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Institutional shoe decisions
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Poll: Which shoe would you rather have for institutional use?
BUFO Unbreakable Original 3 / 20%
BUFO Unbreakable Ultra 2 / 13%
5.10 Summit 0 / 0%
La Sportiva Taka 1 / 7%
La Sportiva Cliff 4 / 27%
Scarpa Thunder 0 / 0%
Evolv Docon 5 / 33%
15 total votes
 

shoo


Oct 11, 2007, 10:02 AM
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Institutional shoe decisions
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I am buying a fleet of 20 shoes for my university mountaineering club. The shoes will be used for a variety of types of climbing, about evenly mixed between gym and outdoor use. I have bulk deals in waiting with all of the above listed companies. The price difference between them isn't a deal breaker, and all range from ($40-$50) + shipping.

What I'm looking for:
Durability (this is the big one)
Customer service
Replacement policy
Ease of labeling (size and club name, sharpie maybe?)
Comfort for beginners
Smell (they're going to get used a ton)
Performance (minor issue, as long as they aren't horrendous I don't really care)

Note: with the exception of the customer service part, I am interested in comments about the SHOES, not the companies that produce them. Please keep your personal company loyalties out of this, and stick to the shoes listed.


(This post was edited by shoo on Oct 11, 2007, 10:07 AM)


coastal_climber


Oct 11, 2007, 10:08 AM
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Re: [shoo] Which shoe would you rather have for institutional use? [In reply to]
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The Bufo Unbreakable Original is what we have at my gym. They have lasted for 4 years now, and we have just replaced some of them with the newer unbreakables.

I'll find out what they are labeled with, whatever it is, it lasts a long time. They are reasonably priced when you get them bulk.

>Cam


shoo


Oct 11, 2007, 11:37 AM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Which shoe would you rather have for institutional use? [In reply to]
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Any comparison between the new and the old unbreakables? I'm a little nervous about that new grey rubber.


(This post was edited by shoo on Oct 11, 2007, 12:04 PM)


coastal_climber


Oct 11, 2007, 12:42 PM
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Re: [shoo] Which shoe would you rather have for institutional use? [In reply to]
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The new rubber definitely seems to be little softer. They are also lacking the toe cap that the older ones had, which really increases durability.

>Cam


coastal_climber


Oct 11, 2007, 12:46 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Which shoe would you rather have for institutional use? [In reply to]
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I just checked their website, and we have a different "new" unbreakable. They are from Bufo, but ordered from a different retailer.

>Cam


anykineclimb


Oct 11, 2007, 1:19 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Which shoe would you rather have for institutional use? [In reply to]
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I'm pretty sure La Sportiva and 5.10 have rental shoes with the size printed on the heel ala bowling shoes.


shoo


Oct 11, 2007, 2:15 PM
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Re: [anykineclimb] Which shoe would you rather have for institutional use? [In reply to]
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They do, but I have to mark the shoes with the club name one way or another. Printed size marks are nice, though.


hotgemini


Oct 14, 2007, 3:03 AM
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Re: [anykineclimb] Which shoe would you rather have for institutional use? [In reply to]
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anykineclimb wrote:
I'm pretty sure La Sportiva and 5.10 have rental shoes with the size printed on the heel ala bowling shoes.

Indeed, La sportiva's model is imaginatively called teh "La Sportiva Rental", double thick rubber in all the wear areas, I'd expect 4 times the life out of them than say, cliff blues for comparison and the cliff blues last well.


8flood8


Oct 14, 2007, 7:14 AM
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Re: [shoo] Institutional shoe decisions [In reply to]
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i am the type of person who wears through shoes in about 6 months in the gym. Our gym walls are some type of concrete mix and that works just like sandstone on rubber.

the shoes i have seen last the longest in the gym are the evolve docons. They can be worn by a variety of foot shapes including morton's foot (2nd toe >= big toe). Also Evolv has very speedy shoe repair, because i know you are gonna wear some of those out.


justinboening


Oct 16, 2007, 6:35 PM
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Re: [shoo] Institutional shoe decisions [In reply to]
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The Evolvs are durable and comfortable for those not accustomed to the feel of proper rock shoes. We've had most of ours for three years and they look great. The only complaint, the god awful smell.


shoo


Oct 17, 2007, 8:34 AM
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Re: [hotgemini] Which shoe would you rather have for institutional use? [In reply to]
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According to the sales rep at La Sportiva, their rental line is the Taka, Cliff, and Kumo. I saw nothing about a "rental" shoe. Also, for those who voted cliff, any info on how long they last? They don't look particularly burly, but I could be wrong.


JohnCook


Oct 17, 2007, 11:41 AM
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Re: [shoo] Which shoe would you rather have for institutional use? [In reply to]
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The small in rental shoes can be cured by regular sprying with schol shoe odour remover or Febreze fabric deodorizer (cheap). My local wall in the UK uses febreze and so do I here in the US and it works


shoo


Oct 17, 2007, 12:53 PM
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Re: [justinboening] Institutional shoe decisions [In reply to]
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How are the Evolv Docons marked? It's pretty important that we have the name of the club and the size clearly labeled on the outside. The dark leather seems difficult to see if anything is written on them.


ja1484


Oct 17, 2007, 12:58 PM
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Re: [shoo] Institutional shoe decisions [In reply to]
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BUFO Unbreakables, no question. Joe Rental won't know or use the difference in performance between BUFOs and shoes that don't suck, and your biggest problem with renters in the gym is noobie toe dragging. Those massive toe rands make all the difference.

You're running a business, period. Get the stuff that gets you the most money for the least trouble.


8flood8


Oct 17, 2007, 4:26 PM
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Re: [shoo] Institutional shoe decisions [In reply to]
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you can simply use a white paint pen


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