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oscarlation
Oct 17, 2007, 1:34 AM
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What are the essential pieces of gear for building a good trad rack?
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coastal_climber
Oct 17, 2007, 1:38 AM
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Do a search of this site before asking.
>Cam
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moose_droppings
Oct 17, 2007, 1:39 AM
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oscarlation wrote: What are the essential pieces of gear for building a good trad rack?
A big fat wallet.
Start with some passive pro, nuts, what evers common to where you climb. Hang around where you want to climb and see what their using.
Do a search, this topic has been done a 1000 times.
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JohnCook
Oct 17, 2007, 1:46 AM
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Watch what others in your climbing area use. Second several leaders, find which work well for them and can be cleaned by you. Perhaps persuade climbing freinda to let you lead on their gear? and see what you like.
I started my rack by going to popular cliffs midweek and either toproping or rappelling to retrieve gear left be the weekend guys. My not work no but it saved me a lot of cash.
If you've toproped you'll know what you need for belays.
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NSFW
Oct 17, 2007, 1:59 AM
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These guys are never helpful. Let me point you in the right direction:
Get a full set of Tricams and doubles in the upper numbers.
Get at least one set of slung hexes, though might as well get two, they're cheap. That's the backbone of your rack right there.
A set of brass stoppers. Definately brass, brass is the bombz.
Pick up a pile of decent biners you find on sale and like 30 feet of 2" webbing. You can use the skinnier stuff, but the 2" will last forever. Make a bunch of draws.
Couple lockers, a stitch plate, and a nut tool.
Bam, go climb.
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salamanizer
Oct 17, 2007, 2:09 AM
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NSFW wrote: These guys are never helpful. Let me point you in the right direction: Get a full set of Tricams and doubles in the upper numbers. Get at least one set of slung hexes, though might as well get two, they're cheap. That's the backbone of your rack right there. A set of brass stoppers. Definately brass, brass is the bombz. Pick up a pile of decent biners you find on sale and like 30 feet of 2" webbing. You can use the skinnier stuff, but the 2" will last forever. Make a bunch of draws. Couple lockers, a stitch plate, and a nut tool. Bam, go climb.
You're Fv#king kidding.... right?
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JohnCook
Oct 17, 2007, 2:14 AM
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Obviously have a lot more cash to throw around than I do. Took me years to build my extensive rack and other gear. Maybe you have rich parents or a job that pays good money and lets you have time off.
Have just decided to do the lottery.
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throb
Oct 17, 2007, 3:29 AM
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JohnCook wrote: Obviously have a lot more cash to throw around than I do. Took me years to build my extensive rack and other gear. Maybe you have rich parents or a job that pays good money and lets you have time off. Have just decided to do the lottery.
People who just climb must not realize how cheap a sport it really is. You can buy a top notch trad rack for under $1200 and a lot lower depending on what you buy and if you have karabs and stuff from sport climbing
A kayak retails for about $1000, a dry top is $350, a paddle is $225-375, a skirt is $140, a helmet is $100, a pfd is $140, pile is $150, Spray pants are $75, Booties are $60, Poggies are $25, car racks are $175, throw ropes is $50, etc. That's about $2500 and most boaters have more than one boat! And, don't get me started about bikes and cameras.
I have lots of toys, make $32,000 per year, and have accumulated $300,000 in investments on that salary. It all depends on how you manage and choose to spend your money.
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patrickm
Oct 17, 2007, 7:05 AM
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In reply to: People who just climb must not realize how cheap a sport it really is. You can buy a top notch trad rack for under $1200 and a lot lower depending on what you buy and if you have karabs and stuff from sport climbing A kayak retails for about $1000, a dry top is $350, a paddle is $225-375, a skirt is $140, a helmet is $100, a pfd is $140, pile is $150, Spray pants are $75, Booties are $60, Poggies are $25, car racks are $175, throw ropes is $50, etc. That's about $2500 and most boaters have more than one boat! And, don't get me started about bikes and cameras. I have lots of toys, make $32,000 per year, and have accumulated $300,000 in investments on that salary. It all depends on how you manage and choose to spend your money.
throb...agree on the ability to start a rack cheap and the economy when compared to other sports. But....
$32k in some parts of the states is barely paying rent/essentials unless you live in some man-brothel type setup. $32k-taxes-food-rent or mortgage-misc=broke. Quite a few people have trades/skills/desires that don't allow them the benefit of living in the the cheap seats. I guess it is a big trade off.
Agree fully on the comparative cost. Climbing has been a lot more gentle on the wallet than biking, beer or guitar. Not a problem, I have my rack for now. But next week I will look for money for more gear.
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flint
Oct 17, 2007, 7:14 AM
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NSFW wrote: These guys are never helpful. Let me point you in the right direction: Get a full set of Tricams and doubles in the upper numbers. Get at least one set of slung hexes, though might as well get two, they're cheap. That's the backbone of your rack right there. A set of brass stoppers. Definately brass, brass is the bombz. Pick up a pile of decent biners you find on sale and like 30 feet of 2" webbing. You can use the skinnier stuff, but the 2" will last forever. Make a bunch of draws. Couple lockers, a stitch plate, and a nut tool. Bam, go climb.
HAHAHAHA.... NSFW you forgot to put the full rack of Big Bro's, and to double up on the most useful sizes a valley giant or two complaments the rack nicely.
j-
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the_climber
Oct 17, 2007, 3:53 PM
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throb wrote: People who just climb must not realize how cheap a sport it really is.
You know I more or less agree with you...
Untill I factor in the money spent on Gas, and maintenance on my truck. 80+ drives to and from the mountains a year, typical drive 200-300km round trip... add in some 800km or so trips to the Bugaboos... thats a lot of gas. Granted I take my truck (4x4) where most wouldn't in the name of climbing sweet ice and rock... oh, ya I climb ice.. which is a whole nother ball game in the kick in the wallet... I reffer to my local gear shop owner as my "pusher".... Tools $300 each x2, screws 10 or so @ $50 a piece, screamers a few at $20 each, Poons $200, boots $500, Soft shell and pants $400-$600... and it keeps going.
Sport = cheap, and less adventure
Trap = less cheap but still afordable, and far more adventurous
Ice = well, when you combine the additions of Trad and Ice your wallet becomes... well you won't have one because you will be blowing off work and doing nothing but climbing all year.
I love Ice... I am poor. Please Donate to the feed "the_climber" food and beer fund.
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the_climber
Oct 17, 2007, 3:54 PM
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NSFW wrote: These guys are never helpful. Let me point you in the right direction: Get a full set of Tricams and doubles in the upper numbers. Get at least one set of slung hexes, though might as well get two, they're cheap. That's the backbone of your rack right there. A set of brass stoppers. Definately brass, brass is the bombz. Pick up a pile of decent biners you find on sale and like 30 feet of 2" webbing. You can use the skinnier stuff, but the 2" will last forever. Make a bunch of draws. Couple lockers, a stitch plate, and a nut tool. Bam, go climb.
What! NO Titons in that list are you crazy man!
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NSFW
Oct 17, 2007, 4:16 PM
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throb wrote: JohnCook wrote: Obviously have a lot more cash to throw around than I do. Took me years to build my extensive rack and other gear. Maybe you have rich parents or a job that pays good money and lets you have time off. Have just decided to do the lottery. People who just climb must not realize how cheap a sport it really is. You can buy a top notch trad rack for under $1200 and a lot lower depending on what you buy and if you have karabs and stuff from sport climbing A kayak retails for about $1000, a dry top is $350, a paddle is $225-375, a skirt is $140, a helmet is $100, a pfd is $140, pile is $150, Spray pants are $75, Booties are $60, Poggies are $25, car racks are $175, throw ropes is $50, etc. That's about $2500 and most boaters have more than one boat! And, don't get me started about bikes and cameras. I have lots of toys, make $32,000 per year, and have accumulated $300,000 in investments on that salary. It all depends on how you manage and choose to spend your money.
I agree with the general premise, although I don't know about getting a "top notch trad rack" for $1200. It's certainly cheaper than most hobbies. You don't even want to know how much it costs to get started in porn.
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NSFW
Oct 17, 2007, 4:18 PM
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flint wrote: NSFW wrote: These guys are never helpful. Let me point you in the right direction: Get a full set of Tricams and doubles in the upper numbers. Get at least one set of slung hexes, though might as well get two, they're cheap. That's the backbone of your rack right there. A set of brass stoppers. Definately brass, brass is the bombz. Pick up a pile of decent biners you find on sale and like 30 feet of 2" webbing. You can use the skinnier stuff, but the 2" will last forever. Make a bunch of draws. Couple lockers, a stitch plate, and a nut tool. Bam, go climb. HAHAHAHA.... NSFW you forgot to put the full rack of Big Bro's, and to double up on the most useful sizes a valley giant or two complaments the rack nicely. j-
Yeah I thought about putting that in there, but I didn't want to take it over the top. He wanted a starter rack anyway, the big bros can wait. Besides, those largest couple of sizes of tricams weigh enough already, the guys gotta still get off the ground somehow 
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shrug7
Oct 17, 2007, 4:55 PM
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Money and knowledge...
Use/borrow gear from people you know , before you buy anything and you'll learn what you like.
(This post was edited by shrug7 on Oct 17, 2007, 8:20 PM)
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flint
Oct 18, 2007, 2:17 AM
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NSFW wrote: flint wrote: NSFW wrote: These guys are never helpful. Let me point you in the right direction: Get a full set of Tricams and doubles in the upper numbers. Get at least one set of slung hexes, though might as well get two, they're cheap. That's the backbone of your rack right there. A set of brass stoppers. Definately brass, brass is the bombz. Pick up a pile of decent biners you find on sale and like 30 feet of 2" webbing. You can use the skinnier stuff, but the 2" will last forever. Make a bunch of draws. Couple lockers, a stitch plate, and a nut tool. Bam, go climb. HAHAHAHA.... NSFW you forgot to put the full rack of Big Bro's, and to double up on the most useful sizes a valley giant or two complaments the rack nicely. j- Yeah I thought about putting that in there, but I didn't want to take it over the top. He wanted a starter rack anyway, the big bros can wait. Besides, those largest couple of sizes of tricams weigh enough already, the guys gotta still get off the ground somehow
No problem, I think adding some hand and foot acenders and a nice 300' length of goldline to the list is perfect...
j-
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JohnCook
Oct 18, 2007, 2:30 AM
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Ignore most of this and follow the instruction to climb with someone who already has a full rack, even if only seconding. Taking gear out will teach you a lot about placement and even more about the gear as you will be in close contact with it. Then ask as many gear users as you can find when out climbing. Then try to lead on other peoples gear. Then make up your own mind. Then if its good you made the right decision if its bad you learned something.
And don't buy too much. Gear shops will recommend everything they think you can afford.
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omalavet
Oct 18, 2007, 3:48 AM
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all the cams you can get!!!!
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tytonic
Oct 18, 2007, 7:42 AM
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For some reason people like to remind you to do a search. Having searched this topic recently I can tell you the reason seachers don't work is because rather than giving a nice concise answer to the question being asked people begin debating other topics like the relative cost of climbing. If you want to do that, start your own therad. Now to the question at hand.
Because I've been mooching off my partner for years I'm just building my trad rack. Here's the protection I've chosen for my "starter rack"
5 - BD C4 Camalots (.5 - 3)
12 - BD Stoppers (2 - 13)
4 - CAMP tri-cams (.5 - 2)
5 - WC Rockcentrics (5 - 9)
The stoppers I already had from several years ago when I bought my sport climbing stuff, but I bought the rest of the rack for about $370. I know the #2 is for aid only, so I don't intend to use is because I don't do any aid climbing. I figure I'll work with this for a while and buy additionl gear as I need it.
(This post was edited by tytonic on Oct 18, 2007, 6:19 PM)
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flint
Oct 18, 2007, 8:37 AM
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tytonic wrote: For some reason people like to remind you to do a search. Having searched this topic recently I can tell you the reason seachers don't work is because rather than giving a nice consise answer to the question being asked people begin debating other topics like the relative cost of climbing. If you want to do that, start your own therad. Now to the question at hand. Because I've been mooching off my partner for years I'm just building my trad rack. Here's the protection I've chosen for my "starter rack" 5 - BD C4 Camalots (.5 - 3) 12 - BD Stoppers (2 - 13) 4 - CAMP tri-cams (.5 - 2) 5 - WC Rockcentrics (5 - 9) The stoppers I already had from several years ago when I bought my sport climbing stuff, but I bought the rest of the rack for about $370. I know the #@ is for aid only, so I don't intend to use is because I don't do any aid climbing. I figure I'll work with this for a while and buy additionl gear as I need it.
You fogot your 15 alpine draws... 2- 240cm slings... 9 racking biners (ovals)... extra 2 lockers... helmet... 6 lose biners... 2 purssic loops... nut tool... and some other stuff... so lets add another $250
Unless you want to use your sport draws and watch your $60 cams walk and umbrella into a crack, and then you have no nut tool to slide down your rope to your second who can't figure out how to pull the cam... so that $60 a pitch... I climb like 8 to 10 a day... that gets expensive...
just trying to help
j-
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tytonic
Oct 19, 2007, 4:10 AM
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I've got the draws, biners, nut tools, cordalettes, etc. I just didn't list them. Thanks for the help. I wouldn't want to loose my new gear.
(This post was edited by tytonic on Oct 19, 2007, 4:11 AM)
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fng
Oct 19, 2007, 7:09 PM
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You don't really need much more than nuts, tricams, and various slings with biners of course for most trad routes. Plus you will save weight from carrying all the crap you don't need. If you have extra money start in with some cams on the small size.
I am a gear whore and have about double of every type of trad gear one could want. I usually only use my, tricams, nuts, and cams along with slings. I only use my other gear on routes that I know will need an extra big or specific piece.
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onceahardman
Oct 19, 2007, 7:24 PM
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somebody made fun of slung hexes a while back...but i'll tell you what. i own two, old-style chouinard/black diamond hexes (size 7 and 9, i think), and i have found them to be among the most useful pieces on my rack. strong, stable, cheap, and light.
consider two full racks of wired stoppers. i like WC rocks, but have used most brands. i think rocks clean a bit easier than most.
somebody also said, when buying cams, start with smaller sizes (NOT tiny sizes!). i agree, the smaller sizes, in general, are more versatile
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donald949
Oct 20, 2007, 1:13 AM
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For Pro I climbed for years on one set of stoppers and hexes (Past stopper size), plus doubles of stoppers in the finger crack sizes. Of course if you climb somewhere specific, you may need odd pieces, but this would be good start.
See:
http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=G&Category_Code=BDP
They have a set of size 4-10 hexes for $100, and size 4-13 stoppers for $65. Plus the draws and biners mentioned above. I think you can do well, for way less than $1200, but if you got money to burn, then cams are great.
I also like the advise of following/seconding someone with gear.
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jestering
Nov 16, 2007, 3:38 PM
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throb wrote: People who just climb must not realize how cheap a sport it really is. You can buy a top notch trad rack for under $1200 and a lot lower depending on what you buy and if you have karabs and stuff from sport climbing A kayak retails for about $1000, a dry top is $350, a paddle is $225-375, a skirt is $140, a helmet is $100, a pfd is $140, pile is $150, Spray pants are $75, Booties are $60, Poggies are $25, car racks are $175, throw ropes is $50, etc. That's about $2500 and most boaters have more than one boat!
You bought all new paddling gear? Especially a new BOAT? Ha! Sucker.
Unless you're talking about a creek boat, in which case, good decision. I go cheap on everything else though.
But true, paddling makes climbing look like the financial equivalent of buying a couple of packs of Pokemon cards, which is why the current SE drought has made this a much cheaper season for me.
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