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NEW SQUEEZE JOB ON ROGER ROCK
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tradmanclimbs


Sep 11, 2007, 9:01 AM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599

NEW SQUEEZE JOB ON ROGER ROCK
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There is a new climb on Rojers Rock between little finger and Screaming Meanie. The first pitch is a total squeeze job with the first bolt basicly a retro bolt added to the start of Screaming Meani. The second bolt is in that vauge territory of shold i clip the bolt or go for the crack of Screaming Meani? I had doubble ropes so I ended up doing both. The second pitch of this climb was good, mostly trad and only one bolt. Third pitch was OK.Thankfully they did not put any bolts within reach of the wonderfull 90ft runout of pitch 3 of Screaming Meanie. The first pitch of this climb does significantly alter the way that the first pitch of Screaming Meanie climbs. honestly I don't really mind the Retro bolted start but the second bolt is pretty annoying. additionaly they hacked it up with zinc plated bolts instead of stainless. Zink gets funky pretty fast in wet conditions like you see at lake George. Some of the washers allready rusting up with the mixed metal reaction to the stainless hangers......


sbaclimber


Sep 11, 2007, 5:26 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
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Re: [tradmanclimbs] NEW SQUEEZE JOB ON ROGER ROCK [In reply to]
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tradmanclimbs wrote:
additionaly they hacked it up with zinc plated bolts instead of stainless. Zink gets funky pretty fast in wet conditions like you see at lake George. Some of the washers allready rusting up with the mixed metal reaction to the stainless hangers......
Hmmm, sounds like there was some good potential there for a decent new route. Too bad it sounds like they squeezed the start, and used inferior hardware. It isn't the precedent had been set or anything. If memory serves, the previously bolted lines had been done with good hardware.
I have seen what happens when people start spewing on the internet about it though, and hope that doesn't happen here.
It would be awesome if someone could find out who bolted it, explain why the gear (and start?) is not acceptable, and offer to help replace it with good hardware. Sounds like only the bolts themselvest need to be replaced, which should only cost about $1/bolt.
(I know someone is going to start screaming about using Rawl 5-piecers here, but that is the rebolters call)


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Sep 11, 2007, 6:25 PM)


tradmanclimbs


Sep 12, 2007, 9:10 AM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
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Re: [sbaclimber] NEW SQUEEZE JOB ON ROGER ROCK [In reply to]
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The Zinc will be fine for the next 10 or 15 years but why do it half assed when you could do it right the first time? I just bought a box of 50 Powers stainless steel Power wedges for $45.00 with the shipping. The real issue is helping them realize that on slab climbing the lines between climbs are pretty vauge and if you place a bolt 10 ft right of annother climb you totaly change the way that climb climbs. Leader is smeared to a coupple of dime edges and looking up 30ft to their next bolt but then there is this shiny new hanger just a wee bit to the right. The whole commitment factor of the slab climbing is ruined.


sbaclimber


Sep 12, 2007, 2:42 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
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Re: [tradmanclimbs] NEW SQUEEZE JOB ON ROGER ROCK [In reply to]
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tradmanclimbs wrote:
The real issue is helping them realize that on slab climbing the lines between climbs are pretty vauge and if you place a bolt 10 ft right of annother climb you totaly change the way that climb climbs.
Yes, now you just need to find out who "them" is....


stymingersfink


Sep 14, 2007, 5:11 PM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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Re: [sbaclimber] NEW SQUEEZE JOB ON ROGER ROCK [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
tradmanclimbs wrote:
The real issue is helping them realize that on slab climbing the lines between climbs are pretty vauge and if you place a bolt 10 ft right of annother climb you totaly change the way that climb climbs.
Yes, now you just need to find out who "them" is....
...so you know who to return the hangers to.

Fuck the Squeeze Play.


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