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Alpine07
Oct 7, 2007, 8:06 PM
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I am looking for a pair of versatile ice tools, that I can do ice, mixed, or alpine climbs with. And also, go leashless or leashed. I was just wondering what tools people use for all around climbing other than the obvious BD Cobra and Petzl Quark. Has anyone used the Camp Awax?
Thanks,
Matt
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 7, 2007, 9:09 PM
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Quarks,New Cobras or Vipers. Heard good things about Awax but never used them....
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mccombs07
Oct 7, 2007, 9:38 PM
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Grivel Alp Wing or Light wing
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gunkiemike
Oct 7, 2007, 10:59 PM
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If you get up to the Catskills this winter, give me a shout - I'll let you test drive my Awax's.
They are a good tool. Preferable to the BD tools, but that's just my opinion (I don't like the way BD picks get stuck and you have to choke up on the shaft of the tool and lift it up/out). Never used them for anything resembling alpine, but they have a very slender shaft and minimal grip so I imagine they would plunge easily. They are also an exceptionally light tool. Proof that you don't need a heavy tool to stick to vertical water ice. IMO for working in tight quarters and at odd angles, a light tool and a wrist flick is less tiring than a scratch-your-back swing a la BD tools. YMMV
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Alpine07
Oct 8, 2007, 3:16 AM
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yah man, if it doesnt get cold enough here i may just have to head north. I heard that the half grip thing that the awax has can cause your hand to slide off to the side, just wondering if this actually is a problem or if its just some moron writing a bad review cause he doesnt like the way it looks 
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 8, 2007, 2:35 PM
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snow climbing should be your last concern!! The real issue is climbing the hard stuff. Grip rests and knuckle gaurds are a must for real climbing INMOP the snow climbing stuff can be done w/ viper fangs and quarks a lot easier than that grade 5 pillar can be climbed without decent grips. Personaly I carry a smooth shafted third tool for snow climbing and for finishing pitches When my BD picks break I finished a few 4+ pitches w/ the third tool last year so I got a reminder of life before knuckle guards/good grips. It sucks! YMMV
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rocknice2
Oct 8, 2007, 2:58 PM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: When my BD picks break I finished a few 4+ pitches w/ the third tool last year
A few times in a year. Holy shit are the picks really that bad in northeastern ice.
I just ordered the new BD cobras
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 8, 2007, 3:35 PM
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YMMV The cascade pick breaks pretty easy though INMOP. I broke 3 last winter in super cold conditions, none in the warm 2005 season, a few in 2004 Cold. I climb a lot and I swing with a vengance when gripped. I have however conversed with quite a few other climbers with simeler experiences...
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the_climber
Oct 9, 2007, 5:51 PM
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BD picks are the most commonly broken picks around here.
Grivel, CM Quark picks, DMM and Simond picks are stronger IMHO.
Grivel has about the strongest picks I've ever used.
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xtremst80
Oct 9, 2007, 6:04 PM
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Grivel Alp Wing works really good.
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hosh
Oct 10, 2007, 5:15 AM
Post #12 of 18
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Are brands and picks interchangable? For example, if you've got a BD tool, can you put Grivel picks on it? Or if you're climbing on a Petzl tool, can you use BD picks on it? Just wondering, as I don't have ice tools...
hosh.
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ryanb
Oct 10, 2007, 6:46 AM
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hosh wrote: Are brands and picks interchangable? For example, if you've got a BD tool, can you put Grivel picks on it? Or if you're climbing on a Petzl tool, can you use BD picks on it? Just wondering, as I don't have ice tools... hosh.
No, or at least not without modification. different brands use different bolt layouts.
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wanderlustmd
Oct 10, 2007, 12:20 PM
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Too bad they can't figure out a way to standardize this stuff...like cam color coding and size range.
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hosh
Oct 10, 2007, 4:24 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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Man, that sucks about the bolt layout. Would be nice, eh?
hosh.
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stymingersfink
Oct 11, 2007, 10:08 PM
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rocknice2 wrote: tradmanclimbs wrote: When my BD picks break I finished a few 4+ pitches w/ the third tool last year A few times in a year. Holy shit are the picks really that bad in northeastern ice. I just ordered the new BD cobras
Maybe the ice is more forgiving around these parts, maybe the technique is less rough, I dunno, but I never hear guys 'round these parts complaining of broken picks. When I worked in the shop, the most common reason to replace picks was because they'd been sharpened beyond their useful lifespan.
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the_climber
Oct 11, 2007, 10:17 PM
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sty, up here in the Canadian Rockies BD picks break at least 5 to 1 for any other brand.
Is it bad technique? Cold Temps? I dunno, but jsut as many are using other tools as BD up here. What I can say is that I've seen more than a few BD picks break on cold days just from average placing in ice Pick... goes in whole, comes out an inch shorter type of thing. That and the guys who used to work at MEC joke about how they used to have a shipping box to put the broken BD picks people brought in and a postage envelope for all the other brands.
I'll stick with my Grivel's and DMM's thank you.
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stymingersfink
Oct 12, 2007, 1:27 AM
Post #18 of 18
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the_climber wrote: sty, up here in the Canadian Rockies BD picks break at least 5 to 1 for any other brand. Is it bad technique? Cold Temps? I dunno, but jsut as many are using other tools as BD up here. What I can say is that I've seen more than a few BD picks break on cold days just from average placing in ice Pick... goes in whole, comes out an inch shorter type of thing. That and the guys who used to work at MEC joke about how they used to have a shipping box to put the broken BD picks people brought in and a postage envelope for all the other brands. I'll stick with my Grivel's and DMM's thank you.
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