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asiaclimber
Oct 10, 2007, 1:28 PM
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so currently i am livign in korea and just getting into trad climbing. I was wanting to know if there is any trad climbign within say 4hrs of tokyo? I will be heading there in may and just wondered if i should invest in a rack or continue climbing on that whitch my friends have?
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bill_in_tokyo
Oct 11, 2007, 5:26 AM
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Yes, there is trad within 4 hours of Tokyo. Not as much as you might wish, but some.
Four hours puts you in range of Ogawayama, a granite area with a spring through fall season, which has some good trad, as well as lots of bolted routes. (There's also another crag right in the same area which is predominantly cracks - can't think of the name right now.)
It also puts you in range of Jogasaki and the various smaller satellite areas down there, and also Yugawara/Makuiwa. These are andesite areas that are at their best during the winter months, although Yugawara is climbable year round. Both of these again have some good trad, as well as lots of bolts.
With regard to the desirability of buying a rack in general , that's hard to answer. The key issue is whether you have the necessary gear to climb what you want to climb, when you want to climb it. If the answer is "yes", then it doesn't much matter whether you own the gear or your friend does.
With that said, if you have the disposable income, buying a rack is nice for a variety of reasons. First, it means you're not dependent on anyone else - if you meet a new partner who doesn't have gear, you can climb anyway. Second, you can buy exactly the gear that you like. Third, toys are fun!
As for buying a rack specifically to climb around Tokyo, there are enough bolted routes that there's no real necessity. Draws will keep you climbing happily over here. But if you like trad and have the cash, there are at least a few places over here to place gear when you get the urge.
In any case, look me up when you get here. Assuming we can get out together (and don't hate each other), you'll be welcome to use my rack while you get a feel for the various areas.
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asiaclimber
Oct 11, 2007, 7:27 AM
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thanks for the info bill. I just got done buying sizes .25-4 with doubles on .75-3 a set of nuts, some more runners and of course some extra ovals. There is Some trad here in korea where i will be spending my time learning how to place gear better and hopfully by next may will be proficient enough to not feel as though i am just free soloing. If you are still in japan in may of next year I'll deffinetly hit you up for some climbing.
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ZackP
Oct 11, 2007, 12:51 PM
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Bill how long are you in japan? When i get the cash im either comming down there for some climbing or drinkin at rapungee( i know i misspelled that)
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bill_in_tokyo
Oct 12, 2007, 2:19 AM
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Hi Zack,
I've been here thirteen years this stretch and fifteen altogether. Provided my employers don't have a sudden change of heart, I'll probably be here for the foreseeable future (i.e., some additional years).
I'm somewhat old and totally married, so I don't do the Roppongi thing much anymore, but I guess I could still be tempted. As for climbing, for that I can definitely be tempted.
Let me know if you're coming in, and we'll see what we can set up.
- Bill
(This post was edited by bill_in_tokyo on Oct 12, 2007, 3:04 AM)
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ZackP
Oct 15, 2007, 1:49 PM
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Bill Tokyo is a long ass way from me. like i said im in misawa if ya still dont know where that is its in the Aomori prefecture. The majority of the time i do go south is either Sendai or Morioka. Both Cities have awsome gyms there and im currently in the middle of revamping the one we have on base. Just hope they shell out the cash for it.
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bill_in_tokyo
Oct 16, 2007, 5:09 AM
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Yeah, I get that you're not close by. I was just responding to your comment that you were hoping to get down here one of these days. No worries if there's a delay - I'm not going anyplace; but it's always cool to climb with new people, so if you do get the chance to head down here, let me know.
In the meantime, good luck on upgrading your base gym (and getting reimbursed for it!).
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ZackP
Oct 16, 2007, 9:25 AM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2007
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you missunderstand. the base MWR fund is paying for it. i just have to design and build it. Talk about a win win situation. If they wanted me to pay for it, I would tell em where they can stick it. winter is on the way now so im looking at swapping out the harness for my board Cant wait.!!!!!!!!!!!!
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