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zacrobinson


Oct 8, 2007, 9:50 PM
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another small cam thread
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OK.

there are a million threads like this, but I am looking for perhaps more specific advice.

Let's say I want to climb something at or above my level and I need some (lots) of small cams for it. I have got a single set of C3's, 2 BD 0.3's amd 0.4's and a yellow metolius.

I need more blue metolius size. I want security. It is some hard layback moves and I don't want to have to fiddle with the TCU. I also like the knowledge that I have 4 lobes in on the rock instead of 3. They only make fat cams down to yellow. I like aliens until the heads fall off.

what is the verdict? Metolius 4CU? any other brands out there that can compete?
thanks,
zac


flint


Oct 8, 2007, 10:19 PM
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Re: [zacrobinson] another small cam thread [In reply to]
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zacrobinson wrote:
OK.

there are a million threads like this, but I am looking for perhaps more specific advice.

Let's say I want to climb something at or above my level and I need some (lots) of small cams for it. I have got a single set of C3's, 2 BD 0.3's amd 0.4's and a yellow metolius.

I need more blue metolius size. I want security. It is some hard layback moves and I don't want to have to fiddle with the TCU. I also like the knowledge that I have 4 lobes in on the rock instead of 3. They only make fat cams down to yellow. I like aliens until the heads fall off.

what is the verdict? Metolius 4CU? any other brands out there that can compete?
thanks,
zac

Buy some blue metolius cams. Cheaper then BD One of the most time tested and secure cams out there. What causes you to fiddle with the TCU. I fiddle much less with the U-stems than other cams. You want 4 lobes, metolius makes that little blue gem in blue.

Any more questions.

j-


Partner hosh


Oct 9, 2007, 12:26 AM
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Re: [zacrobinson] another small cam thread [In reply to]
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Try the blue WC Zero. It's approximately the same size, I think. (I don't have a blue TCU, but the Blue Zero is a hair smaller than the BD 0.3)

hope that helps. Now I wonder how many people will post nearly identical answers to the 2 that are already here...

hosh.


zacrobinson


Oct 9, 2007, 6:21 AM
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Re: [flint] another small cam thread [In reply to]
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I just feel like the TCU's need an extra bit of 'care' lets say, to get a placement I fell better about.
I guess that was the answer I expected, but I figured I would ask anyway.

thanks for not being jerks. Wink

zac


rsmillbern


Oct 9, 2007, 6:46 AM
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Re: [zacrobinson] another small cam thread [In reply to]
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zacrobinson wrote:
I just feel like the TCU's need an extra bit of 'care' lets say, to get a placement I fell better about.

zac

I agree that you should use a little more care with the 3 cam units (TCU's as well as C3's - I have both), but I would not shy away too much. They are both solid.


Partner j_ung


Oct 9, 2007, 6:49 AM
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Metolius blue Power Cam; it's just a TCU with a fourth lobe.


zacrobinson


Oct 9, 2007, 7:03 AM
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I am thinking Indian Creek, and I know I climb better the less gear I place. So in the soft sandstone, from a layback, I want 4 lobes.


vegastradguy


Oct 9, 2007, 7:30 AM
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buy the Metolius power cam- 4 lobes.

http://metoliusclimbing.com/ultralight_powercam.htm


rsmillbern


Oct 9, 2007, 7:40 AM
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I'll buy that. I have not climbed at Indian Creek (yet!). Distributing the force.
I like the C4's a little better though and they are on sale right now at REI (they don't go quite as small, but close)

C4 - .3 $46.99
.3 = 13.8 - 23.4mm / 8kN / 71g

Metolious power cam $56.50
Size 1 / 12.5-19.5mm / 8.16kN / 54g / blue


flint


Oct 9, 2007, 7:02 PM
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Push hard and climb fast, I like where your head is. And those Metolius cams are ohhh sooo light.


tallmark515


Oct 9, 2007, 9:17 PM
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Re: [hosh] another small cam thread [In reply to]
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hosh wrote:
Try the blue WC Zero. It's approximately the same size, I think. (I don't have a blue TCU, but the Blue Zero is a hair smaller than the BD 0.3)

hope that helps. Now I wonder how many people will post nearly identical answers to the 2 that are already here...

hosh.

Have to disagree with Hosh on this one, I've owned several sizes of the WC Zero's and I am not a fan. I can only think of two times that I really felt confident with their placements. I'm not saying that they won't hold, but they never give me the same sort of secure feeling that I got from a BD or a Metolius.

-mark


dudemanbu


Oct 10, 2007, 4:13 PM
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Re: [tallmark515] another small cam thread [In reply to]
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tallmark515 wrote:
hosh wrote:
Try the blue WC Zero. It's approximately the same size, I think. (I don't have a blue TCU, but the Blue Zero is a hair smaller than the BD 0.3)

hope that helps. Now I wonder how many people will post nearly identical answers to the 2 that are already here...

hosh.
Have to disagree with Hosh on this one, I've owned several sizes of the WC Zero's and I am not a fan. I can only think of two times that I really felt confident with their placements. I'm not saying that they won't hold, but they never give me the same sort of secure feeling that I got from a BD or a Metolius.
-mark


That sounds like it's more a problem with you than a problem with the cam. I've fallen onto all three of my zeros (yellow, red, blue) and they've held just fine.


(This post was edited by dudemanbu on Oct 11, 2007, 3:27 PM)


tallnik


Oct 11, 2007, 9:25 AM
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Feel vs. real world.

I've fallen plenty onto my zeros. Love em, they can handle the abuse...

Nik


caughtinside


Oct 11, 2007, 9:44 AM
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Well, I'm going to put forth a less popular opinion and tell you to get some aliens. heh heh.

Get new ones and pull test them or get some used ones from 04 or earlier off eBay.

I'm not a fan of C3s or TCUs. Zeros are ok.


zuegma


Oct 11, 2007, 10:16 AM
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C4 - .3 $46.99
.3 = 13.8 - 23.4mm / 8kN / 71g

Metolious power cam $56.50
Size 1 / 12.5-19.5mm / 8.16kN / 54g / blue
if i recall BD is definitely more expensive then metolious, unless of course it is on sale, but i like both cams and usually place them both whenever.


rsmillbern


Oct 11, 2007, 2:01 PM
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Re: [zuegma] another small cam thread [In reply to]
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zuegma wrote:

C4 - .3 $46.99
.3 = 13.8 - 23.4mm / 8kN / 71g

Metolious power cam $56.50
Size 1 / 12.5-19.5mm / 8.16kN / 54g / blue
if i recall BD is definitely more expensive then metolious, unless of course it is on sale, but i like both cams and usually place them both whenever.
onsale REI until 10/14


Depr


Oct 11, 2007, 2:18 PM
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used all of the above ( red c3, green alien, blue tcu, blue WC zero). I have taken 20+ on the green alien and blue tcu on granite.

My assumption would be that a 4 lobed cam would be a better idea in sandstone to distribute the impact force over a larger surface area.

Have yet to fall on the blue WC zero but it is an awesome piece (it places really well and I feel confident when above it).

I agree with Hosh.

-Depr


gunkiemike


Oct 11, 2007, 4:33 PM
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I seem to have the opposite problem - too many fingertip-size cams. Last count: 2 Metolius yellow, one each blue and purple, 2 green Aliens, a Z6 (red) Zero and 2 Z5 (blue) Zeros. I NEVER need all them. So PM me if you want to buy my spare Z5 for $35. It's in really good shape, having been placed maybe half a dozen times and never fallen on. (photos available) Mike


chadcummings


Oct 11, 2007, 6:33 PM
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Re: [gunkiemike] another small cam thread [In reply to]
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well i'd say aliens, because whats the number one rule? THE LEADER MUST NOT FALL. With all jokes aside, i love my aliens. I am also a fan of C4's but in the bigger sizes (.75- up) I'm not a fan of the power cams, however i love the TCU's up to red.
Now check out www.mgear.com. They were having deals on there old school .1's and .2's from black diamond. Also on there TCU's.

And just incase it gets brought up, If i don't climb and place it i don't talk about it.


(This post was edited by chadcummings on Oct 11, 2007, 6:35 PM)


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