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monkeychild
Oct 11, 2007, 10:18 PM
Post #26 of 33
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Registered: Mar 11, 2007
Posts: 125
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Lyhlia -
I had the same trouble a few years ago and here are some things that helped me break into the 10s:
*climb 9s really really well- meaning good (quiet) footwork, breathing, good form..... stuff like that
*I assume by 9s, you're including 9+, because that is a different grade, which comes between 9 and 10. So if you're trying to jump a whole number grade, that may be the issue.
*get on as many 10s as possible. You may just need to go outside your comfort zone a little - don't be afraid to get on a bunch of 10s and fail... WHen I was getting into 10s, someone told me to not get on anything below a 10 when I was in the gym... maybe you should do the same thing. You'll start getting the needed technique and strength this way.
*does your gym write the route setter on the routes? If so, you could look at some of the 9s you like, whether that be because of reaches, types of holds.... whatever caters to your specific strengths - and try to find a 10 set by the same person.
*most important, just climb and climb and climb and.. you get the idea. Don't rush it - the more you climb the better you'll get, but don't make a mistake and forget to enjoy the 9s, the 9+s, and then once you get there, have fun with 10s. 5.10 is a fun grade.
That's all folks... sorry if most of that's been said already, didn't read every post before mine.
-monkeychild
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 12, 2007, 4:48 PM
Post #27 of 33
(2012 views)
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
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Step 1: work on your footwork
Step 2: work on your footwork
Step 3: go grab a snack
Step 4: work on your footwork some more.
Forget about improving strength. That will come. Watch better climbers. When climbing, look for your next foothold...quiety and under control move it to exactly where you want it on the hold....Do not take your eyes off your foot until it is weighted. When moving your feet make sure your body is in a balanced position and your arms are straight or bent ALL the way, never half way.
If you want to be a better climber, than work on technique first, stength second.
Josh
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shaylily
Oct 12, 2007, 4:57 PM
Post #28 of 33
(2011 views)
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Registered: Apr 15, 2005
Posts: 42
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You are getting great advice. Here is my two cents worth. Don't be in too much of a rush as your joints, tendons and the like need to adjust. Otherwise, you are asking for injury. The second point is to talk to the route setter at your gym and let him know that you would like a route or two that will help you transition to 10.
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Johnny_Fang
Oct 12, 2007, 5:29 PM
Post #29 of 33
(2002 views)
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Registered: Nov 19, 2006
Posts: 289
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I don't think anyone mentioned this, so I'll throw it out there. Learn how to rest on the wall. You know, locking off one arm, dangling the other, trading them out. That's one of the main differences between very beginning climbers and those starting to do better. It teaches you to climb smarter, not harder, to evaluate a good rest position and break a longer route up into shorter problems. Do a search on resting positions.
The other main thing, which has been mentioned, is to climb below your level but focus on smoooooooth movements, smooooth flow. Whenever I hit a training plateu I stop trying to push through that grade, back off a few grades, and climb as smooth as possible for a few WEEKS. I find when I get back to pushing myself, I can do it much better.
Oh yeah, and have as much fun as possible. If you're getting irritated, slow down and try to climb pretty. I'd rather see someone climb a 9 in a really smooth, beautiful manner than see some number pusher flail up a 12.
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Jedipunisher69.
Oct 17, 2007, 4:36 PM
Post #30 of 33
(1903 views)
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Registered: Jan 28, 2007
Posts: 9
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Get stronger.
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shimanilami
Oct 17, 2007, 5:39 PM
Post #31 of 33
(1877 views)
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
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IMO, the most valuable qualities a climber can possess are patience and persistence. This is especially true of new climbers.
It is easy to think that climbing 5.10 should come naturally, especially if you've watched strong climbers on 5.11, 5.12 or beyond. They make it look so easy. But such climbers have developed an aresenal of subtle mental, technical, and physical skills that are, quite frankly, impossible to acquire except by climbing a lot. I think you are quite typical in finding 5.10 a difficult grade to break into, because this is about as far as our innate, flat-lander abilities will take most of us. You are now ready to start truly developing climbing-specific skills, which t takes a long time.
If it's any consolation, I started climbing six years ago. At the time, my idea of exercise was a 3 hour bike ride in the morning, and 3 hours of intense martial arts training at night. I'm a pretty good athlete and sports have always come easily to me, so I figured that I should be able to climb 5.11 by the end of my first year. Well, six years later and only now do I feel competent enough to go outside and hop on a typical 5.11. I figure I'll spend years at the 5.11 level before I'll be thinking seriously about being a "5.12 climber".
At any rate, 5.10 is certainly achievable, but it will not come overnight in a sudden flash of brilliance. It will take time. Patience, persistence and perserverance will get you there.
Welcome to the club.
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bent_gate
Oct 17, 2007, 5:55 PM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2620
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Unless I missed it, I can't believe no one has suggested that you take a class.
Have you taken any classes? Do you know how to:
Turn, flag, Inside Flag, Outside Flag, Twist-Lock and Drop Knee, Heel Hook, Toe Hook, Heel Toe Cam, and more...
If you are unfamiliar with any or more of this, that is what is holding you back, Technique. So consider a class.
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fearlessclimber
Oct 17, 2007, 6:09 PM
Post #33 of 33
(1864 views)
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Registered: Oct 27, 2005
Posts: 474
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Practice on your mental training, no matter how much you do it you can always improve your climbing abilities using mental training. Theres a really good book out there its called
Mental Training for Peak performance by Steven Ungerlieder
I read it and used the stuff in there they talked about in my climbing helped a lot. It kinda like imagery for climbing, like visuallizing every move before you get off the ground.
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