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Avoiding upside down lead falls on crack.
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RockStarr


Sep 11, 2007, 7:14 AM
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Avoiding upside down lead falls on crack.
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This week end has been my second weekend to squamish. And my first really good dosage to solid trad (not tope rope) crack climbing. (Hard stuff when its new!) And i had a few troubles with the stradegy of placing gear and not having the rope run behind my calf (scarry stuff on a tense move). We were using nothing but long slings for each piece so they wouldn't walk (the lines were pretty straight although leaning left or right on some )but i would always find the rope behind my calf. I noticed it even more on my buddy.

Should we be more conscience of it and avoid it that way? Is there a better stradegy?

I dont live too close to squamish so i cant really figure it out in my head ,,,Blushthats why i ask y'all.Smile

JP


Partner angry


Sep 11, 2007, 7:17 AM
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Re: [RockStarr] Avoiding upside down lead falls on crack. [In reply to]
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You will almost always climb with the rope running over your shin on straight cracks. This keeps your legs behind the rope and makes it less likely to catch your leg.

There are always exceptions....


tradmanclimbs


Sep 11, 2007, 7:20 AM
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Re: [angry] Avoiding upside down lead falls on crack. [In reply to]
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I strongly discourage the use of crack while lead falling upside down or otherwise....


dingus


Sep 11, 2007, 7:21 AM
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Re: [RockStarr] Avoiding upside down lead falls on crack. [In reply to]
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From my personal observations over the years, I think yes you should be more conscious of it.

The rope should go 'over the hip,' (my term) and not dangle through the legs at all. By having the rope ove the hip its also less likely to fall back between the legs.

As you move past your high piece you often have to take a deliberate step outside of the rope. It should be habit. As you get more proficient you'll use your toe do to this, a quick flick of the rope.

Or a free hand, flick the rope from under one foot and then lay it over that hip, perferrably on the side that you're about to step up with. That way the rope will stay there till at least you stand up.

But if you persist in letting the rope ride behind your calf? Or your partner does this? WEAR A HELMET. Its only a matter of time before you do the ole flip flop and smack your noggin.

All that said there are times when there is little option.... the rope is behind yoru calf, you know it and there isn't anything you can really do about it other than 'DON'T FALL RIGHT NOW.'

Cheers
DMT


RockStarr


Sep 11, 2007, 7:27 AM
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Re: [dingus] Avoiding upside down lead falls on crack. [In reply to]
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Wicked! THanks dude that totally makes sence. just a little flick or the toe to keep the rope on the outside. rather than just step up with the rope running between the legs. and keep it there....

Lets say the crrack leans left... would it be better to have the rope on the right side of my body?


RockStarr


Sep 11, 2007, 7:29 AM
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Re: [tradmanclimbs] Avoiding upside down lead falls on crack. [In reply to]
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tradmanclimbs wrote:
I strongly discourage the use of crack while lead falling upside down or otherwise....

LOL...Yeah crack would mudle my good judgement.Wink


dingus


Sep 11, 2007, 7:33 AM
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Re: [RockStarr] Avoiding upside down lead falls on crack. [In reply to]
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RockStarr wrote:
Wicked! THanks dude that totally makes sence. just a little flick or the toe to keep the rope on the outside. rather than just step up with the rope running between the legs. and keep it there....

Lets say the crrack leans left... would it be better to have the rope on the right side of my body?

Yup. You end up thinking about it just like you might with the gate orientation on sport draws. If you're going THIS WAY face the gates THAT WAY. Pretty simple stuff.

Same for the rope... if I were trending left I would tend to have the rope oriented over my right hip.

Cheers
DMT


tradmanclimbs


Sep 11, 2007, 7:40 AM
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Re: [RockStarr] Avoiding upside down lead falls on crack. [In reply to]
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 Crack Pipe as sung by THE HUGE MEMBERS

"watching TV I got the sound turned off--water in my pipe I can't afford to cough--poision ready got my crack pipe loaded--got to use matches cause my lighter exploded---
(chorus)
It's a hot night- and I'm wound tight- and my crack pipe -is burning my haannd-- I been Thinking-- that I Better start Drinking.....


Pretty cool song in the key of A. Sung as an anti drug song but the crack heads all seemed to really dig this one at the shows.
Not suer of the rest of it but the third verse has a line that goes: Sold the house-- sold the stocks-- trippin away on that little white rock--


troutboy


Sep 11, 2007, 8:41 AM
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Re: [dingus] Avoiding upside down lead falls on crack. [In reply to]
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Excellent response and advice from the esteemed Mr Toast. This is one of the more common mistakes leaders make. Good question and good to get in the habit of keeping the rope in front right from the start.

It's also something you should watch out for as a belayer and warn your leader of the possible problem.

TS


wonderwoman


Sep 11, 2007, 8:43 AM
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Re: [dingus] Avoiding upside down lead falls on crack. [In reply to]
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Good advice from dingus.

Take it from someone who has flipped and smacked her head:

1. develop the good habit of being conscious of where your feet are and how it will impact your fall. Pretty soon this will come naturally.

2. ask your belayer to remind you when you have the rope behind your leg. Do the same for him / her when you swing leads.

2. wear your helmet outside! (*Edited to note that I am NOT wearing a helmet in the pic on the left! Angelic)

You also mentioned using longer slings in order to prevent yourself from getting the rope behind your leg. The length of the sling or draw should not matter for that purpose. Longer slings are more for preventing rope drag, which you won't have in a straight up crack. And if you are climbing a straight up crack, you can use shorter slings or even clip directly into the piece in some cases.


(This post was edited by wonderwoman on Sep 11, 2007, 8:45 AM)


RockStarr


Sep 12, 2007, 6:15 AM
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Re: [wonderwoman] Avoiding upside down lead falls on crack. [In reply to]
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Thanks a lot I dont feel like smaking my head either. Ill make this one a habit for sure.

BTW my english skill are taribleWink...I only put long slings on my pieces to prevent drag and to stop the cams from walking out of place.

Thanks ALL!!


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