|
homasta
Oct 7, 2007, 11:42 PM
Post #1 of 15
(750 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2007
Posts: 13
|
I am going to be in the Asheville area soon, any suggestions for routes. I want to do some moderate multipitch trad climbs. I've done the great arch at Stone and love it. Nothing harder than 5.9 thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
mr8615
Oct 7, 2007, 11:49 PM
Post #2 of 15
(746 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 4, 2004
Posts: 1032
|
Go climb the nose on Looking Glass, or a few of the moderates at cereal buttress. Best of luck.
|
|
|
|
|
homasta
Oct 7, 2007, 11:59 PM
Post #3 of 15
(742 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2007
Posts: 13
|
I was looking at the nose, I hear its an awesome climb. I also hear its super crowded, any strategies on how to beat the crowds?
|
|
|
|
|
thej
Oct 8, 2007, 1:43 AM
Post #4 of 15
(718 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2006
Posts: 29
|
besides the obvious get there early, go on the weekdays etc skip it if its crowded and get on Sundial Crack. If you can get in line and not get stuck behind a slow party it moves pretty well. Bolted belays and a different rap station line.
also check out The South End. Classic Moderates for WNC. Shorter 2 pitches on average (some can be ran out as one, and others need 3 to get to the belay bolts), no bolted belays there though.
I hear that "right up" or "left up" maybe both have a really high first piece and low crux, lots of stories of people decking on them.
|
|
|
|
|
camplicated
Oct 8, 2007, 2:19 AM
Post #5 of 15
(712 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2007
Posts: 30
|
I was there in mid-October when it was bit chilly (50s) and no one was around. Plus, the fall colors in Pisgah were incredible when seen from the climb. I accidentally did Sensemelia Sunset and it is to this day my scariest climb ever. And at that point I was solid in the mid 10s on trad. So just know what kind of climbing to expect (no handholds whatsoever) before going to the nose.
I highly recommend Linville Gorge. Anything you get on will be fun and not terribly runout. Just beware of falcon nesting season at Linville or Looking Glass. It closes up many of the good routes.
|
|
|
|
|
chill41
Oct 8, 2007, 5:26 PM
Post #6 of 15
(679 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 7, 2005
Posts: 88
|
Here's the routes I'd reccomend at each of 4 WNC hotspots:
LG: Nose, Sundial, Rat's Ass, Second Coming, Zodiac Crack
Linville: Mummy, Daddy, most anything on Table Rock
Rumbling Bald: anything on Cereal Wall
Ship Rock (near Boone): Boardwalk, Edge of a Dream
Out of all those I think Linville would be the most enjoyable for beginners...I was climbing there with my dad when I was 12 
|
|
|
|
|
thorne
Deleted
Oct 8, 2007, 5:55 PM
Post #7 of 15
(671 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
For Linville, I'd add Shortoff:
Construction Job (5.9) - short, pumpy crux
Maginot Line (5.7) - bottom 1/2 stays in the shade
Little Corner (5.6) - stays in the shade
Dopey Duck (5.9) - bring your A game
Paradise Alley (5.8+) - hard 1st pitch - has an alternate 1st pitch(5.7)
On Table Rock, my two favorites, Second Stanza and True Grit/White Lightin', get early sun and can get quite cold and windy once the sun goes around the corner.
If you're a solid 5.8 leader, climbing the Mummy, the Daddy and the Prow is very doable. not too challenging, but still fun.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Oct 8, 2007, 6:15 PM
Post #8 of 15
(663 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
thorne wrote: Dopey Duck (5.9) - bring your A game
Aye. The first pitch is mediocre, but the second is, IMO, one of the best of its grade anywhere. Steep, juggy, pumpy, exposed... and well protected textbook, letterbox TCU slots. I can't recommend this enough.
|
|
|
|
|
sthcrag510
Oct 8, 2007, 7:11 PM
Post #9 of 15
(644 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 31, 2006
Posts: 254
|
In reply to: On Table Rock, my two favorites, Second Stanza and True Grit/White Lightin', get early sun and can get quite cold and windy once the sun goes around the corner.
very true. Second stanza is a great route. First pitch is kinda overgrown though.
I would recommend cereal butress at rumbling bald some of my favorite climbs are there...
|
|
|
|
|
gmasterb
Oct 8, 2007, 7:31 PM
Post #10 of 15
(631 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2005
Posts: 12
|
I believe that Doc Baine had said about Dopey Duck, " If that thing was anymore 5.9, it would be 5.11"
|
|
|
|
|
stabla
Oct 8, 2007, 8:12 PM
Post #11 of 15
(612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2005
Posts: 139
|
chill41 wrote: Here's the routes I'd reccomend at each of 4 WNC hotspots: LG: Nose, Sundial, Rat's Ass, Second Coming, Zodiac Crack Linville: Mummy, Daddy, most anything on Table Rock Rumbling Bald: anything on Cereal Wall Ship Rock (near Boone): Boardwalk, Edge of a Dream Out of all those I think Linville would be the most enjoyable for beginners...I was climbing there with my dad when I was 12
peace
blake
|
|
|
|
|
saxfiend
Oct 8, 2007, 8:48 PM
Post #12 of 15
(584 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 31, 2004
Posts: 1208
|
If I had to choose a single spot in NC for great moderate multi-pitch climbing, it would be Looking Glass. There's a lot of variety, the camping is nice, the approach is not too strenuous and Brevard is close by if you want to go into town for supplies or a meal. Table Rock comes in second, mainly because it's more of a pain in the ass to get to (at least from Atlanta).
Some other great climbs at LG that haven't been mentioned: Gemini Crack, 5.8, First Return, 5.8 (South Side); Peregrine, 5.9 (Nose area).
Cool stuff at Table Rock includes Peek-a-Boo, 5.5; North Ridge, 5.5; and My Route, 5.6.
I don't really think of Rumbling Bald as a moderate multi-pitch destination. There's just not that many choices in the 5.9 and under range.
JL
|
|
|
|
|
stabla
Oct 8, 2007, 10:18 PM
Post #13 of 15
(561 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2005
Posts: 139
|
Yea I agree saxfiend. Now that i think about it Rumbling Bald only has a few multi-pitch trad lines at the grade he is looking at. Whereas Looking Glass has a plethora. I was just agreeing with the previous poster's list of specific/selected climbs. Table Rock as glorious as it is, is very difficult to get to and get around once you are there. Thanks for the correction!
peace
blake
|
|
|
|
|
arabinnite
Oct 8, 2007, 11:55 PM
Post #14 of 15
(539 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2007
Posts: 35
|
I was at Looking Glass a couple of years ago. Its a family area with lots of stuff to do. Nice easy climb. All the leaf peepers there now.
|
|
|
|
|
saxfiend
Oct 9, 2007, 2:42 AM
Post #15 of 15
(508 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 31, 2004
Posts: 1208
|
stabla wrote: Thanks for the correction! peace blake
JL
|
|
|
|
|
|
