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Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario)
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adam3


Sep 29, 2007, 8:45 AM
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Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario)
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Looking for nice/any sport routes in the milton area. Done Nemo and Bottle glass.. couldnt find any at rattlesnake.. Thinking of checking out Kelso.. Anyone know of some nice routes?


(This post was edited by adam3 on Sep 29, 2007, 8:46 AM)


onceahardman


Sep 29, 2007, 5:22 PM
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Re: [adam3] Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario) [In reply to]
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if you have "done nemo"...youve done a lot. there are a few things at kelso, but you'll need to go north to stay busy. metcalfe rock, devils glen, LIONS HEAD!!!, etc goergian bay/bruce peninsula...better rock the farther you go.


adam3


Sep 30, 2007, 7:29 AM
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Re: [onceahardman] Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario) [In reply to]
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K ill change my wording on that. I have Been to Nemo.. haha I haven't DONE everything at nemo.. but Im on the hunt for nice somewhat local routes


andypro


Sep 30, 2007, 9:01 AM
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Re: [adam3] Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario) [In reply to]
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Dont quote me on this because I could be wrong, but as far as I know there are only two bolted sport routes at Kelso. Maybe three, but I'm reptty sure it's jsut two. Right next to each other.

They're short, mid grade (like 11/12ish) not horrible but not spectacular, pretty much straight up vertical face climbs. I wanna say 5 bolts, but again I could be wrong...it's been a while.

If you're going to make a trip to Kelso just for those, bring some trad gear or stuff to set up a toprope (at least 60M for the center section to TR) and hit up some of the non bolted climbs. There are some ncie and fun ones.

Beyond that, definitely head to lions head. That's your best bet if you're in search of some really nice sport routes.

--Andy P


chossmonkey


Oct 1, 2007, 4:23 AM
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Re: [andypro] Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario) [In reply to]
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For what its worth TRing is no longer allowed at Kelso.


(This post was edited by chossmonkey on Oct 2, 2007, 7:38 PM)


adam3


Oct 2, 2007, 2:30 PM
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Re: [chossmonkey] Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario) [In reply to]
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so yah.. Kelso has 3 bolted routes. All of them have very rusted bolts and I didn't bother trying them.


steinmethod


Oct 2, 2007, 7:12 PM
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Re: [adam3] Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario) [In reply to]
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adam3 wrote:
so yah.. Kelso has 3 bolted routes. All of them have very rusted bolts and I didn't bother trying them.

There are more than 3 bolted routes at Kelso. The routes i climbed, the bolts where in good condition. no signs of rust.


adam3


Oct 3, 2007, 11:49 AM
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Re: [steinmethod] Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario) [In reply to]
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well where might they be?


guccipiggy


Oct 3, 2007, 12:19 PM
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Re: [adam3] Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario) [In reply to]
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East side - close to the gully
Petrol Head
Nitrous Oxide
High Octane

West side - just around left of the sign
For Wimps Only

The bolts are not rusted at all.
And Choss is right about the top rope ban.


steinmethod


Oct 3, 2007, 8:55 PM
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Re: [adam3] Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario) [In reply to]
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Correct there is not Top Roping at Kelso. Make sure when you are going there not to say you are "climbing".

Pick up a guide book for climbing in Ontario (forgot the name of the book). It has all the routes listed in there and the ratings for Kelso and many other places. maybe someone else knows the name of the book.

Good luck with the climbing!


kevinwaldock


Oct 3, 2007, 9:47 PM
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Re: [steinmethod] Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario) [In reply to]
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The name of the Ontario sport climbing book is Ontario Sport Climbing, can get it at MEC. covers in detail most if not all sport climbs from here to tobermory. And yes there is a top roping ban at kelso a few idiots top roping there could jepordize access to this cliff. so keep yer tr at rattlesnake.


yay_chris


Oct 8, 2007, 6:31 PM
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Re: [guccipiggy] Kelso Crag and Area? (ontario) [In reply to]
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For Wimps Only (5.10c) is a great climb. I just did it today and the bolts were fine.

However, it does require nuts or cams until you get to the first bolt.


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