|
mturner
Oct 22, 2007, 8:58 PM
Post #26 of 31
(716 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2005
Posts: 980
|
rockprodigy wrote: Height is only an advantage if you know how to use your FEET. Most people don't understand this, they just bitch about things they can't change - seems like a waste of energy to me. Better to spend that energy improving your footwork.
Agreed, but I changed the emphasis. I think people get so caught up with other people's beta that they fail to think of ways that will work for them and thus resort to making excuses.
Edit: PTFTW
(This post was edited by mturner on Oct 22, 2007, 8:59 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
climbsomething
Oct 22, 2007, 8:59 PM
Post #27 of 31
(713 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
|
mturner wrote: clausti wrote: there are a lot more things that are prohibitive for short climbers than for long climbers. Spoken like a true short climber. I think I'd be ok with this if it wasn't for the fact that I think you guys are making excuses for yourself at the expense of devaluing our sends.
I have been talked down to by 5'10+ men who seriously seemed offended that my scrunchy-tiny hands beta let me pick through something, or "cheat." It was much easier for them to say I cheated and used "off" beta and holds than to admit they just kinda suck.
|
|
|
|
|
delila99
Oct 22, 2007, 9:40 PM
Post #28 of 31
(700 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2007
Posts: 39
|
HOLY MOSES! I've got one crap day without access to a computer and all hell breaks loose 
Sheesh, all excellent comments and HELPFUL advice.. The short-person beta definitely doesn't work. This 5.10c crux was driving me nuts because my knee was knocking my teeth out  as I tried to replicate my partner's move in vain... I'd clip the bolt and just flail... Anyhoo, the point is I had to figure it out ON MY OWN...
Yes, as a girl, the upper body strength (what strength??  ) is a problem.. I'll have to work on that for sure if I want to even think about climbing overhangs...
The FEET - amen to that.. The feet are key...
And the biggest help perhaps was keeping my arse close to the rock
Still, the only thing that stymies me is figuring out how to balance myself in overhangs.. gravity does its work and I find myself just looking ridiculous... Overhangs will be the death of me!
I'll have to devise a way to develop strength.. my arms are friggin' puny.. Any advice?
Thanks to everyone for the informative responses...
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Oct 22, 2007, 11:24 PM
Post #29 of 31
(658 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
you, like most people getting into the 5.11 level, only think "strength" is the answer. the fact of the matter is, and you demonstrate it in your post, that you don't have good overhang technique. that doesn't mean that training and improving strength won't help, but it's really not the weak link in the chain that will cause enormous improvement. as always, i suggest reading the Self Coached Climber and reading Rockprodigy's article on training. The first will help you begin to understand your body better and it will give you the knowledge you need to better structure your time climbing so that you can develop the movement patterns needed to be successful. the second will help you develop the strength needed to send all your projects (if you're committed).
good luck!!!
|
|
|
|
|
generationfourth
Oct 23, 2007, 12:06 AM
Post #30 of 31
(652 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 50
|
regarding the short vs. tall thing...
I personally think that weight is the biggest factor as others have mentioned. Your height/reach is something that will never change; so there is no use in complaining about it. Work with what you have. The more you dwell on it, the more of a disadvantage it is to you.
For example, I'm 5'11" and am pretty damn scrawny. I have a good reach, but I used to always complain that I couldn't work my feet up high enough without my knees getting in the way/knocking my elbows, chest, etc. Finally I decided that if I settle for that I will always have crummy footwork when it comes to higher holds. So I started doing more stretching of my legs and stretch exercises. After my flexibility went up and after I stopped believing that I couldn't work my feet up high- I have much better footwork and knee control now.
ADAPT and work with what you've got. There is one guy at my gym who dwells on his height. And he's not even that short (~5'8"; average reach). I've watched him go from a pretty good boulderer to... well a ball of negativity. I'd work with him on some problems/routes and he'd complain that "the person who set this is probably tall." Now he simply will not try problems if it looks like it's reachy and hands them over to me. I was trying a dihedral route with lots of stemming, drop knees, etc. The route is all crimps but once you are in the dihedral you can palm them if you have good reach. He pretty much did not try the route and insisted I had a clear advantage and that to a short person it would be "too crimpy". Well the next day I watched a 5'3"-4" girl gaston into every single one of them and actually get much further and finish the route which I could not do.
|
|
|
|
|
victor999
Oct 23, 2007, 12:43 AM
Post #31 of 31
(641 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2004
Posts: 195
|
I'm 6' 5", 215 lbs. Obviously, being tall is advantageous (on many routes) and being 215 lbs. is not. What I've learned about my weaknesses is this: a) developing shoulder/arm strength is helping; b) developing core strength is helping; and c) focusing on my feet is helping. I therefore feel that my personal "improvement plan" has to take into account my physical attributes-- both the limitations, and the assets.
Another issue with being "bigger," that isn't often discussed, is the relationship between the size of your hands and the size of the holds. I'm large, my wife is medium/small, and my daughter is tiny (<80 lbs.). A 3" round hold may be a crimp for me, a moderate for my wife, and a jug for my daughter. It's the same hold, but because we're different in size, it's relative to our body size.
I, for one, enjoy getting a climb that a smaller person has just sent; likewise, I'm proud of my wife and daughter when they figure out a way to send a route that "caters" to tall people.
When you think about it, there are so many variables in climbing it's amazing that we have a (somewhat) agreed upon rating system.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
