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Dweazle35
Aug 27, 2007, 2:31 PM
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hey all, I know this has been posted quite a bit buuuuuuut, I am a somewhat experienced sport climber and want to get involved in some trad stuff. I have done a little trad climbing with some friends gear and I have found for the things I will be climbing most often I would very easily be able to get by with much more passive protection then active. I was thinking to start up I would buy:
ABC huevos nuts: 1-13
BD wired hexes: 7-9
CAMS(not sure which brand): i was thinking of buying 3-5 but I'm not sure which sizes or brands to go with.
Obviously I'll build off it from there but does it seem like a good way to start to most people?
Thanks,
JAke
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billcoe_
Aug 27, 2007, 2:39 PM
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Sounds good, but you might drop the small nuts in favor of a set of HB's or BD Micronuts, and also, if you are refering to #5 camalot and not a #5 Metolius (they are waaayyy different sizes, then I'd suggest NOT buying those.
In Camalot sizes, I'd get a Green, Red, Gold and maybe a Blue depending on your routes to start. Thats approx 1" - 2-3". If you get the Metolius small and Med Supercam's you will have this range covered.
You'll find that a #10 or #11 hex will fit in those wide places and are significantly cheaper than cams of that size range. The Hexes which rate high are the Wild Country Rockcentrics on slings, not wires and the Metolius curved.
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ja1484
Aug 27, 2007, 2:46 PM
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A good set of wired nuts, a good set of wired hexes, and grab some midsized C4s or large sized Metolius PowerCams.
For the C4s, I'd recommend the following sizes off the bat: .75, 1, 2, 3
Bonus: .5
For the Powercams: 4, 6, 7, 8
Bonus: 5
You'll also want to grab some 48" slings (4 - 6) and 24" slings (10 or so) so you can sling your pro properly. A couple 10' lengths of 1" webbing and some rap rings are not a bad idea either...sometimes it's the only way down.
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flint
Aug 27, 2007, 3:07 PM
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backcountry.com has a 5 set of BD C4's .5-3 that is perfect for a new leader. I personally prefer metolius, but BD seem a little easier to place for beginners, and the range of this set is perfect.
Also, Metolius makes a large set of wired hexes with slings, these are a nice, and saves some money on runners. I would throw these in a drop the BD hexes. ABC nuts are cheep, just make sure you don't buy and place aid sizes when you are free climbing.
Good luck with the rack and the crack addiction
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trenchdigger
Aug 27, 2007, 3:14 PM
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ja1484 wrote: You'll also want to grab some 48" slings (4 - 6) and 24" slings (10 or so) so you can sling your pro properly. A couple 10' lengths of 1" webbing and some rap rings are not a bad idea either...sometimes it's the only way down.
4-6 48" slings? I've never needed more than 2 48" slings on a pitch, and I rarely if ever carry more than one, even for alpine stuff.
Also, don't forget free carabiners to go with the cams, rack pro on, and include some lockers for anchors.
Protection-wise, your list sounds pretty good. I would probably go down another size with the hexes and include a #6, and maybe a #10. I find the #6 to be one of the more frequently used hexes when I climb with them, and the #10 is nice to have sometimes too.
Also, REI has the Metolius Ultralight Power Cams on sale right now... 25% off.
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deane
Aug 27, 2007, 3:19 PM
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I wouldn't bother with the 1-3 Huevos, 1 & 2 are rated for body weight only so unless you plan on aiding with them I'd go with the alpine set 4-13.
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Dweazle35
Aug 27, 2007, 3:39 PM
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ok, thanks guys, this is a little confusing, could someone maybe give me a revised list of what i put down? That would be awesome. I am thinking that i want to keep my initial purchase under 300$. is that plausible?
Thanks again,
JAke
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shrug7
Aug 27, 2007, 3:40 PM
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I'm in the middle of my building my rack.
So far I have been focusing on getting the C4's .4 - 4 (doubles of some) after seeing a people fight with hexs while on lead i'm not going to bother.
If you're not sure what brand you like, borrow from friends who climb. Figure out what you like before dropping the $ on something.
I second the "don't bother with the #1-3 nuts."
Get about 10 or so trad draws.
Just a note: everyone gonna telling you something different, racks are based on personal choice, location of where you are going to climb and how much $ you want (can) to spend.
(This post was edited by shrug7 on Aug 27, 2007, 3:43 PM)
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Dweazle35
Aug 27, 2007, 3:45 PM
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whats the difference between a trad draw and quickdraws used in sport climbing?
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trenchdigger
Aug 27, 2007, 4:08 PM
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Here's a list...
Start with a set of nuts. Sized 1-3 aren't necessary for you right now, so if you can find the set without them for less $$$, get that set.
Then get the hexes, #6-9.
Now, go get yourself some slings and free carabiners so you can properly sling these pieces. Spectra is worth the extra money for the decrease in bulk. Get 8 slings and 2 'biners for each. Do a search to see what people prefer. This will eat up half of your $300 budget, but you'll need these with the nuts and hexes.
With whatever you have left, invest in some cams. Get good ones. Don't forget a carabiner to rack each one on. Save up and buy based on your preference even if they're not the cheapest. If you don't have a preference, you probably shouldn't be buying all of your own gear just yet anyway. cCimb on someone else's gear to learn what you like & don't like.
Save up more money and buy more cams. In the mean time, practice placing the gear you have.
Enjoy...
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ja1484
Aug 27, 2007, 4:54 PM
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trenchdigger wrote: ja1484 wrote: You'll also want to grab some 48" slings (4 - 6) and 24" slings (10 or so) so you can sling your pro properly. A couple 10' lengths of 1" webbing and some rap rings are not a bad idea either...sometimes it's the only way down. 4-6 48" slings? I've never needed more than 2 48" slings on a pitch, and I rarely if ever carry more than one, even for alpine stuff.
Bring only 2 48" slings with you to Carolina. See what happens. A lot of people around here just throw in the towel and climb on double ropes, which I'm preparing to do sooner rather than later. Wandering pro and tiered roofs are the norm, not the exception.
Granted, all this stuff is regionally different, but I'd rather have more than I need than the other way around, and slings are cheap.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Aug 27, 2007, 4:57 PM)
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trenchdigger
Aug 27, 2007, 5:14 PM
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Interesting... never heard that. But the only place I climbed in the Carolinas is Stone Mountain. With only a few bolts per slab pitch, rope drag iwasn't much of an issue  . Still, I'd contest that 48" slings are a somewhat "specialized" part of a rack that are infrequently used on most traditional routes. This further supports the argument that the OP should learn better what he needs by climbing with others' gear before buying a bunch of gear.
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ja1484
Aug 27, 2007, 5:35 PM
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trenchdigger wrote: Interesting... never heard that. But the only place I climbed in the Carolinas is Stone Mountain. With only a few bolts per slab pitch, rope drag iwasn't much of an issue . Still, I'd contest that 48" slings are a somewhat "specialized" part of a rack that are infrequently used on most traditional routes. This further supports the argument that the OP should learn better what he needs by climbing with others' gear before buying a bunch of gear.
Absolutely agree - find the rack for your area.
NC, for example, loves hexes. People everywhere diss 'em, but when they come here, you won't see a rack without at least 2 or 3. I typically carry 2 - 6 depending on where I'm climbing.
Stone Mountain is also one of my favorite crags in the state because it is almost the pinnacle of the North Carolina ethic. If you want to climb, said the backwater stalwarts of North Carolina, you better have your head in order and you better have fully accepted the risk you're taking. Don't do it half baked, and don't do it if you're not prepared for the consequences.
Come back and try Moore's Wall or Ship Rock. You'll find out why you need those slings ;)
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caughtinside
Aug 27, 2007, 5:48 PM
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you can always just clip two shoulder length slings together.
Or double a 48" sling I guess, which is only slightly more of a pain.
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granite_grrl
Aug 27, 2007, 5:58 PM
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Consider a different brand of hexes. I climb on the BD's, and while they work I have heard from most people that curved varities are superior (maybe research hex brands and get other's opinions).
If you like the idea of wired hexes vs slung, they don't really due much for you. Due to their offset nature they are rarely placed by holding onto the wire.
Lastly, you haven't you climbed on other people's racks and already know what brands of cams you like? This is a was to discover what you like before you buy.
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ja1484
Aug 27, 2007, 6:45 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: Consider a different brand of hexes. I climb on the BD's, and while they work I have heard from most people that curved varities are superior .
I have yet to see any indication that it makes an appreciable difference. FWIW, I prefer the straight sided units, probably because that's what I started with.
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the_climber
Sep 4, 2007, 7:34 PM
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It sounds like a good start, but like the others are saying, go with the WC hexes. I have some of both, and like both, but am considering cutting the wires out of the BD's and slinging them with tech cord. Straight vs. curved... both have pros and cons, IMHO neither really comes out on top with the pros and cons, but the curved do seem to work very well in the local limestone around here.
To give you an Idea what I started with (the replacement at least, my original gear met an untimely end due to getting crushed by the truck which rear-ended me at 80+km/h when I was stopped):
#3-#13 Smileys (Basically the same a ABC nuts)
#1.5 DMM 3CU
#2.5, #3.5, #4 Friends
#8, #9 BD Hexes
A 5m cord, a double sling, 6 single slings, 4 draws, and two lockers. (obviously excluding my belay device and racking biners... all 4 of them )
I was able to get up many routes on Yamnuska and around the Bow Valley with that, up to about 5.7/5.8.
#0.5 through #2 Tricams came shortly after (limited cash at time of purchace).
I guess my point is that you can 'get by' with a smaller rack. Actually I think many climbers would benift (skill wize) by starting out with less gear, it forces you to really work on spotting those placements.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Sep 4, 2007, 7:43 PM)
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Dweazle35
Sep 8, 2007, 2:10 PM
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Okay, Thanks you guys for all you're help. What I have as of right now is - BD stoppers 4-13, a full set of Rock Empire Robot Cams (I know, some people hate em but i really do like them), Two smallest aliens ( I get all mixed up with the sizing between different cams). Thats it for now, but tommorow i plan on picking up some metolius curved hexes (still not sure what sizes) and the 3 smallest sizes of tricams. This list obviously doesnt include draws and whatnot, but Im lazy. Once again, thank you all for you're help, and keep the advice comin!
lotsa luv,
JAke
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tichy
Sep 10, 2007, 4:00 PM
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For any gear, my advice is rather simple. Try to use as many as different devices and methods as possible from fellow partners before buying your own. That would give you very good feel what is available and what feels best. Of course if you do not have that change, you can rely on recommendations.
There are quite bit of differences with each bit of gear and your own hands on evaluation is probably the best way to find right one for you.
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