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climbingaggie03
Sep 12, 2007, 2:36 AM
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So I was going through my rack today and looking at my ATC guide and I thought I sure do love that little guy. I've had him for a year and climbed hundreds of thousands of feet with him and I've only had one complaint. One time I was on a single pitch climb that was a full rope length so I was belaying my second from the top. My second couldn't finish the climb and wanted me to lower her to the ground. I had placed all my skinny slings on the climb cause I didn't really think I'd need to lower her, so I managed to just pull on the tab with one hand while maintaining a break hand with the other hand and lower her to the ground. So I learned to keep a sling around just in case.
Tonight however I thought, what if I tie a small loop of 5-6mm cord through the tab so that I can clip any biner into it and not have to mess with threading a sling through the tab. The one downside to this that I can think of is that having a loop on my ATC provides me with one more thing to snag stuff with when it's on my harness and when it's on the anchor. I may try it this weekend and see how it goes, but I was wondering if anybody has tried this, or if they know of another solution to this "problem"
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moose_droppings
Sep 12, 2007, 3:02 AM
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climbingaggie03 wrote: So I was going through my rack today and looking at my ATC guide and I thought I sure do love that little guy. I've had him for a year and climbed hundreds of thousands of feet with him and I've only had one complaint. One time I was on a single pitch climb that was a full rope length so I was belaying my second from the top. My second couldn't finish the climb and wanted me to lower her to the ground. I had placed all my skinny slings on the climb cause I didn't really think I'd need to lower her, so I managed to just pull on the tab with one hand while maintaining a break hand with the other hand and lower her to the ground. So I learned to keep a sling around just in case. Tonight however I thought, what if I tie a small loop of 5-6mm cord through the tab so that I can clip any biner into it and not have to mess with threading a sling through the tab. The one downside to this that I can think of is that having a loop on my ATC provides me with one more thing to snag stuff with when it's on my harness and when it's on the anchor. I may try it this weekend and see how it goes, but I was wondering if anybody has tried this, or if they know of another solution to this "problem"
I tied a small loop of 11/16th's webbing by 2" (small hero loop) on mine as soon as I got it for that exact reason. I even asked BD if they'd considered making that hole large enough to except a biner. They replied that another hole biner size would make it confusing for some to rig correctly (probably true). Mine works fine like this. Makes it easy to clip a biner on there with any old size sling instead of carrying one specifically for that.
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jeff_m
Sep 12, 2007, 3:30 AM
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I originally tried a small, thick keyring loop---just enough to get a finger through to unweight, but it didn't work as well as I had hoped. For the last year I've used a piece of 4mm girthed through the hole and then daisied. Good to grip on and I can clip a biner if need be. (Also good for an emergency prussik or autolock backup if things really go wrong.)
And no, it hasn't gotten in the way or caught on anything to date, either.
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JAB
Sep 12, 2007, 6:40 AM
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One emergency option could be to use your shoe laces.
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jmvc
Sep 12, 2007, 4:25 PM
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Hell, I would hate to do that.. Better than nothing I suppose...
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coastal_climber
Sep 12, 2007, 5:33 PM
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JAB wrote: One emergency option could be to use your shoe laces.
Never post again.
>Cam
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caughtinside
Sep 12, 2007, 5:35 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: JAB wrote: One emergency option could be to use your shoe laces. Never post again. >Cam
oh, the irony.
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chossmonkey
Sep 12, 2007, 5:38 PM
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Thread a small nut (BD 4 or 5) through the hole and clip a biner into the nut.
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zuegma
Sep 12, 2007, 6:38 PM
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no ned to modify. just carry a nut tool with you and you can use it as a lever if you put it in the other slot of the guide...works well as long as you aren't bringing up 2 seconds. also it is a piece of gear that i always have on me. works everytime.
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JAB
Sep 13, 2007, 7:40 AM
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coastal_climber wrote: JAB wrote: One emergency option could be to use your shoe laces. Never post again. >Cam
Thanks for your insightful post. 
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sknowlton
Sep 13, 2007, 1:47 PM
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Bingo.
Beat me to it
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vegastradguy
Sep 13, 2007, 2:17 PM
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my only worry would be whether the rope would suck it in when rappelling or catching a fall.
the new reverso's release hole will take a petzl spirit (not sure about other carabiners- definitely not anything bigger)....maybe BD will modify theirs in the future to take a specific carabiner.
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easton
Sep 13, 2007, 3:02 PM
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I understand BD's concern over putting another clip point in, but what if they mirrored the existing attachment point on the other side so the Guide could be flipped over and still be full strength. This would give a spot big enough to use a biner to pull the release, and anyone 'confused' by the set-up would still be safe.
Not a mod we can make, but would this work? I'm not looking at my Guide at the moment.
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vegastradguy
Sep 13, 2007, 7:16 PM
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easton wrote: I understand BD's concern over putting another clip point in, but what if they mirrored the existing attachment point on the other side so the Guide could be flipped over and still be full strength. This would give a spot big enough to use a biner to pull the release, and anyone 'confused' by the set-up would still be safe. Not a mod we can make, but would this work? I'm not looking at my Guide at the moment.
probably not without making the guide incredibly bulky and heavy, not to mention awkward if you hung it off the other side.....
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microbarn
Sep 13, 2007, 7:41 PM
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caughtinside wrote: coastal_climber wrote: JAB wrote: One emergency option could be to use your shoe laces. Never post again. >Cam oh, the irony.
Agreed. There have been so many threads that would be better with out you, Cam.
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kovacs69
Sep 13, 2007, 7:46 PM
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climbingaggie03 wrote: So I was going through my rack today and looking at my ATC guide and I thought I sure do love that little guy. I've had him for a year and climbed hundreds of thousands of feet with him and I've only had one complaint. One time I was on a single pitch climb that was a full rope length so I was belaying my second from the top. My second couldn't finish the climb and wanted me to lower her to the ground. I had placed all my skinny slings on the climb cause I didn't really think I'd need to lower her, so I managed to just pull on the tab with one hand while maintaining a break hand with the other hand and lower her to the ground. So I learned to keep a sling around just in case. Tonight however I thought, what if I tie a small loop of 5-6mm cord through the tab so that I can clip any biner into it and not have to mess with threading a sling through the tab. The one downside to this that I can think of is that having a loop on my ATC provides me with one more thing to snag stuff with when it's on my harness and when it's on the anchor. I may try it this weekend and see how it goes, but I was wondering if anybody has tried this, or if they know of another solution to this "problem"
Ok, so I am having one of those slow brain days. Can someone post a picture so I can see what you are talking about or maybe we can get majid to do a diagram.
JB
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kovacs69
Sep 14, 2007, 2:54 PM
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jeff_m wrote: vegastradguy wrote: my only worry would be whether the rope would suck it in when rappelling or catching a fall. That's why the girthed/daisy is more convenient (it can be easily removed with one hand if need be; no untying like a loop); I think a loop would be more problematic or at least cause some annoyance. If you don't rap in "high friction" mode (teeth to the ground) there's no worry, the cord will be away from the slots. Frankly, I've never rapped in HF mode, 'cuz with a legloop friction block (or other) backup it's almost impossible to move...but I'm sure you know that. Y uno photo para kovacs69 con lineas del Majid: [image]http://www.citycg.com/atcguide.jpg[/image] Yeah, the title of the thread is misleading. These aren't modifications.
Thanks...now I see.
JB
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stymingersfink
Sep 15, 2007, 12:42 AM
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jeff_m wrote: vegastradguy wrote: my only worry would be whether the rope would suck it in when rappelling or catching a fall. That's why the girthed/daisy is more convenient (it can be easily removed with one hand if need be; no untying like a loop); I think a loop would be more problematic or at least cause some annoyance. If you don't rap in "high friction" mode (teeth to the ground) there's no worry, the cord will be away from the slots. Frankly, I've never rapped in HF mode, 'cuz with a legloop friction block (or other) backup it's almost impossible to move...but I'm sure you know that. Y uno photo para kovacs69 con lineas del Majid: [image]http://www.citycg.com/atcguide.jpg[/image] Yeah, the title of the thread is misleading. These aren't modifications.
funny thing is, both of these biners are made by, you guessed it, BD!
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Points
Sep 15, 2007, 12:48 AM
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I've never used an ATC Guide but I can tell you what I've discovered works when I had to lower my second off my reverso when it was in autolock. Keep them in lock off with your brake hand and then just clip the other biner into your harness, remove the one that you had clipped in (which make it autolock) and then you're back to normal. It can take a little practice and you have to pay attention so as not to remove the wrong biner, but in a pinch, it works.
edited for my lack of articulation skills
(This post was edited by Points on Sep 15, 2007, 12:49 AM)
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stymingersfink
Sep 15, 2007, 12:52 AM
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Points wrote: I've never used an ATC Guide but I can tell you what I've discovered works when I had to lower my second off my reverso when it was in autolock. Keep them in lock off with your brake hand and then just clip the other biner into your harness, remove the one that you had clipped in (which make it autolock) and then you're back to normal. It can take a little practice and you have to pay attention so as not to remove the wrong biner, but in a pinch, it works. edited for my lack of articulation skills 
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Points
Sep 15, 2007, 12:56 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: Points wrote: I've never used an ATC Guide but I can tell you what I've discovered works when I had to lower my second off my reverso when it was in autolock. Keep them in lock off with your brake hand and then just clip the other biner into your harness, remove the one that you had clipped in (which make it autolock) and then you're back to normal. It can take a little practice and you have to pay attention so as not to remove the wrong biner, but in a pinch, it works. edited for my lack of articulation skills yeah, that's just sooo easy to do when you've positioned your master point above waist level!
Yeah, didn't really think about that, I had the rope through the master point and then the reverso on my belay loop. It's not the best, but it works in a pinch when you're trying to get down quick.
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vegastradguy
Sep 15, 2007, 1:04 AM
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Points wrote: I've never used an ATC Guide but I can tell you what I've discovered works when I had to lower my second off my reverso when it was in autolock. Keep them in lock off with your brake hand and then just clip the other biner into your harness, remove the one that you had clipped in (which make it autolock) and then you're back to normal. It can take a little practice and you have to pay attention so as not to remove the wrong biner, but in a pinch, it works. edited for my lack of articulation skills
this is assuming your second can unweight the rope- and, if they can, this is probably your best option.
if they cant, however, you'll need to read the instructions on the Reverso (and ATC-Guide) to learn how to do it without killing your second. incidentally, if you've never done it before and havent read up on it, its actually quite easy to lose control of the system. i'd even recommend practicing it in the gym before attempting it in the real world.
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