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Carnage
Aug 22, 2007, 1:36 PM
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Where are the best sport routes in NC
From my research it seems like pilot mtn (although most of em seem to be mixed =/) is the only place with a decent amount of sport routes, most of the other places like crowders, stonemountain, looking glass, all seem to have just a few sport routes but the rest are trad
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acarp
Aug 22, 2007, 1:47 PM
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I've done a few of the sport routes at Pilot, but you're right, it doesn't seem like there is much around. I'm kind of curious of this myself.
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charley
Aug 22, 2007, 4:18 PM
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welcome to nc.
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saxfiend
Aug 22, 2007, 4:27 PM
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Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC
JL
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knieveltech
Aug 22, 2007, 4:30 PM
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Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC From my research it seems like pilot mtn (although most of em seem to be mixed =/) is the only place with a decent amount of sport routes, most of the other places like crowders, stonemountain, looking glass, all seem to have just a few sport routes but the rest are trad
There's also some sport routes over on Sauratown crag. Enjoy the approach! 
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noell
Aug 22, 2007, 4:31 PM
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Sauratown has quite a few sport routes, with a pretty wide range of grades, too. I'd definitely check it out. But, it is pretty sunny up there - really great when it's cold but I can't imagine what it'd be like up there in the summer!
Pilot has some fun sport routes too - primarily in the ampitheater area (Black Rain, Overhanging Hangover, Devil in the Whitehouse, etc.) but it also has a lot of top roping routes. When I lived in NC I totally loved going there to get some climbing in.
Have fun and good luck!
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carolinakinight
Aug 22, 2007, 4:45 PM
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while we're at it - anybody know where the best ice climbing is in mexico?
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Carnage
Aug 22, 2007, 5:31 PM
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so then.....
Who want to teach me to be a sick nasty trad leader??? 
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knieveltech
Aug 22, 2007, 5:47 PM
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mr8615 wrote: carolinakinight wrote: while we're at it - anybody know where the best ice climbing is in mexico? Nice analogy, pretty much sums it up. Wait... aren't most of the routes at Stone Mtn. sport??
I was under the impression that many of the routes at stone feature 20-40 ft runouts between bolts. I'm not sure that qualifies as sport.
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justroberto
Aug 22, 2007, 5:54 PM
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mr8615 wrote: Wait... aren't most of the routes at Stone Mtn. sport??
'Member, climbing isn't permittted at S-Town in the summer. In fact, it doesn't even exist between April and September, my hand to dog. It just plain vanishes into thin air.
You're kind of a haul from Boone, but Warpin's good.
(This post was edited by justroberto on Aug 22, 2007, 9:46 PM)
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knieveltech
Aug 22, 2007, 6:39 PM
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justroberto wrote: mr8615 wrote: Wait... aren't most of the routes at Stone Mtn. sport?? Yup, just like most of those ice climbs down in Tijuana... 'Member, climbing isn't permittted at S-Town in the summer. In fact, it doesn't even exist between April and September, my hand to dog. It just plain vanishes into thin air. You're kind of a haul from Boone, but Warpin's good.
Probably for the best. I suspect it gets rather hot up there during the summer months. For those wishing to simulate the experience strap on a daypack and hike up 50 flights of stairs while wearing three pairs of thermals, then set yourself on fire when you get to the top.
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ja1484
Aug 22, 2007, 6:49 PM
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Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC?
In Kentucky.
Now get a rack or get out of my state 
knieveltech wrote: I was under the impression that many of the routes at stone feature 20-40 ft runouts between bolts. I'm not sure that qualifies as sport.
You damn kids these days. I swear to God.
Stone Mountain is traditional climbing, and almost all the routes there were bolted by hand from the groud UP, not the other way round, because there is No Alternative (j_ung and others familiar with the area will get that pun). This means bolts are found at good stances and crux moves have not a damn thing near them except your exceptional footwork.
20-40 feet at Stone is NOT run out. That is VERY WELL PROTECTED. Run out at Stone means there is no protection between belays, which is VERY common on the longer routes (Grand Funk Railroad, The Pulpit, etc). I forget the name of the route out there where the third pitch belay is a firm stance on top of a large quartz block because there are (and will be) no bolts or gear placements.
Run outs in NC start at 75 feet above your last piece. Anything shorter is just whining.
SACK UP! (and be smart - don't get on something you might regret)
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Aug 22, 2007, 6:56 PM)
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knieveltech
Aug 22, 2007, 7:01 PM
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ja1484 wrote: Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC? In Kentucky. Now get a rack or get out of my state knieveltech wrote: I was under the impression that many of the routes at stone feature 20-40 ft runouts between bolts. I'm not sure that qualifies as sport. You damn kids these days. I swear to God. Stone Mountain is traditional climbing, and almost all the routes there were bolted by hand from the groud UP, not the other way round, because there is No Alternative (j_ung and others familiar with the area will get that pun). This means bolts are found at good stances and crux moves have not a damn thing near them except your exceptional footwork. 20-40 feet at Stone is NOT run out. That is VERY WELL PROTECTED. Run out at Stone means there is no protection between belays, which is VERY common on the longer routes (Grand Funk Railroad, The Pulpit, etc). I forget the name of the route out there where the third pitch belay is a firm stance on top of a large quartz block because there are (and will be) no bolts or gear placements. Run outs in NC start at 75 feet above your last piece. Anything shorter is just whining. SACK UP! (and be smart - don't get on something you might regret)
Yeah, gotta love those granite domes. With all due respect to the FA's (who clearly had balls the size of cantaloupes) fuck a 70' runout. No way am I setting myself up to get cheesegratered by 140' (+ rope stretch) worth of premium NC slab. I'll stick to crack climbing.
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charley
Aug 22, 2007, 7:47 PM
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knieveltech wrote: ja1484 wrote: Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC? In Kentucky. Now get a rack or get out of my state Well, then try access crack @ stone. It's only 5.4 R knieveltech wrote: I was under the impression that many of the routes at stone feature 20-40 ft runouts between bolts. I'm not sure that qualifies as sport. You damn kids these days. I swear to God. Stone Mountain is traditional climbing, and almost all the routes there were bolted by hand from the groud UP, not the other way round, because there is No Alternative (j_ung and others familiar with the area will get that pun). This means bolts are found at good stances and crux moves have not a damn thing near them except your exceptional footwork. 20-40 feet at Stone is NOT run out. That is VERY WELL PROTECTED. Run out at Stone means there is no protection between belays, which is VERY common on the longer routes (Grand Funk Railroad, The Pulpit, etc). I forget the name of the route out there where the third pitch belay is a firm stance on top of a large quartz block because there are (and will be) no bolts or gear placements. Run outs in NC start at 75 feet above your last piece. Anything shorter is just whining. SACK UP! (and be smart - don't get on something you might regret) Yeah, gotta love those granite domes. With all due respect to the FA's (who clearly had balls the size of cantaloupes) fuck a 70' runout. No way am I setting myself up to get cheesegratered by 140' (+ rope stretch) worth of premium NC slab. I'll stick to crack climbing. |
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jsj7051
Aug 23, 2007, 2:28 AM
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What walls are you familar with at Crowders? Red wall and Hidden wall have a good bit and there are more.
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Carnage
Aug 23, 2007, 4:14 PM
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jsj7051 wrote: What walls are you familar with at Crowders? Red wall and Hidden wall have a good bit and there are more.
ive looked it up, never been there. ive check out the website and the sport stuff doesn't really seem to be worth the drive for me.
(This post was edited by Carnage on Aug 23, 2007, 4:14 PM)
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saxfiend
Aug 23, 2007, 4:33 PM
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Heh heh, if you ever want to get a rise out of people, all you have to do is refer to Stone Mountain routes as sport climbing.
ja1484 wrote: Stone Mountain is traditional climbing, and almost all the routes there were bolted by hand from the groud UP, not the other way round, because there is No Alternative (j_ung and others familiar with the area will get that pun).
ja1484 wrote: 20-40 feet at Stone is NOT run out. That is VERY WELL PROTECTED.
JL
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Carnage
Aug 23, 2007, 6:31 PM
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im really not looking to get seriously injured tho, thats why im not really interested in stone mountain. Why would you go to stone, get 70' runout, slip by accident at the 65' mark and have a live changing injury?
call me a wuss, but not worth it in my book. im just looking to have a good time on the weekends, not looking to get my ass scrapped off by some 5.6 slab
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saxfiend
Aug 23, 2007, 8:37 PM
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Carnage wrote: im really not looking to get seriously injured tho, thats why im not really interested in stone mountain. Why would you go to stone, get 70' runout, slip by accident at the 65' mark and have a live changing injury?
I don't know what part of NC you're in, but if you really want to get to some good sport climbing, you should consider Obed in Tennessee. Foster Falls is another excellent sport destination. It'll probably be a long drive, but since there's practically no sport in NC, I'm afraid you don't have much choice.
JL
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jeffkeeton
Aug 23, 2007, 9:09 PM
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People in NC should calm down a little and accept that bolts are the way of the future. 10 years from now everything will be bolted.
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limeydave
Aug 23, 2007, 9:09 PM
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Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC From my research it seems like pilot mtn (although most of em seem to be mixed =/) is the only place with a decent amount of sport routes, most of the other places like crowders, stonemountain, looking glass, all seem to have just a few sport routes but the rest are trad
For a daytrip, Pilot or Sauratown are your best bet in your grade.
The New is 4.5 hours away for a quality weekend of bolt clipping.
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knieveltech
Aug 23, 2007, 9:21 PM
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limeydave wrote: Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC From my research it seems like pilot mtn (although most of em seem to be mixed =/) is the only place with a decent amount of sport routes, most of the other places like crowders, stonemountain, looking glass, all seem to have just a few sport routes but the rest are trad For a daytrip, Pilot or Sauratown are your best bet in your grade. The New is 4.5 hours away for a quality weekend of bolt clipping.
Speaking of the New, me and Gabe a headed up there Labor Day weekend, interested?
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saxfiend
Aug 23, 2007, 11:30 PM
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jeffkeeton wrote: People in NC should calm down a little and accept that bolts are the way of the future. 10 years from now everything will be bolted.
JL
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ja1484
Aug 24, 2007, 12:14 PM
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charley wrote: knieveltech wrote: ja1484 wrote: Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC? In Kentucky. Now get a rack or get out of my state R knieveltech wrote: I was under the impression that many of the routes at stone feature 20-40 ft runouts between bolts. I'm not sure that qualifies as sport. You damn kids these days. I swear to God. Stone Mountain is traditional climbing, and almost all the routes there were bolted by hand from the groud UP, not the other way round, because there is No Alternative (j_ung and others familiar with the area will get that pun). This means bolts are found at good stances and crux moves have not a damn thing near them except your exceptional footwork. 20-40 feet at Stone is NOT run out. That is VERY WELL PROTECTED. Run out at Stone means there is no protection between belays, which is VERY common on the longer routes (Grand Funk Railroad, The Pulpit, etc). I forget the name of the route out there where the third pitch belay is a firm stance on top of a large quartz block because there are (and will be) no bolts or gear placements. Run outs in NC start at 75 feet above your last piece. Anything shorter is just whining. SACK UP! (and be smart - don't get on something you might regret) Yeah, gotta love those granite domes. With all due respect to the FA's (who clearly had balls the size of cantaloupes) fuck a 70' runout. No way am I setting myself up to get cheesegratered by 140' (+ rope stretch) worth of premium NC slab. I'll stick to crack climbing. Well, then try access crack @ stone. It's only 5.4
I don't care what any guidebook says, entrance crack is 3rd class.
Moving on from that, if you're gonna climb in Carolina, you better get good and comfy with both slabs and runouts. And thank God for local ethics. I'm tired of seeing climbing sanitized and neutered for yuppie suburbanites to have a carefree weekend. Thank God there are still places like Stone and Whiteside that have big flashing signs up saying "Don't f*ck. You better mean business before you show up here."
I love the Carolina ethic and wouldn't have it any other way. The climbing here scurrs you too much, move.
And please don't stick to one type of climbing. Specialists aren't climbers.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Aug 24, 2007, 12:19 PM)
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