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bitchslabbin
Oct 23, 2007, 6:05 PM
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JohnCook
Oct 23, 2007, 6:14 PM
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Yes!
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sevrdhed
Oct 23, 2007, 6:17 PM
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Nah. Just chuck a gri-gri on her next time you guys go climbing, you'll be fine.
Seriously. Watching someone let go of the rope, I want a little bit of extra security when being belayed by them.
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desertwanderer81
Oct 23, 2007, 6:20 PM
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As long as you're conscious, you should be holding on. If I hear "ROCK!" my very first instinct is to lock off with my belaying hand then moving closer to the rock face covering my head with my free arm.
Seriously, if this is a problem, talk to your partner frankly and let her know your issues.
More than likely she'll agree with you if she is worth climbing with. Or maybe she knew her climber was clipped in to the chains already?
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notch
Oct 23, 2007, 6:22 PM
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Mistakes happen, and I wouldn't be overly concerned if your partner had learned something. It doesn't sound like your partner has learned anything though, so I'd be having a serious discussion before I roped in with that person again. Yeah it's uncomfortable, but then again, so is dying.
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shrug7
Oct 23, 2007, 6:48 PM
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I second the Yes...
Work on your verbal communication.
Concentrate on...OFF BELAY and BELAY OFF and probably a few others wouldn't hurt. FOTH has a good chart of it.
Not that this matters and is a mute point, but did you ask the belay if she saw the climber go in direct or why she let go for that matter?
and... Why can't rocks fall on your when your TopRoping (or sport for that matter)?
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k.l.k
Oct 23, 2007, 6:58 PM
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Your partner has bad instincts. To change her reflexive response in that sort of situation would require a lot of work and training. Even then, I would never really trust her to belay. And it sounds like she has no clue that she needs a lot of re-training.
From your comments, it sounds as if she doesn't understand that her thumb is less important than her partner's life. Personally, I would never climb with her again, and if I knew who she was, I would go out of my way to avoid crags where I knew she might be climbing with other people.
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xtremst80
Oct 23, 2007, 6:58 PM
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I third the yes!
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bitchslabbin
Oct 23, 2007, 6:59 PM
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dallas27
Oct 23, 2007, 7:06 PM
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If the belayer knew the climbers was off belay, I don't see it being a big deal. If she didn't know, you should be having the conversation with her, not us.
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shimanilami
Oct 23, 2007, 7:13 PM
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sevrdhed wrote: Nah. Just chuck a gri-gri on her next time you guys go climbing, you'll be fine. Seriously. Watching someone let go of the rope, I want a little bit of extra security when being belayed by them.
I'll second that.
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chr1s
Oct 23, 2007, 7:15 PM
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bitchslabbin wrote: For the record I did talk to her..asked her what she thought went wrong...the reply I recieved was I let go because my thumb hurt.
I wouldn't climb with her again, period.
In reply to: I think there are a few errors at place here. The climber not warning that gear had fallen. The climber not stating she was secure.
In reply to: The belayer not watching her climber. The belayer not keeping both hands in the break postion. Just too many factors..to be comfortable.
The belayer only needs to keep one hand on the brake. Besides, how the hell did the quickdraw hit her brake hand if it slid down the rope? The guide hand sure, because it's above the device, but the brake hand?
I'll say it again - I wouldn't climb with her.
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reg
Oct 23, 2007, 7:26 PM
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bitchslabbin wrote: I need other peoples opinion here. I was climbing with a friend and one of her family members. She was on belay and her partner was tr ing a route, once she got to the top she dropped a draw that slid down the rope and hit the belayers hand and to my surprise the belayer let go of the rope..Now the climber at the top would have fell probably to her death if she hadn't already secured herself at the chains. But none of us knew that until of course she fell to the point of her daisy.
there are times when it's safe to let go of the control side for a moment or longer. i don't want to go into that now but i will say i fourth or fifth the YES.
also i do not understand why someone top roping needs to daisy off to the chains or have any draws on the rope unless preparing to rap or just finished cleaning the lead (in which case any draws left on the rope would be on the climbers side).
how far did she fall onto her daisy?
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bitchslabbin
Oct 23, 2007, 7:30 PM
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Pretty far.
Thanks guys thats all the info I needed. I could go into more play by play details. But I think I will receive the same outcome. I guess if it bothered me enough to post it on RC.com I guess one less person to climb with gggrrrrr.
peace!
Hope you brought your big girl panties!
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reg
Oct 23, 2007, 7:58 PM
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cracklover wrote: reg wrote: there are times when it's safe to let go of the control side for a moment or longer. i don't want to go into that now but ... Okay, you want an invitation - here it is. I cannot think of any reason to let go of the brake strand, ever. Further, I do not believe that I have let go of the brake strand while belaying with a tube device *ever*, in nine years of climbing. Please explain - when specifically have you or your friends or partners let go of the brake strand "for a moment or longer" that was safe? Thanks, GO
sure cracklover - but you already know them - i was on a small ledge with buckets to hold onto and i agreed to let my belayer let go to take a pic of the scene - 30 seconds. munter/mule belay escape. tied off to an anchor. auto-block on the second (if properly set up you have a munter back). never while someone is climbing or not secure to an anchor.
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thespider
Oct 23, 2007, 8:19 PM
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I usually just step on the rope when I have to free my hands, it works for me!
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JohnCook
Oct 23, 2007, 8:26 PM
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Couple of twists round your leg is better. Needs a free foot as standing on rope does, but avoids grinding the rope into the grit and dirt.
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erclimb
Oct 23, 2007, 8:36 PM
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reg wrote: cracklover wrote: reg wrote: there are times when it's safe to let go of the control side for a moment or longer. i don't want to go into that now but ... Okay, you want an invitation - here it is. I cannot think of any reason to let go of the brake strand, ever. Further, I do not believe that I have let go of the brake strand while belaying with a tube device *ever*, in nine years of climbing. Please explain - when specifically have you or your friends or partners let go of the brake strand "for a moment or longer" that was safe? Thanks, GO sure cracklover - but you already know them - i was on a small ledge with buckets to hold onto and i agreed to let my belayer let go to take a pic of the scene - 30 seconds. munter/mule belay escape. tied off to an anchor. auto-block on the second (if properly set up you have a munter back). never while someone is climbing or not secure to an anchor.
willingly accepting the risk does not mean "it was safe"; it just means you absolved your belayer of most of the guilt...and i'm not sure if i fully understand your post, but if your belayer tied off, then he never released the brake, so you haven't made your point
NEVER release the brake
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cracklover
Oct 23, 2007, 8:41 PM
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reg wrote: GO wrote: Please explain - when specifically have you or your friends or partners let go of the brake strand "for a moment or longer" that was safe? GO i was on a small ledge with buckets to hold onto and i agreed to let my belayer let go to take a pic of the scene - 30 seconds.
Well, that's your choice, if you're the climber. But I've taken plenty of pics with one hand, or holding the camera while still holding the rope.
In reply to: munter/mule belay escape. tied off to an anchor. auto-block on the second (if properly set up you have a munter back).
I would not consider a mule-knot, or tying off the brake strand to be "letting go", unless you let go of the brake strand at some point before you finish. As for belaying someone up on a true auto-block device - that's a fair example, but obviously not what we were talking about, since this isn't a true friction-induced belay mode relying on force-multiplication to stop the climber's fall.
Thanks for the clarification,
GO
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reg
Oct 24, 2007, 12:04 PM
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after thinkin about what i said - i'd like to take it back - what a dangerous thing to say! someone with little expeirence could have read that and mis-interpreted what i didn't say - very well.
appoligies to the board.
thanks gabe for makin me think about it.
as you were.
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