or for filling a chalk ball it is great. Has small clumps and is not slippery. In a pinch I'll mix it with Bison.
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dune
Sep 24, 2002, 9:25 PM
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There was a review in Climbing mag on chalk brands 'bout 2-3 years ago. Unlike most reviews where there's no clear picture as to what the best product is/was, but in this case the clear winner was Metolius Superchalk. I've used three different kinds and I prefer Superchalk.
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tigerbythetail
Sep 24, 2002, 10:18 PM
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Metolius Super Chalk.
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cloudbreak
Sep 24, 2002, 11:10 PM
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I have only used Bison and Metolious, and much prefer the Metolious Super Chalk.
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airscape
Sep 24, 2002, 11:16 PM
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METOLIUS CHALK by faaaaaaaarrrrr. It is very hard for me to come by metolius chalk, it has to be shipped here, so I am usually forced to go with petzl, just the plain magnesium carbonate. It is not nearly as good as metolius. Btw, i think the additive that metolius use is magnesium hydroxide, with magnesium carbonate. I am not too sure however? Does anyone know? I know also if you want extremely cheap magnesium carbonate, then buy it directly from chemical manufacturers (see yellow pages) or chemists. it's like a 1/3 the price of climbing brand names. If someone could just give clearance on the additive that metolius uses, maybe we can buy that too and make our own chalk mixes.
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freudian
Sep 25, 2002, 3:59 PM
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SO basically everyone says to use Metolius Super Chalk. That's the kind I've been using, but it doesn't work very well for me. It won't work in a chalk ball. I have to empty it loosely into my chalk bag and do it that way. I think im going to try and find some Bison. Maybe I will mix Metolius and Bison together. FREUDIAN
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radistrad
Sep 25, 2002, 4:15 PM
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I prefer the Bison over the Metiolus. I felt the Met is a bit greasy and gave mine away.
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mtnsprts
Sep 25, 2002, 5:04 PM
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I have used Flashed Chalk and Metolious Super Chalk. I prefer the metolious.....
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cloudbreak
Sep 25, 2002, 5:13 PM
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Maybe try a Bison ball with loose Met Super Chalk around it in your bag. [ This Message was edited by: cloudbreak on 2002-09-25 10:13 ]
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blackboard
Sep 25, 2002, 9:50 PM
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This kind of depends on how much you sweat. I have a moderate case of hyperhidrosis, and couldn't have chosen a more incompatible passion! I started out with a Metolius chalk ball filled with Super Chalk, and it was horrible. Here's why: the sock's main purpose is to give conservative doses of chalk, which proved too stingy for my needs. On top of that, it also acted like a sifter, coating my hands with only the finest particles of chalk and "secret additive" (thereby negating the benefit of mixed textures). This fine dust was quick to absorb moisture, but also turned into a slippery paste when exposed to too much. After that, I tried a block of Frank Endo chalk, and crumbled it straight into my chalk bag. This was grittier, giving me a better grip, and I liked the combination of dunking in the powder, and pinching the pebble sized bits (for finger contact and meditation). Seeing that I still had some chalk in the abandoned sock, I later emptied it into my chalk bag, and discovered that it added some drying power to the grittier stuff. Feeling experimental, I then bought a bag of loose Super Chalk and tried using that alone. This turned out much better than sifting it through the sock, but I still got a coating of slurry from the finer particles (albeit a lighter coating). I now mix about a 1:3 to 1:4 ratio of Super Chalk to Frank Endo. This mixture dries better than uncut Endo and lasts longer between dunks. Now, regarding what I think the additive to Super Chalk is, my guess would be starch. For normal amounts of sweat, this seems like a good choice. Corn starch has great absorbing power, and it's non-Newtonian properties (do a google search for for "ooblech") would seem beneficial for climbing. For me, however, the non-Newtonian properties only came into effect when I rubbed my hands together vigorously to get the stuff off (THEN it would crumble back into dust). This is because the place where the slime forms is also where my hands sweat most: the edge from the base of the pinky, down to the wrist, and back up to the side of my thumb. This area get's very little contact compared to my fingers, so there isn't constant force/pressure keeping the slurry in a solid state. Consequently, when I do have to use those sufaces (mantling, hand-smears, slopers) I need to clean off (t-shirt, forehead, leg hairs, etc), redunk, grab, and move before the fresh powder turns to mud. Of course, that's all under the assumption that the additive is starch (Pending experiment: Adding some corn starch to Frank Endo chalk and see how it performs compared to Endo + Super Chalk). So, to summarize: Coarser stuff will not turn to slime, give better granular traction (if needed), but will also come off your hands quicker (more dunking). Finer stuff (including starch) dries faster and stays on longer, but turns to paste if sweating is excessive. That's probably more information than you'll ever need to know about chalk, but that's coming from someone who's alway covered in it (hence the handle "blackboard") Ok, I'm going to stop typing,...now.
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freudian
Sep 26, 2002, 3:01 AM
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Blackboard: That was a great reply. Thanks for the info. I think what I'm gonna do is just use loose metolius super chalk in my bag, and the gym and outdoors be damned, if they don't like loose chalk they can throw me out! **grin** My fingers have very good GRIP on the rocks, when they are dry, but they are always moist when i touch rock. FREUDIAN
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farmerc
Sep 26, 2002, 3:19 AM
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Chalk!? you don't need chalk!
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alvchen
Oct 4, 2002, 7:18 PM
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Has anyone ever used Metolius's Eco Chalk?
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xanx
Oct 4, 2002, 10:06 PM
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never used eco chalk, sounds good though as i am a total gym rat. to original question: Bison STINKS! Metolius Super CHalk is good, but will absolutely tear apart ur hands Pusher chalk is the kindest, nicest, dryest, best, softest chalk out there. get it. now. go. are u still reading? y aren't u out getting it? come one, GO!
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dimeedge
Oct 4, 2002, 10:43 PM
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. . Sometimes I find myself staring up at a route or a problem with one or both hands behind me, in my chalk bag... My question is chalk somehow related to that bubble wrap packing stuff? On a route I dont use much, but on the ground I cant help but dip my fingers in.
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blackboard
Oct 4, 2002, 11:07 PM
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You're not alone dimeedge, I'm a devout diciple of the Zen of Chalk. The analogue to bubble wrap is damn fitting, because when my hands are in the bag, I'm always crushing the chalk pebbles between my fingers (though I always compared that habit to worry beads or rosaries). And to those who say we don't need chalk to climb, I'd agree. We also don't need shoes , but few are quick to point that out in every thread regarding footwear.
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topher
Oct 4, 2002, 11:24 PM
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flashed chalk is sweet, its nice and soft on your hands and last for ever, motolius calk just feels nasty on the hands. i actula yook them up on there best chalk ever, money back garennte.
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caerbannog_rabbit
Oct 4, 2002, 11:52 PM
Post #19 of 24
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i think the concensus is metolius superchalk i will try the cornstarch thing [ This Message was edited by: caerbannog_rabbit on 2002-10-04 17:01 ]
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jetace
Oct 5, 2002, 12:28 AM
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this forum is an ode to Jeff, a climbing partner my friends and I like to call the chalk monster
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micronut
Oct 5, 2002, 10:08 PM
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endo........ it's cheap and you can use a whole bunch of it,like a block per session.
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jgill
Oct 5, 2002, 10:18 PM
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Registered: May 18, 2002
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Amazing how much variety there is now. When I first started using the stuff (1950s)you could either buy a small block of medicinal magnesium carbonate at some drug stores, or order gym chalk from Gymnastic Supply in San Pedro. Now, my goodness, look at the nuances! That's progress (at least for chalkheads!)
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ErnestC3
Apr 5, 2011, 2:23 PM
Post #23 of 24
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Registered: Mar 5, 2011
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[quote "alvchen"]Has anyone ever used Metolius's Eco Chalk?[/quote] I think you meant Metolius Eco-ball (chalk ball) instead of chalk
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sp115
Apr 5, 2011, 2:40 PM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2007
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In reply to: This kind of depends on how much you sweat. I have a moderate case of hyperhidrosis, and couldn't have chosen a more incompatible passion! I started out with a Metolius chalk ball filled with Super Chalk, and it was horrible. Here's why: the sock's main purpose is to give conservative doses of chalk, which proved too stingy for my needs. On top of that, it also acted like a sifter, coating my hands with only the finest particles of chalk and "secret additive" (thereby negating the benefit of mixed textures). This fine dust was quick to absorb moisture, but also turned into a slippery paste when exposed to too much. After that, I tried a block of Frank Endo chalk, and crumbled it straight into my chalk bag. This was grittier, giving me a better grip, and I liked the combination of dunking in the powder, and pinching the pebble sized bits (for finger contact and meditation). Seeing that I still had some chalk in the abandoned sock, I later emptied it into my chalk bag, and discovered that it added some drying power to the grittier stuff. Feeling experimental, I then bought a bag of loose Super Chalk and tried using that alone. This turned out much better than sifting it through the sock, but I still got a coating of slurry from the finer particles (albeit a lighter coating). I now mix about a 1:3 to 1:4 ratio of Super Chalk to Frank Endo. This mixture dries better than uncut Endo and lasts longer between dunks. Now, regarding what I think the additive to Super Chalk is, my guess would be starch. For normal amounts of sweat, this seems like a good choice. Corn starch has great absorbing power, and it's non-Newtonian properties (do a google search for for "ooblech") would seem beneficial for climbing. For me, however, the non-Newtonian properties only came into effect when I rubbed my hands together vigorously to get the stuff off (THEN it would crumble back into dust). This is because the place where the slime forms is also where my hands sweat most: the edge from the base of the pinky, down to the wrist, and back up to the side of my thumb. This area get's very little contact compared to my fingers, so there isn't constant force/pressure keeping the slurry in a solid state. Consequently, when I do have to use those sufaces (mantling, hand-smears, slopers) I need to clean off (t-shirt, forehead, leg hairs, etc), redunk, grab, and move before the fresh powder turns to mud. Of course, that's all under the assumption that the additive is starch (Pending experiment: Adding some corn starch to Frank Endo chalk and see how it performs compared to Endo + Super Chalk). So, to summarize: Coarser stuff will not turn to slime, give better granular traction (if needed), but will also come off your hands quicker (more dunking). Finer stuff (including starch) dries faster and stays on longer, but turns to paste if sweating is excessive. That's probably more information than you'll ever need to know about chalk, but that's coming from someone who's alway covered in it (hence the handle "blackboard") Ok, I'm going to stop typing,...now. I stare at my monitor, humbled by your awesome chalk-knowledge. I would not have thought it possible to compose as many words in an order that was both informative and interesting on the subject of chalk. And yet, there it is.* * I feel compelled to add, this being the In-tard-net, that the above comment was, for once, not intended as sarcasm.
(This post was edited by sp115 on Apr 5, 2011, 2:42 PM)
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