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baigot
Sep 26, 2007, 3:50 PM
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Hi, iŽm going to europe in november, iŽll stay there until january.
Can you guys advice me what places to visit in Europe to climb some moderates (5.10-5.11b) (sport, not going with a rack)?.
IŽll stay in Amsterdam for a while visiting my wife, but iŽm going to visit almost any place in Europe.
iŽll sure go to Siurana Žcause a friend of mine lives in Barcelona.
Shoot some places anywhere in Europe you think i should go, and post why i should go.
Thanks
Vicente
Argentina
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pheekin
Sep 26, 2007, 4:32 PM
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sardinia and mallorca. beautiful beaches and more climbing than you could imagine.
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03-05-21%20Rockclimbing%201.jpg
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jgivens
Sep 26, 2007, 5:10 PM
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CROATIA! I cant stress how awesome Croatia is for climbing. More rock that you could ever climb, and still very 'wild' as places go. It would be more adventuresome than western european locals, and less crowds, but may take more effort to get around (though buses seem to run everywhere). And the bluest water you've ever seen!
Check out Paklenica Nat'l Park, Omis (very climber friendly and easy access to routes, and by the beach) and Hvar.
If want a more Alpine setting, you cant go wrong with Chamonix...
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overlord
Sep 27, 2007, 11:23 AM
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croatias premium crag paklenica is usually not climbable at that time. while you might imagine the temps being right, you cannot imagine burja (bora), the wind that blows form mainland to the seas. it can easily reach 100km/h+ and locals dont even call it windy until it is at least 40km/h or so. it can (and does) blow ppl off the wall and even off the trails on top.
if youd like some southern europe, seek for crags that are sheltered from wind. paklenica is a canyon, so the wind really reings supereme there. what you are looking for is the edge of karst that is not a canyon, but a cliff, like slovenias osp, misja pec and crni kal, plus some new crag that is being developed in croatia at this time.
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exalien
Sep 27, 2007, 5:24 PM
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Advice about climbing in Europe?
Don't call Biographie "Realization".
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slablizard
Sep 27, 2007, 6:14 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
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Buoux (France)
Verdon (France)
Finale (Italy)
Arco (Italy)
baigot wrote: Hi, iŽm going to europe in november, iŽll stay there until january. Can you guys advice me what places to visit in Europe to climb some moderates (5.10-5.11b) (sport, not going with a rack)?. IŽll stay in Amsterdam for a while visiting my wife, but iŽm going to visit almost any place in Europe. iŽll sure go to Siurana Žcause a friend of mine lives in Barcelona. Shoot some places anywhere in Europe you think i should go, and post why i should go. Thanks Vicente Argentina |
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exalien
Sep 27, 2007, 8:57 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2007
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In reply to: Buoux (France) Verdon (France) Finale (Italy) Arco (Italy)
Why do people always suggest the most trampled, polished and has-been crags whenever someone needs advice about climbing on the old continent?
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baigot
Sep 27, 2007, 10:17 PM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2003
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exalien, why donŽt suggest some places instead of making critics...
tanx, more data please! jeje.
Vic.
PD: DonŽt worry, for me is Biographie...
(This post was edited by baigot on Sep 27, 2007, 10:21 PM)
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shrimp
Sep 28, 2007, 9:02 AM
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You're right, Baigot.... it just seems that most american climbers' knowledge of western europeen climbing areas is limited to a few spots that were hot in the 80's and have since become slimy, overworn gymnasiums that have very little interest other than from a historical perspective. So here are a few spots you might find interesting.
FRANCE:
Claret- although a bit used, has generally good weather all year round except the summer which is too hot.
Taurac- A vast number of routes, some old, some new, a half hour from Claret
Le Boffi (Millau, weather permitting...exceptional rock!!)
Gorge de la Jonte (Millau, weather perm.)
I cannot recommend le Gorge du Tarn as it's been run over by tickmarks, shit at the base of the climbs, bad weather in November and far too many climbers.
Vingrau- one and half hours from Barcelone, driest weather in France.
Tautavel- near Vingrau
SPAIN:
Montgrony(sp?) in the foothills of the Spanish Pyrennees, maybe 2 1/2 hours from Barc. Unique!!
Monsant Massif (Siurana)
Los Mallos de Riglos (bring disposable diapers!!)
Rodellar (a bit too popular for my taste)
Montserrat (Barcelone's local crag)
If you need any more info, just email me..
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overlord
Sep 28, 2007, 9:06 AM
Post #10 of 18
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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if you are going to france, check out les calanques(sp).
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shrimp
Sep 28, 2007, 11:00 AM
Post #11 of 18
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Registered: Sep 27, 2007
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I forgot to add that recent trends in France and Spain encourage the use of long ropes. An 80 meter rope is pretty much standard today as is a rack of 14 long quick draws for France and up to 18 for Spain. A big toothbrush for cleaning off tickmarks and the chalk (assuming you use it) you've left on the holds is not only considered polite, but does wonders for international relations. Have fun!!
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pro_alien
Sep 28, 2007, 2:20 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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In Switzerland, if the weather permits, try Ticino , e.g. Ponte Brolla etc. Single and multipitch. If you really get lucky sunny crags in Jura could also work.
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gwendolyn
Sep 29, 2007, 3:05 PM
Post #13 of 18
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Registered: Apr 10, 2007
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I'm going to second Croatia. I've never climbed there but I saw some excellent opportunities for climbing. I've heard there's great climbing in Spain but the times I've been there it's been so hot - I couldn't take the heat in Seville but I have heard that Majorca is excellent for climbing.
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charlet_poser
Sep 29, 2007, 4:46 PM
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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 62
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In France, near Grenoble, on the Vercors plateau is a cliff called "Presles". It faces south so it is climbable year-round. Single and multi-pitch (up to 9 or 10 pitches) on awesome limestone from 5.fun to 5.13.
There is some basic info in the database on rc.com, but the best guidebook is called, "Presles, 6a max". It lays out all the best climbs with 5.10- maximum obligatory moves (you can pull through cruxes on harder routes). Not a very crowded place (I only shared 1 route with another party over 4 classics that I climbed there). PM me if you want more info.
Happy travels and climbing!
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gritstoner
Sep 30, 2007, 7:06 AM
Post #15 of 18
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Registered: Sep 1, 2003
Posts: 529
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handegg in switzerland and ardeche gorge in france.
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jmvc
Oct 1, 2007, 3:57 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 647
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If your going to barcelona check out la fuixarda... Loads of sport climbin bang in the middle of the city..
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rocdaug
Oct 1, 2007, 4:03 PM
Post #17 of 18
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
Posts: 220
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I'll be in spain in april 2008.
how easy is it meet other climbing folk there?
I'll be traveling light so I'm just going to bring personal gear. if I have to I'd buy a rope and draws but I'd rather not haul all that gear around. what's the community like? friendly? or no?
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jmvc
Oct 2, 2007, 1:48 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2007
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The place is plagued with climbing folk if you go to late in the afternoon ;) The climbing sometimes goes on right through the night..
I find the people around there nice enough.. You can leave gear around without it being nicked.. Most people there just boulder (there is a 20-30m long tunnel to climb along). I myself go there about once or twice a week, on those days I could lend you kit, I'm sure that other people around there would do the same, when I started (only about half a year ago) people lent me the whole kit minus shoes..
In this video you can see the size of the tunnel (it's got holds all over the place)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ER4gwTpp0FM
And in this one you can see a little bit of the outside rock..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmClHZVsLJE
(None of the vids are mine)
Hope thats useful!
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