And are we talking about these: http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1190058054546

When you are lowered your body weight applies friction to the rings, think of it like a saw, though not very sharp. Repeating this time and time again the rings will wear and will need to be replaced more often then if everyone just raps off and pulls the rope though with no body weight.

ok, so are there any other options? I know toprope puts more wear on a rope, but if other people are climbing who want to follow, any other way to do it? And as far as rapeling, do I need any other gear (rappel rings, figure 8? if I have ATCs). It seems like you could just be lowered off the top anchors without having to rappel, or is this the same deal where it wears your rope and the anchors out?

About these. and attack away if this is wrong. BUT I learned that if just slingshot TR, whoever is cleaning, go up and take down the anchor setup (cord/sling whatever), then get lowered off through the rings. The way i have done this goes something like this.

Reach the anchors, if you can stand comfortably, ask for some slack, pull a bight through the rap ring and tie a fig8 on a bight and clip that fig 8 into your belay loop with a locker. (if you can't stand, or it's a little shaky clip a runner/daisy chain/whatever you choose into the anchor).

Untie your original knot (because you are clipped in on the fig8 on a bight) then either retie or trust the fig8 clipped to your belay loop.

Clean the anchor and get lowered off. With the rope running through the rap rings.

So,how bad is that for the rap rings?


that's just for single pitch redirected TRs, we always rap down on multi pitch, or true TR.

That's why a good anchor will use easy to replace quicklinks (maillon rapide) instead of rings...

dude...Whoa...you don't know that you can rap with an ATC....

you need more experience....DO NOT DO THIS WITHOUT INSTRUCTION on actual rock....

This is just a bad story waiting to happen.

stay safe

no, I knew you could rap with an ATC, just didnt know if you needed to do anything else up top to set it up or if a figure 8 was prefered (which aparantly its not). I also just didnt know how to actually rap until last night, didnt realize it was as easy as tying in both ends of the strand through the ATC slots just like a belay and lowering yourself down.

Saw some people practicing it last night at the gym, they would climb 3/4 of the wall on TR and then grab another set of ropes on a different anchor and rap down. I also noticed they were tying a smaller section of rope in some configuration above/below the ATC that acted like a sheath for their top hand to hold onto. Is this some sort of auto-braking system just in case they freak out/are knocked out/whatever and release their brake hand? anyone have a little guide on exactly what was going on there?

I'm going to assume it was something like this

Get yourself an experienced mentor.....soon.

d.

Or you could, you know, be responsible and not TR or lower off the anchors. Quicklinks are bound to disappear on a whole lot of routes out there.

you know I don't think that fighting on the internet will get anyone anywhere, but I would like to point out that in my explanation/question I said take down the anchor (cord/sling/etc) and then run the rope through the rap rings. just to clarify.


so cam, it is or is not kosher to use those rap rings to run a bight through and lower off? Everyone else? No? I understand the wear and tear issue, but I just am not clear on how big of an issue it is.