Oct 14, 2007, 12:13 AM
Post #3 of 25
(4304 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
Re: [phillygoat] What is the best nut/stopper out there?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
in order of use and usefulness:
BD Stoppers- everyone's first set. Good general use stopper, nothing special- usually gets the job done fine.
DMM/HB Offsets- if you climb where there are pin scars, these are mandatory. I prefer the alloy versions (now made by DMM- available in Spring '08) over the bronze (available at the YMS), but I'm not an aid climber. I find these stoppers indispensable in Squamish, JTree, and Yosemite- the best sizes for a free climber are the 3 biggest bronze offsets (4,5,6), and the three smallest alloys (7,8,9)
Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts- I reviewed these for Metolius and have come to absolutely love them. I prefer the straight taper on them instead of the curved taper that BD uses- they just seem to work better as a general use stopper.
(This post was edited by vegastradguy on Oct 14, 2007, 12:14 AM)
Oct 14, 2007, 1:31 AM
Post #5 of 25
(4255 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
Re: [vegastradguy] What is the best nut/stopper out there?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
vegastradguy wrote:
in order of use and usefulness:
BD Stoppers- everyone's first set. Good general use stopper, nothing special- usually gets the job done fine.
DMM/HB Offsets- if you climb where there are pin scars, these are mandatory. I prefer the alloy versions (now made by DMM- available in Spring '08) over the bronze (available at the YMS), but I'm not an aid climber. I find these stoppers indispensable in Squamish, JTree, and Yosemite- the best sizes for a free climber are the 3 biggest bronze offsets (4,5,6), and the three smallest alloys (7,8,9)
Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts- I reviewed these for Metolius and have come to absolutely love them. I prefer the straight taper on them instead of the curved taper that BD uses- they just seem to work better as a general use stopper.
ABC's stoppers are the same as BD's, but they are $30 cheaper and a different color scheme. I agree. They are a good standard set.
BD Stoppers- everyone's first set. Good general use stopper, nothing special- usually gets the job done fine.
DMM/HB Offsets- if you climb where there are pin scars, these are mandatory. I prefer the alloy versions (now made by DMM- available in Spring '08) over the bronze (available at the YMS), but I'm not an aid climber. I find these stoppers indispensable in Squamish, JTree, and Yosemite- the best sizes for a free climber are the 3 biggest bronze offsets (4,5,6), and the three smallest alloys (7,8,9)
Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts- I reviewed these for Metolius and have come to absolutely love them. I prefer the straight taper on them instead of the curved taper that BD uses- they just seem to work better as a general use stopper.
ABC's stoppers are the same as BD's, but they are $30 cheaper and a different color scheme. I agree. They are a good standard set.
Another vote for the ABC Huevos (same as BD stoppers)
I have a set of DMM Walnuts, and a set of WC Rocks. I like the WC Rocks, they fit well in super narrow cracks. The Wallnuts are ok, but I use the WC more.
Oct 14, 2007, 3:20 AM
Post #9 of 25
(4176 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 29, 2006
Posts: 194
Re: [vegastradguy] What is the best nut/stopper out there?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
vegastradguy wrote:
Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts- I reviewed these for Metolius and have come to absolutely love them. I prefer the straight taper on them instead of the curved taper that BD uses- they just seem to work better as a general use stopper.
I recently picked up a set of metolius curve nuts, and I haven't had a good time with them thus far. First, the small sizes don't go as small as a #4 ABC, and the straight taper makes the small curve nuts less useful (I can't get them to set as well on the irregularities in a small seam). The bigger issue, though, is that for some reason they love to get stuck on small crystals/irregularities, but not in a secure way. Just toying the nuts into place often gets the back edge of the nut to hang up on insignificant rough patches. I think it's the straight taper and the fact that I've only used ABC/BD nuts in the past, but these metolius buggers aren't doing well for me so far.
vegastradguy, did you experience any similar frustrations with curve nuts?
Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts- I reviewed these for Metolius and have come to absolutely love them. I prefer the straight taper on them instead of the curved taper that BD uses- they just seem to work better as a general use stopper.
I recently picked up a set of metolius curve nuts, and I haven't had a good time with them thus far. First, the small sizes don't go as small as a #4 ABC, and the straight taper makes the small curve nuts less useful (I can't get them to set as well on the irregularities in a small seam). The bigger issue, though, is that for some reason they love to get stuck on small crystals/irregularities, but not in a secure way. Just toying the nuts into place often gets the back edge of the nut to hang up on insignificant rough patches. I think it's the straight taper and the fact that I've only used ABC/BD nuts in the past, but these metolius buggers aren't doing well for me so far.
vegastradguy, did you experience any similar frustrations with curve nuts?
I was reading reviews on THIS very website that say the M. Curve are the ones to have and many people prefer them to BD stoppers but have slightly more trouble removing them than BDs, but that's good right?
I wanted everyone's advice because I'm building a rack and I want to buy the right tool for the job.
(This post was edited by swylie on Oct 14, 2007, 5:56 AM)
Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts- I reviewed these for Metolius and have come to absolutely love them. I prefer the straight taper on them instead of the curved taper that BD uses- they just seem to work better as a general use stopper.
I recently picked up a set of metolius curve nuts, and I haven't had a good time with them thus far. First, the small sizes don't go as small as a #4 ABC, and the straight taper makes the small curve nuts less useful (I can't get them to set as well on the irregularities in a small seam). The bigger issue, though, is that for some reason they love to get stuck on small crystals/irregularities, but not in a secure way. Just toying the nuts into place often gets the back edge of the nut to hang up on insignificant rough patches. I think it's the straight taper and the fact that I've only used ABC/BD nuts in the past, but these metolius buggers aren't doing well for me so far.
vegastradguy, did you experience any similar frustrations with curve nuts?
I was reading reviews on THIS very website that say the M. Curve are the ones to have and many people prefer them to BD stoppers but have slightly more trouble removing them than BDs, but that's good right?
I wanted everyone's advice because I'm building a rack and I want to buy the right tool for the job.
I think it depends on the rock in your area. I do most of my nut placing on granite routes and have found that I do not like the Met. Curve nuts (though I do like their curve hexes) for granite cracks.
I have spoken with other climbers in the LCC (or passing through) who agree with their (curve nuts) poor setting qualities in the local cracks, however several have also sworn by them for climbing at Smith. Go figure.
Try 'em before ya buy 'em... if ya can. Otherwise, I'd only recommend my BD Stoppers and the Met. Curve Hexes (sizes 1-6) for most routes in this area. YMMV.
The nice thin about stoppers is... they're extremely cheap when compared to cams. You'll bail off them and not feel bad, you'll booty some and feel o.k. You'll build a variety of them over time and get a feel for what you like most often. Gear swaps are a great place to pick up random sets, as they're easy to inspect for mechanical integrity.
Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts- I reviewed these for Metolius and have come to absolutely love them. I prefer the straight taper on them instead of the curved taper that BD uses- they just seem to work better as a general use stopper.
I recently picked up a set of metolius curve nuts, and I haven't had a good time with them thus far. First, the small sizes don't go as small as a #4 ABC, and the straight taper makes the small curve nuts less useful (I can't get them to set as well on the irregularities in a small seam). The bigger issue, though, is that for some reason they love to get stuck on small crystals/irregularities, but not in a secure way. Just toying the nuts into place often gets the back edge of the nut to hang up on insignificant rough patches. I think it's the straight taper and the fact that I've only used ABC/BD nuts in the past, but these metolius buggers aren't doing well for me so far.
vegastradguy, did you experience any similar frustrations with curve nuts?
when i first tried the curve nuts years ago, i had similar problems. i think it had to do with the fact that when i was looking for a stopper placement, i only had experience with the BD's, and thus was accounting for the curve of that stopper. so, when i would try a Metolius nut in that spot....it could be a pain in the ass.
since then, i've become a big fan of HB's and since they have a similar style to the Metolius- that is, a straight taper, i've become more accustomed to looking for places where they will fit.
so, i'd say it certainly depends somewhat on your local rock- but also on your experience overall with stoppers. an eye for a BD placement may net you a crappy Metolius placement and vice versa.
best advice: get familiar with as many different stopper types as you can and you'll be glad you did in the long run. i'm perfectly happy using Metolius, HB, BD, WC, and DMM- and own some of each.
Some folks will be fine with BDs - they are easy to replace when they get lost. Others will appreciate the ease of use (and removal) of the straight-sided nuts; newbs will not get them hopelessly stuck as often as curved pieces. IMO an experienced passive gear climber will find Metolius curve nuts to be uniquely advantageous. YMMV.
Ancient british MOACs. They seem to fit the cracks (1 inch to 1.75inch) on all kinds of rock, especially the mid grades. Also have some spuds (mini wedges, 0.4 inch to 0.75 inch) that sling on 6 mm so when you need to prussic they are on your harness as a multi use item. (have also unthreaded them to use the sligs for ab. loops in the alps when some swine had nicked the insit gear) I have had all these nuts since 1967 (rethreaded frequently) and when climbing with young hotshots, with all the modern gear, usually end up loaning them out. They are very usefull collectors items, but if you have a metal manufacturing company you could make copies, if you could get me to let go of them.
Yup, that was my first and still my primary set. I also have a set ot trangos though and find that they hold when the BD/ ABC won't but don't come in the smaller sizes.
Oct 17, 2007, 1:16 AM
Post #22 of 25
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 119
Re: [vegastradguy] What is the best nut/stopper out there?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
Also, with the Metolius nuts you're getting about twice as much surface contact (in an ideal placement) as you would with a BD stopper. There's an even larger discrepancy when compared with the Wild Country nuts. This is the easiest way to explain how you might get a Metolius nut stuck more easily. That being said, I've used both nuts extensively now, and it seems to me that the longitudinal curve in the Metolius nuts really allows for some improbable placements. I wish I had taken a picture, but my fat ass has been able to aid on a Curve Nut that looked like it might have been velcroed in place. I mean, there was really little reason for this thing to have held my 200 pound frame. Don't listen to anecdotal reasoning though--everyone is so biased. Instead, make the different designs make sense to you. Then, ask yourself if you agree with the design principles. In my opinion, the Metolius design seems to be the most versatile. They don't handle aggressively flared cracks as well as the HBs, which I also think are great, but they give you a lot more options than the BDs. But again, you should inform yourself instead of letting a Joker like myself run off at the mouth.
Oct 17, 2007, 11:22 AM
Post #23 of 25
(3565 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
Re: [justinboening] What is the best nut/stopper out there?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
The best Nut Stopper? I am going to have to go with a swift front kick here. Simple and efective. Somtime though if you are closer you can slip an uppercut in there which really does the trick
MOAC's are one of the best stoppers ever. the few chances i've had to climb on them, i've absolutely loved them- they work amazingly well despite their looks.
Oct 17, 2007, 7:18 PM
Post #25 of 25
(3449 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2006
Posts: 221
Re: [vegastradguy] What is the best nut/stopper out there?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
I have three, 2 mark ones with rounded corners, 1 mark two which originally had square corners but they have now worn round. 2 were removed from crags wherethey had benn left for dead. The most notable was in a route at Stoney Middleton, Aurora(5.9) where the nut had to be lifted about two feet to remove it. Patience and enthusiasm for different routes has enabled me to gain all kinds of good gear (and some rubbish) from where it has been abandonned. I only clean left gear to keep the route tidy (honest). I never remove fixed gear.
17 /
38%
